Long Travel BS Thread

100% adjustable



then bumper tied in between

 

Damn that is beautiful! Thanks man gonna def remember this.

 

Pics of my peasant 1st gen mobile. I know it's not fully linked and boxed like some of the beasts on here but pictures are always fun. Not even touching her flex in the slightest. I really want to see where this maxes out at. Stuffing 35s too easy. Its actually a big curb. I was invited to display her at a 4Wheel Parts event on Saturday. Got to get her dangly bits all shiny.

 

We only offer our L/T kit 3.5" wider per side. We're working on a new race kit, but that will be a little wider than our standard. A stock length replacement lower with bypass shock option is in the works as well.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

Air bumps up front?

 

Its very possible even with Camburg on 2nd gen. You will find most people here refuse to accept it will fit, and when you show them it will fit they change to saying its not needed

 

You talking like 4.5?

 

It's pretty common knowledge that they'll fit. But unless your bumping off the uca or spindle it's not worth it

 

The last part is opinion, but thanks, mine work great, to each their own

 

Eh, I personally disagree
Here's my old kit with just a coilpver. Obviously you need a bump to not fuck the shock if you actually use your truck.

Here's my new setup with my new bump

 

i make it a habit to remove them on any truck, they have always caused more issues then solved. getting shit stuck in them is always a PITA. even with I blew a rode on an engine and it sprayed oil everywhere, i was still able to stop.

 

Nope, was just to lazy to actually call Camburg for someone else, but they don't advertise a +2 kit...sooooooo

 

That's what tuning the bump zone on your bypass is for. And then run run a rubber bump for extreme situations.

Edit:
I like your new setup. If you can bump off the spindle I say run a bump as well for big hits. If you can't. They run a well tuned bypass and a small rubber bump for incidental contact

 

What benefit do you get bumping off the spindle or UCA vs LCA?

 

Farther away from the pivot point the better. That way the bump acts as a bump and not a secondary shock

 

A 1:1 ration on the bump. That way your only in the bump for the last 4" of bump travel instead of all 7" of bump travel with a 2" bump mounted next to the lca bushing

 

Orly? Competitive with a Solo XLT kit?

 

On my first setup i didn't have bypasses. Which are 1200 compared to 200 dollar bump stops. I went cheap at first and worked perfectly fine.

 

Nobody has ever given a valid reason why rubber is better. Sure bumping off the spindle is better, but how is rubber on the LCA better than hydro? Its mentioned all the time about "properly tuning" a bypass. Does any tune their bumps? I agree an stock off the shelf bump stop will be too long and have too much rebound. But a hydro bump stop can be tuned and shortened to whatever you want, with enough tuning you could make it match the rubber if you really wanted. I could make them travel 1/4" and hard as a rock just like oem rubber if I chose to. The difference is rubber provides no definite end point, and the compression/rebound curve cannot be changed, rubber provides a huge rebound effect at full compression. Unlike a hydro bump stop where you could change not only the initial feel but the complete compression/rebound curve with air pressure, valving and oil height. Its simple fluid dynamics, now I can agree for some people the time, $$$ and effort to tune a bump stop is not "worth it". But to try and say rubber is superior is silly

 

You can bump off the lower but space your bump out off the frame to engage further down the arm, gives you two stages of compression like a 2 tube bypass would except no rebound bump zone for hard bottom out hits.

I've had good luck with this setup. Usually built the bump mounts off of the factory bump mounts and gusset/plate everything to the frame a little more and run the factory rubber bump in there too.