Long Travel BS Thread

I have them on both my trucks and the clutch slaves too. Only takes one person to bleed the brakes, they work great. Highly recommend it.

 

What I've always questioned on the actuator is their weight rating. Is it possible the wind from traveling at X speed will push the light bar back and over power the actuator? Pretty sure this is also dependent on the surface area of the lights you are running. I know my the power folding mirrors on my pop's F-350 only work parked or very low speeds and when the mirrors open there's a catch to hold them in place.

 

All the actuators I've used are measured by how many hundreds of pounds they will lift. With the proper actuator wind is a non issue

 

I'm not exactly following what you asked

But this is what I am looking at even after a MASSIVE clean up

 

If the boot looks seated properly then I'd check to see if the cv clamp was installed with enough tension. I'd clean it till you see no grease and only drive short distances increasing sped until it's enough to just start the leak.

 

I had to do extensive repairs to the glass they sent me. All the body shops in the area including Vette specialists turned me away saying they were a total loss. Time will tell if my repairs hold up, but I did a really good job with some experience as aviation maintenance and advice from local boat hull repairmen. Seems like going with any other company would be an improvement.

These are the rivnuts I mentioned. Pretty cool fastening device. Allows a blind install of threads in thin materials. Lots of guys use them for mounting wide body kits on their race cars. Originally intended to retrofit anti-ice on airplane wings.

 

Its pretty strong. Mine is a cheap one from Amazon and holds like 250lb static load, but it does have some play that makes the lights wiggle on stutter bumps. So I mounted a limit strap so it pulls tight when its up, its holds very strong and no chance of wind moving it at all and the limit strap is stretchy so I still have room to move up or down and still hold tight

 

I wish I had driven my truck today so I could check how long the lip is on my glassworks. My understanding that the lip too short to bolt onto the factory filler plates that are in front of the bed? I imagine another option for mounting you have is to mount them with body washers on the outside similar to how race trucks mount their bedsides.

 

Take the tire off
pull the dust cap off the hub
check the nut that is holding the CV stub shaft into the hub, if it's loose it will allow the hub to walk out of the bearings. If that happens it moves the rotor and caliper out with it.

 

Good call
It was lose

 

Should have a castle nut type cover and a cotter pin to keep it from coming loose.

 

I was 99% sure it was tight when the dust cover went back on and I swore it had the pin in too

But they checked it and it was a few turns loose

Who knows man, maybe it's just the gremlins

 

@tubbsisland Do you have any pictures when you did your cab cage of the dash area?

 

Should be 175 Ft-lbs on that nut.

 

This. There is absolutely no reason that nut should be loose, even if it's not torqued properly, the cotter pin should hold it in place for longer than what it lasted.

Also, why isn't there a dust shield between the rotor and spindle? Any lubricant that could get on the rotors is going to cause brake problems. I had my main crankshaft oil seal on the front of the engine fail and it sprayed oil EVERYWHERE the only place it didn't spray was on the rotors because of those shields, allowed me to get back to town and to a mechanic.

 

It wasn't tightened enough to seat the shaft all the way into the hub assymbly. Once driven it seated all the way causing it to be visibly loose. That's one of the main reason behind tightening it so much, that and the fact that it holds your hubs together. If you drove the truck anymore than a few hundred yards with a loose axle you may have taken some serious life off the hub bearings. It's not as bad as driving with nothing inserted in the bearing but it's still not good.

 

Yeah that's basically what I'm saying, you realllllllly have to fuck up to NOT tighten that nut down.

 

It could have been something simple like not having the rear dust seal on the spindle seated all the way and then just going tight on the axle nut. After you drive it around the block your seal seats fully leaving the axle loose. I'm sure it was an honest mistake made on a late night. I'm sure the installer is in more of a rush than usual with all the setbacks caboose117 ran into with Baja kits. Everyone makes mistakes, it's all about how they get handled. Just a small geoing pain in the grand scheme of a long travel truck

 

This seal?

Unless you've seen that happen before I would find it hard to believe someone, with even a half-assed attention to detail, could not have that seated properly. IIRC there isn't any reason to remove this during the CV shaft swapping.

If they screwed that up I would be seriously questioning everything else in the install, if I was @Caboose117 I would be torque checking everything in the front end.

 

Not that one. The dust seal on the back of the spindle. If they gusseted his spindles they would need to be removed to install the gussets and repressed back in.

The guy who did his install must of overlooked something, I'm pretty sure he's built more bad ass shit that just about anyone in this thread with the exception of a few guys that work for some shops. I understand how people who only wrench on their own trucks have never made a mistake. But when you spend 300 days wrenching on cars it's bound to happen. In the trades the old times say " The person who's never makes a mistake, has never made anything"