Official Tennessee Thread

Mr.Bl0nde · Aug 16, 2017

allmotorrex said: ↑

*gay
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Lol

tacabode · Aug 16, 2017

New cam tabs welded in. Still need to put new spindles on, poly bushings, replacement cam bolts

@Kerleyfries did you have to buy new cam bolts? The sleeves on the fronts were rust welded so I had to cut them off. Still not sure how to get everything out of the control arms... haven't gotten that far yet

The truck is going to sit until at least friday. Leaving for LBL sunday...

Kerleyfries · Aug 16, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

New cam tabs welded in. Still need to put new spindles on, poly bushings, replacement cam bolts

@Kerleyfries did you have to buy new cam bolts? The sleeves on the fronts were rust welded so I had to cut them off. Still not sure how to get everything out of the control arms... haven't gotten that far yet

The truck is going to sit until at least friday. Leaving for LBL sunday...

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I had to buy a rear one before lbl and my cam tab fiasco. Mine had all been replaced at some point before I got the truck I think. I've only had one seize up ever.

2TRunner · Aug 17, 2017

allmotorrex said: ↑

Speaking of which, AOP Nov. 3-5.
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O rlly.

In.

2TRunner · Aug 17, 2017

Mr.Bl0nde said: ↑

Mine just started full days this week
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Oldest in 4th. Youngest starting KG.

Be nice to come home and not have the house be a total disaster.

tacabode · Aug 17, 2017

Kerleyfries said: ↑

I had to buy a rear one before lbl and my cam tab fiasco. Mine had all been replaced at some point before I got the truck I think. I've only had one seize up ever.
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My truck is a 2014 and I had 2 completely frozen (pb blaster and a bfh couldn't move them), the other two are rusty

dirty deeds · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

My truck is a 2014 and I had 2 completely frozen (pb blaster and a bfh couldn't move them), the other two are rusty
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This concerns me too!

But I don't live as far north as you do/did, so maybe less road salt?

11TRDTX · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

My truck is a 2014 and I had 2 completely frozen (pb blaster and a bfh couldn't move them), the other two are rusty
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Northern problems

tacabode · Aug 17, 2017

salt sucks.

do i need to save the sleeve of the factory bushings or do poly bushings slide right into the control arm? i'm trying to get everything set up/installed today so i can put poly bushings in tomorrow when they show up, and a couple replacement cam bolts, run to get an alignment, and be ready to roll a day early for LBL. it would really suck if i didn't get this thing fixed by mid day saturday!

11TRDTX · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

salt sucks.

do i need to save the sleeve of the factory bushings or do poly bushings slide right into the control arm? i'm trying to get everything set up/installed today so i can put poly bushings in tomorrow when they show up, and a couple replacement cam bolts, run to get an alignment, and be ready to roll a day early for LBL. it would really suck if i didn't get this thing fixed by mid day saturday!
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Just wheel with laura's car

allmotorrex · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

salt sucks.

do i need to save the sleeve of the factory bushings or do poly bushings slide right into the control arm? i'm trying to get everything set up/installed today so i can put poly bushings in tomorrow when they show up, and a couple replacement cam bolts, run to get an alignment, and be ready to roll a day early for LBL. it would really suck if i didn't get this thing fixed by mid day saturday!
Click to expand...

You need the inner bolt sleeve. You will insert it into the new poly bushings then push the bushings in the arm. Have you burned out the old bushings yet? If not, the hotter you can get your torch, the faster and easier they come out.

totmacher · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

salt sucks.

do i need to save the sleeve of the factory bushings or do poly bushings slide right into the control arm? i'm trying to get everything set up/installed today so i can put poly bushings in tomorrow when they show up, and a couple replacement cam bolts, run to get an alignment, and be ready to roll a day early for LBL. it would really suck if i didn't get this thing fixed by mid day saturday!
Click to expand...

keep the sleeve in the LCA. Just burn out rubber. You'll reuse the metal core from stock bushings too once you get all the old rubber & glue off.

totmacher · Aug 17, 2017

yellow torch, not blue. Yellow burns hotter.

Bluegrass Taco · Aug 17, 2017

tacabode said: ↑

My truck is a 2014 and I had 2 completely frozen (pb blaster and a bfh couldn't move them), the other two are rusty
Click to expand...

First time I had mine aligned the tech put a 3/4" impact on one....figured it would either break loose....or just break.

Snapped the drive on the impact.

Can you say smoke wrench?

Slickrick0999 · Aug 17, 2017

Just stopping in to say hello, new Tennessee member.

Mr.Bl0nde · Aug 17, 2017

Slickrick0999 said: ↑

Just stopping in to say hello, new Tennessee member.
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Welcome! What part?

rngr · Aug 17, 2017

Slickrick0999 said: ↑

Just stopping in to say hello, new Tennessee member.
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dirty deeds · Aug 17, 2017

Slickrick0999 said: ↑

Just stopping in to say hello, new Tennessee member.
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Hi

beertimecontinuum · Aug 17, 2017

allmotorrex said: ↑

Got an example of a "factory" coilover vs a "performance" coilover? A 2.0 coilover is small for our trucks but works fine. For reference, no one even makes a #700 spring for a 2.0, which is what most v6 with added weight need to run. Just that tells you to go up to a 2.5.

IFP stands for "internal floating piston". It's a piston without a connecting rod to anything that sits wherever you place it and separates the oil from the nitrogen. So when you have a resi, the piston sits in the resi. You push the piston down in the resi cylinder until you get the depth where you want, fill your shock all the way up with oil then once it's assembled, fill the rest of the resi with nitrogen until you get your desired psi. The higher the psi, the more it compresses the oil essentially making the valving stiffer and vica versa with lower psi. When you have no resi, this piston is placed inside the shock body, which obviously takes up space where extra oil would have been. This decreases oil capacity thus decreasing longevity of performance in high heat situations. This doesnt mean high speed stuff, it means any situation where the shock is working a lot.

Example: Drive down a smooth highway at 100 mph for 8 hours and they lose very minimal performance because they are just sitting stationary. Drive down a rutted gravel road for 5 mins at 15 mph and there will be a significantly greater performance loss because they are constantly working.

Short answer: the IFP 2.5 Fox shocks are fine
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Skootter14 said: ↑

Thank you, and here an the examples: http://www.ridefox.com/filter.php?m=truck&t=shocks&ref=topnav

On the left side of each item, it says "Factory" "Performance" or "Adventure" (thats a new one to me??). I def want performance level stuff but no where does it tell you the difference between their labeled items and what you GET for going "performance" over "factory." Thats what I dont understand. I might have to just call them to explain.

The "2.0 Performance Series Coil-over IFP" looks enticing, but its a 2.0, not 2.5. I'm just confused as why there isnt a 2.5 Performance with coilover or something like that??? All the other front shocks are all "Factory" labeled, even though they have 2.5 and/or resi's?????
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Skootter14 said: ↑

so i called the company and the dude was insanely helpful. The "Factory" series shocks are their top end selling shock (the only level higher is custom built race shocks for the real dessert racers, which are not sold on their website outright). The "performance" level shock is 1 step below the "factory" level. They are "2 tiers" above stock, "1 tier" above your entry level aftermarket shock (i equated this to the bilstein 5100ish level) and the one ABOVE it is the factory. he agreed the name is misleading. the 2.5 factory series coilover IFP is the way to go since I dont "need" the resi at this point. he agreed the resi would be more suitable for running high speeds offroad, and for a daily driver that does slower moving trails on weekends that still articulate a wide range of motion, the 2.5 "Factory" IFPs would be the way to go.

Some of you may have known that but this guy (me) did not and I was way confused by the labeling of the shocks (but he said I wasnt the only one). Hope this helps someone else in the future.

EDIT: the 2.5 comes in 2 sizes (a 2" and 3"). if you get the 3" you MUST have aftermarket UCA's for them to fit.
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Ok, Fox GB going on right now, going to compare the prices to DSM and buy whichever is cheaper.
So school me. Wanting best performance and travel here, guess I want 2.5 Factory with DSC reservoir in extended length? 600lb coils? Rears will be 2.5 with DSC reservoir, 14" or 16"

Red Demon · Aug 17, 2017

beertimecontinuum said: ↑

Ok, Fox GB going on right now, going to compare the prices to DSM and buy whichever is cheaper.
So school me. Wanting best performance and travel here, guess I want 2.5 Factory with DSC reservoir in extended length? 600lb coils? Rears will be 2.5 with DSC reservoir, 14" or 16"
Click to expand...

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Official Tennessee Thread

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#48781
Mr.Bl0nde Well-Known Member

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tacabode Well-Known Member

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Kerleyfries Idk what the hell I'm doing

#48784
2TRunner Snoop Dad

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2TRunner Snoop Dad

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tacabode Well-Known Member

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dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

#48788
11TRDTX bruh

#48789
tacabode Well-Known Member

#48790
11TRDTX bruh

#48791
allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

#48792
totmacher automotive hypochondriac

#48793
totmacher automotive hypochondriac

#48794
Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

#48795
Slickrick0999 Well-Known Member

#48796
Mr.Bl0nde Well-Known Member

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rngr Aix sponsa

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dirty deeds Big Blue Nation!

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