Long Travel BS Thread

Maybe a stupid question here.

I'm pulling the trigger on a set of camburg UCAs this week. I have OME right now but going to swap out for extended coil overs (which i should've done right out of the gate).

The question is, would the ext COs and UCA work with the LT lower arms down the line?

 

No

 

Nope...completely different widths. OEM UCAs are stock length...a Camburg kit is stock length PLUS 3.5 inches wider. Typically, nothing OEM will be compatible with LT stuff. Different geo sizing altogether. If you want to go LT, save your money and just do it first time out.

 

@Coot83 is right.
If you're going long travel just save and go all in. unless you're independently wealthy.

 

Can you sneak that CV past the bump can?

 

Everything fits and clears nicely

 

Looks good. What did you use to attach the bedside to the small piece of sheet metal after cutting the spot welds?

I picked up rivnuts, but haven't done the install yet.

 

There are no spot welds on a second gen bedsides amigo, the bedsides come off 100% by just removing bolts.

 

Yep...feel free to check my sig. I just made a write up on the bedside removal.

 

Top part of the bed where the bed rail is located has nuts on the inside of the bed itself. The rest require nuts to be added.

 

Well then McNeil sent me bedsides missing a whole lot of fiberglass...That's the front edge that lines up with the cab. I was expecting the whole piece that wraps back in toward the bed and then assumed this is how McNeil makes them once I received these.

 

i had to make mounts for the bottoms of my fenders. I guess McNeil figured we wanted to flap around like a damn bird while we drove.

 

last set of McNeil bed sides I saw were the exact same way. Only mcniel glass I've seen that fit great was their plus 2 glass

 

I drilled holes in the top of the composite, then I used metal tabs (they came with the hardware I got from kartek), they are essentially a 4 inch piece of metal. Bolted the front portion to the composite, then the other portion to the flat top of the bedside. I think I did one or maybe two of those. Then 2 bedside supports welded on from the frame to the bottom corners of the fiberglass. One support runs to the lowest corner of the bedside closest to the cab. The other from the furthest back and lowest corner of the bedside (basically the point closest to the ground by the taillight). I have pics in my build thread, mounted them very simply.

 

I can't bolt the front portion to the composite. All McNeil molded was a 1" lip along the front edge. I have to cut my steel to get these to work.
I'm about to remove my bed. I'll take pictures to illustrate.

 

I actually just picked up a chop saw finally and was planning on taking something like 1" tube to weld to the frame and then some flat tabs at the end to brace the glass instead of the stock braces. My braces near the cab are so flimsy I can easily bend them by hand to move the glass around so it flaps a bit. The ones behind the wheel I just couldn't get to fit so my glass starts flapping at high speed for sure

 

You don't need to bolt the front portion that wraps around the bed, I bolted jus the top where the flat top of your bedside is. Unless you're saying there is no flat top?

 

I agree man they def didnt send you the right stuff. There should of been a sort of triangular tip that extends towards the inner portion of the bedside. I would get in communication with McNeil ASAP, you are missing some shit.

 

I believe his is a flat top as it is sitting fine in a flat orientation upside down. This is true though, you arnt missing much on the front end side, but it would eliminate the ability to bolt down the front side of the bedsides like the stock ones do with their 5 bolts in between the cab.