Toyota: Why pay for resale value if you never intend to re-sell? (yes, I changed the title)

The reason he has problems with that stuff is because he lifts his truck and puts a ton of aftermarket brodoser shit on it. Which everyone knows it doesnt matter what kind of truck you have, when you do all those mods it makes maintenance much more frequent.

 

Bro, this shit cracked me up.

 

I know man, the scooter lady had me on the floor dying.

 

I know many guys clearly accepted the "fuck it man" mentality, but to send a stock truck that far without reinforcement would just scare the shit out of me.

Lets hope their wrecks atleast scored some ass.

 

Lol, I had an old friend in high school that did not give a single fuck about his volvo hatchback ( or something like that kind of car ), and we used to all get in the car( about 5 of us ) and he would take it onto a local motorcycle track and fly through woops and hit little jumps haha. The funniest part was. It never broke down and he would drive us home at the end of the day.

 

Dude...sounds like you guys missed out on the glory of well-deserved ass.

 

So every lifted truck is a brodozer? That doesn't make sense to me. I thought brodozing was when you used your truck to get an image instead of using it in the bush. 3" of lift and armor is a bare minimum requirement for even the FSRs here. I enjoy my truck off road and I agree that will mean more maintenance but a Frontier for example doesn't have the same issues. The weak points I mentioned come up on stock trucks as well, just over a longer interval.

 

Really? Can you not let things go buddy lol. I thought you didn't need to use insults yet just this morning you've already used two different derogatory terms to try and troll me.

BTW I'm actually a P Ag. I love and live in a small town where I spend most of my time in the fields within 300 miles of here. None of the terms you've tried to label me with stick lol.

 

Not sure how those pieces of the radiator cap could migrate from the upper radiator tank to the lower tank. There aren't any passages between them that are large enough, unless they are broken apart. I suspect those missing pieces are still bouncing around in the upper tank but may be tricky to get out without removing the radiator.

 

AWWW!!! But we made it 25 pages on no substance!!! Don't give up now!!!

The dealership today wanted 26 k for a 2013 double cab 4X4 with 76k miles on it.... I was guessing their ridiculous price would be 25... They even exceed absurdity with further absurdity.

 

Could pieces of broken water pump impeller be blocking stuff in my upper radiator tank, which is why I keep getting random overheating that resolves with engine revving?

 

Water pump turns at the speed of the motor. When things overheat you have to balance water pump speed with engine speed because more engine speed means more ignition cycles and therefore more heat. When wheeling you have motor heat and such low speeds there is no air movement through the rad except for the fan. You need the motor to spin the pump and the rad to have enough air movement to convert the water heat to air and then away from the rad.

Considering it is an older truck I would flush the rad / cooling system. Unless you have motor mods that are increasing the heat output of the motor the rad should keep up in most scenarios. I have seen too many older cooling systems that are simply plugged. I had an older tractor that overheated when plowing snow in 0 deg F weather. Rad looked clean right under the rad cap but was 80% plugged. When I removed the rad hoses I filled the rad with a garden hose and watched how much came out the lower hose mount. It was clear the rad was plugged by how much flowed out the bottom compared to what went in the top. Ran CLR (calcium lime rust remover) through the rad and after a few hours I rinsed it out. Chunks of crap came out. Never overheated ever again.

If your impeller fails it usually just falls off the shaft or the bearings go resulting in a leak from the weep hole.

 

it isn't overheating at low speeds or high RPM's, it's overheating at low RPM's on the highway when driving at steady RPM's for long distance. I just replace radiator, water pump, thermostat etc... and tested the thermostat prior to putting it in. Weird eh? Revving the engine actually cools it down. (oh, and replaced temp sensor too and that is working).

No clue at this point.

 

Picking up a new to me 2007 Access Cab in a couple days. Located in Canada, but in US dollars, it cost me $6200 for this clean 2WD SR5 truck with 100k on it. For the money i spent, i plan to keep it, a long long time. Cheap to drive, so glad i got rid of my old truck, a big gas guzzler that cost me $400 month ugh.

 

With rad, pump and thermostat changed I would be replacing the rad cap. The rad cap allows the system to be pressurized. Pressurized systems have a higher boiling point. If the cap isn't holding proper pressure the coolant will boil at a lower temperature and can result in overheating.

 

Damn good deal. Pics?

 

At what point do you either build a rock bouncer or a gnarly rzr1000?

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/deetzcrx/IMG_0692_zpse3ywm3h2.jpg

 

This is not necessarily true. More RPMs obviously means more ignition cycles. But for an engine to generate high heat requires a load / burning more fuel. Yes an engine will still overheat without adequate airflow across the radiator. But the truth is, an engine will generate more heat under high load at moderate RPMs, than it would at higher RPMs with a light load. So it's not simply about RPM. Although in the context of wheeling, there is almost always a good load on the engine.

There is a local hill that I climb at least once per week and in 5th gear (higher RPMs, less load) my car will stay around 196F. Going up the same hill in 6th gear (lower RPMs, higher load) it will run 203-204F.

This higher temp is not only because of the higher engine load in 6th gear, but also >because the water pump is turning slower< so I agree with you on this part about the water pump