Official Tennessee Thread

Also doesn't look like I'll make Wooly's tomorrow. I'm not going to have time to get an alignment done today.

 

You can get cat 6 shielded and not.

 

How are you attaching them?

 

...debatable

 

For when I play around AC lines.

 

Welp, the S/C has arrived

 

You might be able to find 5e shielded, definitely 6, 6a, and now CAT 7. You can get individual pair shielding, all 4 pair shielding, with stiffener, without stiffener, etc. We sometimes have to use POE (power over ethernet) injectors to run our APs (access points) since we buy them without power adapters. This matetrs when you're buying $600 APs. Those injectors are usually 24 or 48v, low amperage though.

Point is, don't use CAT anything to run power to anything other than a switch into a relay.

I won't be using CAT cable for anything on my truck, no matter how much of it I can get for free from work.

 

bolt to underside of roofrack

edit: if they're low profile enough to fit there. Single row combo beam bars.

 

can the power to switches be daisy chained or do i need a seperate fused line off battery to each switch?

Like can I run single wire + fuse from battery to first switch, then jump it to each additional switch at the mounting panel?

(and of course each switch has its own line out to its own relay for each light)

 

Chain.

 

sweet.
simplifying things in my plotting for future mods.
Want to plan ahead and bundle wires in braided sleeves to just run it all at once instead of having to route more lines later.

Last thing, i think...
Do I need a breaker in line between battery and the aux fuse box that I plan to add for all this?

 

^^ good point.

 

Agreed. I've used cat5 or cat6 for switches on temporary setups, but wouldn't use it on my truck. It's meant to have a specific connector on the end and when you're soldering it onto switches it's going to make it brittle. Too likely to fail for my tastes

 

I have developed this horrible "don't you know what the fuck you're doing" attitude. Makes me a raging wanker sometimes. And when I don't, I ask. That doesn't happen much around here though, cause...ya know...

Spent my life in Cars and now Electricty. 2 things people are deathly afraid of fucking with. And the idea of not using the appropriate part/wire/whatever is simply never an option. I despise "make it work", no, there's a right way.

I just usually try and stay out of the "whats wrong with this/how do I do this" topics. I do not have said truck in front of me.

For simple vehicle lighting....From battery, to fuse (or junction block, IE: Blue Sea's fuse box), to load (lights), to frame. Done. Always ground to the actual frame/chassis. It completes your circuit. Your battery negative is bolted to the frame, so the frame is always grounded.

I always "Start Stupid". I hotwire anything first. Any lights I hook directly to battery. Use Gator clips to attach to battery power and ground. You can move the ground around anywhere and the lights should come on, everytime. Then throw in a switch and a fuse and you get cool shit. Use anti-seize on any ground connection.

 

This guy gets it

 

Oh relay?

 

I see what you did there. Cheeky bastard lol

 

I've got a spool of 22ga twisted copper wire. Could use that for switches to relays but it's all the same color and would use up more of my braided sleeve stuff...
I'll cut open some CAT6 and see how big the wire looks.

Did just order 7 spools of different color 16 ga wire, 5 relays, and some other stuff though

 

I don't think you'll easily find CAT cable above 22ga without special order. Most of 5, 5e, 6, and 6a are gonna be 24-22ga conductors

 

All my shit are the same colors. Red, black, and green