Fellow brethren I have a brake shake issue

Hey guys recently it was time to change my brakes. I was feeling a little shake and hearing some squeaking. I used to have my car up in the snowy climates so I decided to change everything and get it looking more presentable. I changed the rotors (to a drilled and slotted) , pads, calipers, rear drums and shoes. My pedal was still soft after bleeding so I took it over to my local mechanic and he bled it for and fixed the pedal softness for cheap. Here's where my problem comes in, I am having a shake in my brakes as I step down on the pedal. It gets worse as I push harder and it seems to be on the front right. The mechanic said he felt it and said it could be that the new rotor isn't true, or that my hub could be warped... What are my brethren's thoughts on this? Thanks for your help!

 

Did you also change pins and associated hardware along with pads/rotors & shoes/drums?

Pull the rotor and take it to your local shop that can turn rotors. They will be able to tell you if it is warped. Normally I would swap front rotors but because your fancy with your drilled and slotted...

Did mr mechanic just bleed the brakes? Does your truck have abs? 99 was the last year of optional manual hubs w/ no abs, with abs you could also suspect that. I have had a abs tone ring give me some grief a long time ago.

ALSO, check everything else suspension related. It may be that you corrected one issue and now another is more apparent. Think ball joints, tierods, bushings, etc etc

 

Try bedding them in:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...-theory-definitions-and-procedures/bed-in-faq

You might want to make sure the pistons aren't sticking. What calipers did you go with? I've heard people have issues with reman'd calipers being reamed out and not holding pressure.

 

I did change all the pins and springs and so forth. I figured if I was going to do something I would do everything. I think I have abs. How would I know... I do know that I have a bad cv/ half shaft on the front left but I'm waiting for my suspension kit from all pro to come in so that when I pull it apart I can change everything.

 

Any of the wheels will have a wire running to the hub area with a sensor, and the passenger side of engine bay near firewall will have a box taking up way to much room with a bunch of brake lines running out of it.

The bad cv sucks, but unless its REAL bad I wouldn't be to concerned with it. They are a 15 minute job to replace so just do it already

I would be more concerned about the other suspension parts i mentioned. Jack up the corner and shake the wheel around. look for a clunk or play.

 

is it pulling to one side or the other?

 

Not really. Just shaking on the rt front when I hit the brakes

 

It's possible you got a bad rotor. Does it feel smooth / level / flat when running your fingers on a flat surface from the center to the outside or are there steps as you do this? You'll know if you have ABS because a wire will be running to your brake caliper / wheel hub. Any more info since last time?

 

Haven't gotten to hit it again for the last couple days cause I have been working. I'll probably pull it apart on Sunday or Monday and take in the rotor to see if it's true. The brakes do work tho cause some ignoramus pulled out right in front of me and I was able to mashem' down and swerve around him. I do appreciate all your guy's help. I don't think I have abs though because the only thing coming off my caliper is my break line.

 

The wires wont come from caliper it will come off of rhe knuckle.

 

All right guys I took off the tire and rotor and had it checked... Totally true. So I guess I will further investigate shake when I'm putting on my new suspension from all pro

 

Did you bed the new brake pads in correctly?
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

 

I was extremely careful when bedding my power stop pads/rotors. If done wrong, the pads can imprint on the rotors, which may account for a shimmy, and even worse is the squealing while braking.

 

My son is reporting a shake while braking in his 4Runner. I found a slightly loose caliper bolt.

Is this the first time you've had drilled and slotted rotors? In my limited experience, they can feel different, particularly under hard braking. My wife's minivan is now track-ready with drilled and slotted rotors and it sort of buzzes when braking hard.

 

I just recently changed my original roters to powerstop drilled and slotted also within the last few weeks . My question is did you break in the rotors properly when you initially put them on and taking it out for a test drive right after you did the install. They suggest breaking from 45 to 15 hard 5 times then right after that they suggest breaking from 35 to 15 moderately 5 times then driving around for 5 minutes and allowing the rotors to cool down. I have heard when you don't do this they have been known to get a shimmy in the front end . I did break in properly and have had no problems since insulation .

 

I like that milk crate to hold the caliper. Better than the way I tie it up to keep stress off the brake line. But, tell me you're not working under that truck with just the jack holding it up.

 

Lol no I had the truck up on jack stands also and the floor jack was a secondary safety. You could also use a 5 gallon bucket and turn it upside down to rest the calipers on. Makes it so much easier to reduce strain on the line

 

painted my TRD rims black and with the slotted and drilled rotors the combination looks really good

 

To be honest I didn't know about the bedding process when I put on the rotors. There werent any instructions in my kit that i saw. I'm not used to having to do. I will have to try to do that this weekend. Hopefully it hasn't ruined anything.