AZ BS Thread 4²0

Hey BB

 

Can that sensor fail without throwing a code?

 

I use camelback and they're great. Mention you're w/ TW and @gunny1005 will give you a parts discount even on dealer performed service. That's where I got the wife GX serviced.

 

MAF's are notorious for getting wacky without throwing a code, across all makes and models.

See, if the MAF outright breaks the voltage will read 0, then you will get a CEL. That's not what usually happens though.

If the MAF is still reporting any voltage there isn't really a good way for the ECU to "authenticate" the results. As such it can think there is much more air coming through the intake then there actually is.

Syptoms would be running rich as hell, decreased power and low MPG...

Is your tailpipe all gross and black-sooty, more so than the usual?

Don't want to sound like a dickhead but often times what people clean when they "clean their MAF" is actually the integrated temp probe on the MAF and not the airflow meter probe itself (at least this is the case with certain makes & models). Can you post a pic of it?

 

@Aw9d

When you put a oscilloscope on a vehicle, is there a way to use that same method on a building? My church is growing and will soon be in a building. Ill have a fair amount of wiring and testing to do, but didnt know if that would streamline the process of locating resonant and offensive frequencies

 

Yes you can plug it into any electrical socket, or anything that moves power and get readings from it. I don't know if it would help you out or not. I don't know much about electrical in buildings. I do use it to test my outlets in my house from time to time.

 

OK so you're not using it for harmonics, you're looking for frequencies coming through on the power side of things. Gotcha

 

Looks like this:

I used MAF cleaner, cleaned every part I could get to. Damn near went through a new can of it. I haven't had time to read up on testing it but we are just going to order it one from Toyota. Worth a shot, if it doesn't fix it box it up and keep it for later.

 

What do you wanna do man? I only get 13 mpg myself use to get 17mpg. I replaced my air intake filter and that helped a lot with throttle response, but I still am only getting 13.7 mpg. Was gonna do spark plugs and oil change etc this weekend in hopes of getting some MPG back

 

She ordered a new one from Toyota and it will be here tomorrow. $130 it's worth a shot and so far everything is pointing to that. I just figured it would throw a CEL when it took a shit.

 

Gotcha, OK. Yeah give swapping out a new one a try, 'cause it doesn't look like the MAF's I'm used to seeing.

Like I said, I didn't want to come off as a smartass but a lot of MAF sensors look like this:


And people see that obvious bulb and clean the piss out of it, but that's the temp probe. The MAF wires are actually inside the body, up a hole:


They don't look up in there and fail to zap that with some cleaner, and think "well heck, I guess it wasn't the MAF" when it actually was the problem all along.

 

She's got the V8 4.7 and it's totally different than what the Tacoma's have. Looks exactly like the one I pictured which was taken from Autozone's site.

 

Are there any electrical people that can look at a clothes washer for me? My sister is having issues with her washer. She said that every time pushes a button to make a selection, it selects something else. After a minute of pushing buttons it finally gets to the right setting she wants. It's a GE Adora and about 11 yrs old.

 

And sticking mt in the rear was short lived. Ordered up rear LT today. So anyone interested in any of my rear mt setup pm me.

BAMF relocation
12" 2.0 remote resi kings
Sos concepts shackle flip with adjustable/ longer shackles
Extended brake lines
Ubolt flip kit
Allpro standard leaf springs

 

The perfectionist in me was screaming today as I painted up the leftover bed extender holes and bed channel reinforcements. There's just no way to get at those holes without spraying danger close and getting insta-runs. If you held it at a reasonable distance you'd be throwing overspray all over the body.

I know it doesn't have to be pretty, just covered.


(The really rusty spots here were actually flakes from the dealer drilling, not actual body rust)

It ain't pretty, but it works.
Thanks again to @phx13 for the install help, by the way!

Anyone have a good idea of what to use to fill those 2 exposed bed extender holes, by the way? Like a little rubber plug to shove in there or something?

 

Tack em closed with a welder, flap wheel them close to smooth, then hit them with a da sander and some paint.

Like they were never there.

 

Get a new one. Most warranties are only 5 years and they are made to be disposable. The switch is probably going out but they're a pain to replace as something that old will be a pain to chase parts for IF that is the only issue. Thats a good run of 11yrs.

So much want, so little money. If only those damn cheat codes would work

 

You got 6-8 weeks until it is off my truck since that's the time frame I was given for my LT kit to get here. Save up and if no one else has claimed it, it could be yours

 

That was exactly what I was thinking, but I don't have a welder. So I was wondering if there was any convenient way to plug them otherwise. Maybe I'll swing by an ace hardware or something.

The other hyper-fiddly option I was thinking would be to drill thru the bed brace for that 3rd extender mount hole that's now covered, then mount the bed extender mounts on spacers, then take my bed extender and trim the 1/2" or so on a side off the tubes, reassemble, and have both. Probably wouldn't have the right clearances on the tie-downs though.