2006 Manual 4x4 with the famous Throw Out Bearing Squeel!!!

By under power do you mean in gear and moving or just reving?

 

After the rebuild, the chirping only appears any time I have the pedal about 50% depressed (so you hear it really quickly every time I move the pedal when shifting) and when in gear and driving along randomly between 1900-2500ish rpm. The chirp is most apparent when your slipping the clutch a bit like you would when your trying to start from a stop going uphill like I hear it every time I pull into my garage as I have a steep driveway and have to feather the clutch quite a bit to enter without ramming through the wall on the way in.

 

sounds like your bearing is trying to go bad. if its the normal chirp issue it would go away when the clutch is disengaged (pressing clutch pedal). That's one of the first things to diagnose it. Honestly thought in any case my thing is if i know the quill isn't going to snap off (sleeve kit) and my bearing is good, if the slave rebuild doesn't solve it then i don't think i can justify tearing the trans back out and cutting the quill off just because of a noise. I have very seriously considered it for about 5 minutes.

 

Yeah I'm in the same boat with the noise... it might sound crazy to pull the trans just for a noise but damn after you wheel with it for a whole day its enough to drive someone insane. To be more specific about my earlier comment the noise completely goes away when I fully push in the pedal. Its only when its pushed in partially like from 1/4 to 1/2 way that it makes the chirp noise briefly- after that it quiets up.

 

Where in Oregon do you reside?

 

Corvallis. You?

 

Yea I know what ya mean. Hopefully the sleeve does the trick for you. I would recommend also changing the fork and pivot ball while you're in there. The OEM fork is a bit pricey from what I remember but if I could go back I would definitely change mine. That also may help your mid-engage noise. Though yours may have it already, they changed the angle on the fork. Just a thought.

 

I'm in St. Helens, the reason I ask is I have one extra custom spring I had made for the slave cylinder that will provide a little more pressure then even the TSB slave. Let me know if you still have the chirp after your other work. One other cheap part I'd replace while you have the transmission out is the pivot stud-ball for the fork the TSB one is slightly taller which will also add a little more pressure on the release bearing.

 

Not sure if that last part was to me or @azzwethinkweiz but I've already done my clutch job.

 

Sorry my response was to delayed

Sorry I just caught that and you already noticed the other changes.

 

I've found an updated part number for the fork pivot (PN 31236-35050) but as for the fork itself I'm coming up with nothing that appears to be new or revised. Might have to go into Toyota and ask around and see whether my truck might've came with the updated parts or not.

 

No worries. Im pretty sure the SC rebuild will do it for me. if not screw it lol its no where near as bad as before.

 

Yea I would definitely check. Those TSB's are hard to track down sometimes.

 

I don't believe there is an updated fork, but if there is any wear on your fork at the pivot point where it contacts the ball stud you'll want to replace it.

 

Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind since I'm getting like a 50/50 split on whether they made an updated fork or not.

 

The info that I read talked about a new fork but now that @Jason J mentions it they may just have been mistaking the longer ball stud for angle of the fork. Because a longer one would indeed change the "angle of attack" so to speak. But thats what caused/causes the premature failure of the bearings in the first place was side-loading of the bearing from the fork.

 

The fork number I came up with is 31204-35060 for

$90 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma With 4L Right Petrol intake air snorkel kit high performance system compatible kit Replacement black Rotational Molding (2005-2015)

2005-2015 if needed, good luck!

 

Can you upgrade the SC rod or do you have to buy a new cylinder to house it?

 

The new rod comes with the slave rebuilt kit and it all fits in the old slave cylinder housing. Don't think the housings changed at all, just the internals.

 

I just bought the slave rebuild kit from Toyota and it didn't come with the rod. I thought it did too because that would only make sense.