Dynamat - What is it? Do I need it? How do I install it properly?

Wow ... Thanks this is awesome. Never thought of searching a Tundra thread.

 

So quick question? Those of you who took your interior apart?

What is the proper procedure to disarm the airbag system so it does not go off when dismantling the interior? Did you disconnect the negative cable from the battery and wait 10 minutes? Did anyone record the disassembly of the interior or take step by step pictures?

 

I saw that years ago when I had my Tundra in 2010. Been through a couple vehicles since then! Lol

 

You're suppose to disconnect the battery cable, but I ended up not disconnecting anything.
As for disassembly, the seats are pretty easy to remove only issue I had was unbolting the center support for the seats, the back plastics panel gets in the way of the bolts. Trying to remove the back panel first is a little difficult, pretty tight fit. I recommend taking the back left passenger panel off first (3 screws) and angling the seat at a 45 degree angle to get it out. If you try to remove the whole back panel at one, like I did, you'll end up breaking some clips on the right passenger portion.
The other piece of advice is for when you're removing the cover over the pillars. Each pillar cover has two tabs that go under the weather strip. You can see it if you pry the strip back a bit and look in with a flashlight. In the area where they are just pull the strip back a bit so it clears it coming off. Besides that all panels have your typical clips that are pretty sturdy and won't break when you pull the panels off. Just make sure to pull straight out and not at an agile that could break them.
I went as far back as the center console, there's already some padding in the front and I didn't want to take the center console apart so I stopped there. It seemed weird to me, if your going to pad the front why wouldn't Toyota just add padding to the rear too.
Hope this helps, if you have more questions feel free to ask?

 

^^^^ what Alex said on the weather stripping around the pillars (especially the B or center posts between the doors). Just start peeling it up from the bottom on either side of the pillar, it's not glued or anything, and it will allow you all kinds of wiggle room to pull the pillar covers off. Work from the bottom up. Also, the white tabs that slide into slots on the panel and snap into the pillar are going to pop out of the slides and stay in the pillar. Take them out of the pillar and put them back in the panel slots before you reinstall it. Other than that, 90% of the plastic in these trucks snaps into place and can be removed without tools. Considering the sound deadening myself after doing the interior LEDs this week. Post pics!

 

You don't need a ton of money to do this. So many people use the high dollar dynamat, gtmat is what I used on my Subaru Crosstrek. GM came up with it and you can get at a very reasonable price. You use it to take the tinney sheet metal sound out of the steel panels and stick it in a checkerboard pattern, not wallpaper it. Areas of the truck like doors, roof, and fenders that have a tinny sound needs fatmat. The floor is rigid so you wouldn't use gtmat their, that's where you would use Jute padding it's cheap, the auto industry has been using it for years. Jute padding is used to absorb noise you would put it in the floor under the carpet, and behind the door panels. I've gone as far as sticking it up under the dash, anywhere there's a cavity. There's a black foam gym mat people use at the gym, it's excellent for soundproofing and it's waterproof! They also use it for insulating water pipes, a/c lines, pretty cheap that can be used inside fender wells. That's where most of your road noise going to come from! http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/subaru-xv-diy-how-tos-tsb/29314-fender-sound-proofing.html

 

Eh, just be careful installing foams and stuff in your car that haven't been specifically marketed for that application. At a minimum I'd recommend checking the MSDS for that particular foam and ensure it isn't going to off-gas some nasty chemicals you'd be inhaling in your small enclosed car cabin. I might just be overly cautious though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

You'll have no problems just as long you stay away from things like http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_1z0uk2m__?productId=1018733&pl=1 it's tar like roofing patch material. When you use it inside a car or cab of a truck it gives off toxic fumes. If you use a little bit of it you can't smell it, but if you use it like some people do like wallpaper. As it gets warm with the windows rolled up, you'll get a strong toxic order. Guys end up tearing it out of their cars. Again it's not to be used in cars only on a house roof. That's why gtmat and dynamat are a little higher in price it's not toxic.

 

Anyone ever tried this as an alternative to dynamat? I'm looking into sound proofing

 

Before you throw money at your truck there's two different materials. Sound deadening like gtmat and sound absorbing material like jute padding. I've used both and their very reasonable in price. Gtmat like dynamat has a sticky rubber surface with foil on the backing to absorb any tinny sound that the outside skin of the truck makes. Jute padding used between the door panel and vapor barrier. Both are reasonably priced. http://gtsoundcontrol.com/shop/GTMat-Videos.html

 

Whoever thinks these (2016) trucks are quite, YOU ARE DEAF. My stock extended cab 1996 S-10 was much more quite than my new access cab.
I love my truck, but the noisy cab is a huge let down. I will be insulating once the snow melts. I will post pictures too.

 

I'm not interested in dynamat, however I'm very interested in the things you've listed that you'll be installing. If you're starting a separate thread for these installs, please post it here, OR lots of pictures of all this equipment going into your truck

 

This Friday I have a Toyota rep that will be checking out my door rattle from my JBL speakers. My driver side window controls rattle like no other with just 30 volume and the right song. They have replaced the controls and even put foam in the door panel and in the controls (which helped a ton, but made it that the LED lights for the controls did not show, so it was worthless).

I do find that holding the controls with my hand stops the rattle and leaning my leg on the door panel (not hard just resting it there) gets rid of the rattle. I think they just need to add another anchor point at that part of panel to the door and it would fix it....

 

I apologize for bumping an old thread but curious to what the final result was with the rep? I’m doing research on adding a sound dampener with the hopes that I’ll remedy this exact same concern.

 

If there was an easy way, i'd do the roof but taking down the headliner can't possibly be easy as I'm sure during assembly they slide it in through the front windshield opening.

 

While it is a little more challenging than the door panels and floor it is still quite doable. Check out the following links from @GHOST SHIP and @TSki. The third link is to the shop manual.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-sound-deadening.394469/page-11#post-15504290
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-your-headliner-and-insulating-sound-deadening.394469/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trim-removal-how-to-solved.470055/page-8#post-15651284

My only setback was a spring clip from one of the rear grab handles that decided to pop out after I had just finished reinstalling the headliner. I had to take down the headliner again to retrieve the clip and reinstall the headliner a second time. The first picture shows the headliner down while the second picture shows the dynamat installed and the third picture shows the closed cell foam insullation installed. Florida summers can get pretty hot and it is a lot cooler now.

 

damn that's impressive

 

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. The floor ended up taking more time for me. And I just dropped it in place, let it rest on the seats, and worked above/around it.

 

I'm a fan of adding sound deadening. Especially when you close the doors. Sounds more like a Lexus. Find someone with dynamat in their doors and roof and knock on it. Big difference. My buddy just did the doors on his 5 lug 2nd gen. Sounds solid.
Way back, I did the entire interior of my lowered Mazda5 minivan thing. Made quite a difference.

 

Which brand of closed cell foam insulation?