Toyota recalling 228,000 Tacoma's due to oil leaks and possible loss of control of vehicle

Which dealership did you take it into?

 

And unfortunately, you're still paying your monthly payments without the vehicle you're actually paying for. Your replacement vehicle is nowhere the equivalent to what you actually use your truck for. At least in my case.

 

AutoNation Toyota in Leesburg, VA

 

So far my new differential with a date code of 3/27/2017 is quiet. My old differential had a date code of 1/18/2016. The old one was seeping and howling. After getting used to the howl from the old one, it almost seems odd that this one is quiet. Hope it stays that way. It would be nice to know if they made a change or not or is the part exactly the same as the old. It would also be nice to know if the Master Tech did something different than the production assembly when installing the differential.

 

Exactly. Not happy at all. Even if they gave me a Tacoma/Tundra for the loaner it's still not the truck I am paying for. I love the way the truck looks but between this recall and the transmission issues I've been pretty disappointed with the overall experience.

 

Ive dealt with them for the past 2 and a half months. They tell you to contact them if you have any questions or concerns. Everytime you try to contact your assigned case manager, they are never available. Whoever picks up the phone will put you on hold so they can read about your case and figure out who your case manager is. Then they will put you on hold while they try to "reach" your case manager. They will come back and say "your case manager is not able to take your call or is not available at the moment" and "I will send a message or note for your case manager to contact you". DO NOT wait for a call on the same day. It will NOT happen!

My last call to them was yesterday. Upon receiving the call my case manager sounded very cheerful because she thought my truck was done and I already had possession of it. I was like "ummmm no. My truck has not been done nor have I received any phone calls". She was surprised to hear that because she assured me that she has a note on her computer that my parts were in since last week. She put me on hold to call my local dealership to verify. After about a 30 minute hold, she comes back and tells me that I was right. The dealership has not called me and my parts were far from coming in. As a matter of fact, we are back to square one and promised another couple of weeks. Really frustrating. They should have just stuck to the first estimate they told me which was 6-8 months. What I feel like they are trying to do here is to cover up how big of a clusterfuck this whole situation is.

If you feel my frustration, U will know why I want out of this truck.

 

Right there with you

 

I don't know how I ended up in this thread but, I have a question.

Is this recall simply related to the rear diff leaking? I read that people are waiting on parts... is that a gasket? I'm just a stupid ex 1st gen owner but, can't you just use some "The Right Stuff" on there and call it a day? It doesn't seem worth the time to go through the process...

 

Its actually alot more involved than it sounds. Parts include new hardware, gasket, fluid and depending on severity of loss of fluid the fix may also involve internal parts being replaced. Ive read some with entirely new rear diffs. Not to mention others also documenting receiving a new battery since there truck has been sitting for awhile and the battery not being cycled.

 

Is the new hardware new studs/nuts? (Maybe proper torque took the originals beyond their metallic elasticity?) I guess the new Taco diffs aren't as bulletproof as my old 8.4. (which makes sense given all trucks seem to be getting more fragile these days) I remember going through a water crossing and driving the truck 10,000 mile before changing the milky fluid out... never caused an issue. But, I payed $6,500 for that truck 10 years ago. I can see how people would want everything perfect if they paid $40k for a new vehicle. I'll go back to my hole now. Thanks for the reply.

 

No problem. but yeah, most vehicles these days seem to be geared towards technological enhancements vs mechanical enhancements.

 

My uncle who was at Pearl Harbor would have had an immediate one-word answer--"Japs."

 

This is what I was taught, some 50 years ago...

 

First they check to see if there is evidence of leaking. If not, they retorque and send you off. If there is, then they replace gaskets and nuts, in most cases, refill, retorque and send you off. It seems there are shortages of gaskets and/or nuts.

There is a lot of talk in this thread about replacement of studs and bolts, but most of that seems to be "confusion" - there aren't bolts, there are studs, first of all. I am not sure if anyone has really had those replaced, others can say, mostly, though - it's gaskets and nuts.

 

I had recall work performed and picked up my truck today after waiting 42 days. I'm sure glad to have it back. Good luck to everyone else still waiting.

 

Just nuts, which I find very odd. And if not weeping/leaking the "fix" is just torquing the original nuts. I have come to believe that the nuts were inconsistently torqued "at the factory", and that those that were insufficiently torqued are the ones weeping/leaking. For those, replacing the gasket is a proper thing to do.

If leaking dealers are to drain the gear oil, and measure the amount recovered--if > 2 litres all is well, new gasket, new nuts. If <2 liters the differential is to be replaced as well.

The differing torque for the new nuts had me confused for a bit, then it occurred to me that many gasketed assemblies have two torque specifications, one initial value for a new assembly and another (generally lesser) for re-assembly--gasketed spark plugs are perhaps the most known of such things.

The 28 lb·ft spec for the "new" nuts is likely a "new gasket" spec, to ensure the gasket is properly compressed (preloaded); the 18 lb·ft in the FSM (and the spec for re-tightening "non-leaking" fasteners) is the re-assembly specification, to be used after the gasket has "taken a set". The new nuts are higher spec (and differently marked as such) however as the studs are not swapped out this is likely so that they may be readily identifier later "down-the-road".

This is of course 110% speculation, however failure analysis was always one of my favourite disciplines...

 

Just called, going in for the 2 year check, oil change and they'll
check the diff.. If I want to keep it, waiver needs to be signed.

 

They are starting out with the less costly way possible with just nuts hoping it's not the studs or worse.Throwing s%%t against the wall hoping some of it sticks.

 

Waiver does not "have" to be signed, it is what they would like you to do. There is zero, zilch, nada legal authority for them to seize your property...

 

Nope, but if you go against their advice, and something happens while you're still driving the vehicle, they're not responsible cause they "warned" you.