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Image Dynamics CTX65CS under HU power

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by korny351, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. Mar 20, 2010 at 10:19 AM
    #1
    korny351

    korny351 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just installed a JVC Arsenal KD-AH69 HU in my '07 DoubleCab. Really like the sound, especially in HD radio. Now it's time to think of speakers to bring out the true potential. I'm looking at the Image Dynamics CTX65CS in the front. Due to budget, I need to upgrade bit by bit. My head unit is rated at 20 watts RMS. Will this power the ID components acceptably for now or will I need to amp them right away. There is an amp in the future, but not right now. My music preference is classic rock. Can't really see a sub. Any input is greatly appreciated.




     
  2. Mar 20, 2010 at 5:58 PM
    #2
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    :quickdraw: (UPDATED) I just installed the CTX65CS and they work great. I had a problem with the Amp. The default settings are whatever the factory person decided to leave them at, not what you would think. A flip of a filter switch and all is great. They sound pretty good.

    If you plan to add a sub and amp to this HU, I ended up feeding the rear speakers to the sub input this way if the sub level needs adjusting I need only adjust Front/Rear level from the HU vice just reducing the Bass level which will affect the fronts as well. And the HU has a bass boost built in for low volume levels, not flat. This will probably lead to me buying another HU in the upcoming months but I will give it that long just to see how I like it.

    Something else I've read recently was the passive crossover is not very good and an active crossover is much better. I cannot realy speak to this but you should search these forums for results using these speakers. My passive crossover is working well.

    One other route to take would be Mr Marv. He is a more hands on person and likes you to call him. He's a low pressure guy and will lend a helping hand and give sound advice.

    -Joe
     
  3. Mar 20, 2010 at 6:11 PM
    #3
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao Well-Known Member

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    A lift, some wheels, some tires, some performance, some cosmetic and then audio.
    It will power them but to the fullest, NO.
     
  4. Mar 20, 2010 at 8:12 PM
    #4
    glandnut

    glandnut Reserve Squirrel Hair

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    secret stuff.
    Yeah, I would double check that the polarity didn't accidentally get flipped, especially because you said the lows were lacking.
     
  5. Mar 20, 2010 at 8:27 PM
    #5
    mgrande

    mgrande iKill

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    I have ID's front and back. stock HU with a 1000 watt amp. I had it all installed though because I really know nothing about this stuff. The ones I have in front aren't the component set, they're the two way's just like the ones I have in the back and I love the way they sound.
     
  6. Mar 21, 2010 at 7:55 AM
    #6
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    Just updated my posting. Error on the Amp, my fault for thinking in the first place.
     
  7. Mar 21, 2010 at 11:43 AM
    #7
    tunedx

    tunedx Well-Known Member

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    Whats the difference between active and passive crossover?
     
  8. Mar 21, 2010 at 3:36 PM
    #8
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    Passive has no electronics like amplification and is usually reduced to only one or two crossover points. Active is more like a graphic equilizer, it has a larger amount of control. Or that is the way I understand it. I'm fine with my passive crossover but there are others on TW that say Active is better, and I'm sure it is but it could be depending on what you want to spend and how critical the sound is to you. It's just something Korny351 might want to look at before dropping a dime into the project.
     
  9. Mar 21, 2010 at 8:57 PM
    #9
    korny351

    korny351 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Project put on hold for a while. Garage door committed suicide the other night. Need to divert funds for a new one. From what I've gathered here and on some other forums, it would be best to amp the DI's right from the start. Will probably hold off till there are funds for the whole project. Researching amps I've run across several favorable reviews for MB Quart Discus 4125. Anyone had experience with this unit? 4 channel x125W for under $160 is pretty tempting.
     
  10. Mar 22, 2010 at 8:08 AM
    #10
    phd12volt

    phd12volt Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, you would be fine with a 50x4 amp for the ID stuff. They tend to be more efficient than alot of drop in replacement stuff. ( i used to work for them, and was on the SQ team for them for a long time). Look around for a TMA 4 channel if you get a chance. Also i strictly use ARC amplifiers. I have for some time, and will continue to do so. I have never had issues with their amps, and i have tried a lot of different ones.
     
  11. Mar 23, 2010 at 3:51 PM
    #11
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    If you can find an amp that accepts high level inputs and fits where you desire, and 50+ watts is actually enough, that would be a good thing. When you are planning this just search the forums for the amplifier you're thinking about and post a question if you can't find enough info. People here are quick to offer advice, usualy first hand experience.
     
  12. Mar 23, 2010 at 4:53 PM
    #12
    C17Guy

    C17Guy Well-Known Member

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  13. Mar 24, 2010 at 3:26 AM
    #13
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    That is a 2 channel amp. So far I thought we were talking a 4 channel in this thread. But if you only wanted to power one pair of speakers, that looks like a nice Amp but I cannot speak from personal experience.
     
  14. Mar 24, 2010 at 7:02 AM
    #14
    phd12volt

    phd12volt Well-Known Member

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    You could use that Pioneer amp, however you would need to run all 4 to it, which will make the amp see a 2 ohm load, while your left and right would be okay, you would lose the fading capability.
     
  15. Mar 24, 2010 at 11:34 AM
    #15
    korny351

    korny351 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to sound like I'm waffling on the subject, but I guess I am. Found a local dealer blowing out the ID's for $125. Couldn't pass it up. Will try them on HU power first and then make a decision on the amp. As for the amp, I am looking at 4 channel units as I am planning on upgrading the rears to the ID co-axials. But that's another issue.

    Jason, thanks for your input about amplifier rating requirements. Money's kinda tight right now and anything that will bring this project cost down is really appreciated.
     
  16. Mar 24, 2010 at 12:36 PM
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    phd12volt

    phd12volt Well-Known Member

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  17. Feb 24, 2012 at 7:46 AM
    #17
    Monkey Boy

    Monkey Boy Member

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    This question is for phd12volt concerning amps.

    I have a new 2012 Access cab (no rear door speakers and lame headliner rear speakers) and was thinking about ordering the ID CTX65 bundle from *********. I like the functionality of the stock headunit but definitely not the current sound. I only plan on adding the component front speakers and no rear speakers. I would like to keep the option open to add a sub in the future. Therefore, given your recommendation on the ARC amps, after looking at there products I am still not sure which amp would be the best choice to get started. Can you please suggest the appropriate size and model (or an alternative)?

    p.s. - Since I plan to add an amp, would the existing factory headunit work or should I upgrade this as well?
     
  18. Feb 24, 2012 at 8:50 AM
    #18
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor Well-Known Member

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    This thread is two years old, but I can help. You will get wildly varying answers on this, all contain some truth.

    In the end, a good source is very important, however in a car (truck) I just don't think you will see such a significant difference that you won't be happy with the stock head unit. Add an amp and upgrade your front door speakers. Look into sealing the doors as well and you will end up with something that sounds very good.

    As far as amps. The 5 channel class-D amps are VERY flexible. As your needs/desires change they can work with you. I currently have the Alpine MRX-V60 with the channels 1-4 bridged to my front mids, and the sub channel powering my sub.

    If you don't want to spend that much, any well known manufacturer (ARC included) will make a reasonably good product, and you will not be able to tell the difference in sound (assuming reasonably similar power output.)

    I would look for an amp that #1 fits your budget and #2 exceeds your chosen speakers RMS rating by 10%+. This will allow you to feed a clean signal to your speakers, ensuring they will give you years of service. Don't overspend on the amp, overspend on the speakers.

     
  19. Feb 24, 2012 at 8:55 AM
    #19
    JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

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    You can make the original HU work however there are two issues that come to mind:
    1) Remote power on to the AMP. You can wire that any way you like but there is a connection coming out of the HU you can use if you find a plug that has the additional wire in it. It's not popular for sure.
    2) The stock HU has a Bass Boost in the lower volume levels to which you cannot defeat. This means constant adjustments.

    As for the CSX-65, I placed those in the rear doors on my truck and they sound very good.

    EDIT: I used an Alpine PDX-5 amp and love it. Small size, powerful, and can run everything. You don't need to run the 5th channel for the sub at all but if you ever want to add a sub, you already have the amp standing by.
     
  20. Feb 24, 2012 at 11:32 AM
    #20
    Monkey Boy

    Monkey Boy Member

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    Thank you 'XJBaylor' and 'JoeSchmuck'!

    Joe, can you elaborate on wiring an amp to the stock HU? I don't have much experience installing car audio systems. It sounds like I have basically two options for adding an amp to the stock HU:
    1. Remote power the amp
    2. Try to figure out how to wire the HU power to the remote amp. Any ideas on this one?

    From you humble experience, which route would you go?

    Do you think a new/better hu would be the best option or is it worth the extra $ given its a small truck interior and I'm not looking to go nuts on the system?

    Thanks...
     

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