What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

mo powa!

 

24V-36V is the sweet spot depending on rod type. I could probably do just fine with two Batts and a 6013 rod.

 

What kind of outlet are you using? Most 220v dryer hookups use NEMA 14-30 outlets rated at 30 amps (at least mine is). I believe you need the 6-50R or the 10-50P outlets rated at 50 amps for a welder, depending on what plug it has.

I have a dinky little Lincoln 120v welder, haha. I just plug into the standard 15/20A washer outlet. I forget the amperage.

 

I gotta say the same for the amount of practice. One time in high school my friend and I stick welded everything in the scrap metal container together in a sculpture in one of the booths. We had a saw, hand cuffs (?), countless plates and bars, and I think a stool. Needless to say our shop teacher wouldn't let us do any unauthorized projects after it took him an hour to cut apart...

 

It's a NEMA 14-30P to NEMA 6-50R adapter I made. The welder states at Max load it only requires 24.7amps though on 220

 

Huh, that's not that much amperage than I thought. At that point I'd consider running a dedicated 220v line in my garage. Debating on doing it myself, haven't had time to call the electrician though.

Those Millers are really damn efficient aren't they. I got my specs from those crappy HF Chicago Electric welders, I know for a fact those need the 220v 50A outlets.

 

Replace the breaker with a new one, they get old and tired as well. Check your machines duty cycle as well. They will shut off and not trip the breaker when you hit the duty cycle. Its easy math to read. Also drop your wire size, everyone jam's .035 wire in those and cant figure out why it dosnt produce. Step down to 030 or .028 and you wont have to work the machine as hard for a better weld quality.

 

It's a quality welder for sure, really enjoyed laying practice beads with it. If it were my garage I'd do that but in this case I think I'll just burn it at 110

 

I'm using .030, breaker could be a prob though considering only half of the circut was popping. I am no where near the duty cycle with this, I was welding in short spurts and making sure the temp light wasn't coming on.

 

Pitman puller. Every time. You'll never go back once you use it works on lbj too. Cost 15 bucks at the parts store. Get the bigger one. Or rent it for free.

 

I would say breaker. I use those little shits everyday, they do just fine. If you need a hand i am off this week.

 

I may take you up on that, we shall see how I fair on Wednesday, if I can't get it to play along would you be free Thursday afternoon?

 

I knew I was overlooking something simple, I'll just buy one, I'm sure I'll use it more.

 

I plan 8hrs at a time, but it shouldnt be a issue. Welding or wrenching.

 

Yeah. Torque it down on the tie rod. Then smack the Putman with a hammer and it'll pop right out.

Wear ear muffs or ear plugs. It'll pop loud.

 

So I was tired of the single stock Toyota high tone horn which made the truck sound like a Japanese Scooter.

So I went to the junkyard and found a 1985 Cadillac DeVille that came with 4 horns, took them off, and put them on. Now it sounds like an actual goddamn truck! The horns in question were Delco-Remy A, C, D, and F note horns.

I cut off the stock Cadillac mounting brackets and welded them to a flat stock of steel. I ran the four 12v wires and spliced them into one that fed into a relay that in turn plugs into the stock Tacoma horn system. I tried going without the relay but these horns draw something like 5 Amps each and it fried my stock fuse pretty damn quickly. I sanded, primed, and painted the whole thing so it looks presentable, even though no one is ever going to see it.

I wired it in a way where I can have 5 TOTAL HORNS (yes, I'm crazy) if I really wanted to by utilizing the existing stock high-tone horn. I don't really like how it sounds with the stock horn so I just keep it unplugged. I bolted the whole assembly in the front valence where the radiator crossmember attaches, firing downwards. Now let me be the first to tell you there is a hell of a difference in volume. My buddy could hear it blocks away compared to my stock horn.

Would anyone be interested in a setup for their truck? I wouldn't mind making a few of these. There's definitely no shortage of mid 80's Cadillac sedans around here in the Bay Area...

Here's a video:





Not Pictured: Complete Wiring Harness - this is just a portion of the 12v leads coming out of the horns.

 

Solid. I guess they needed that many horns back then because everyone was strung out on coke.

 

I know, right? When I think of your stereotype pimp car I think of a mid 80's Cadillac sedan.

 

A Tale of Two Transmissions

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-tale-of-two-transmissions.507025/
(link to thread based on this post)


My trans had a urd (pretty sure) short shift kit installed by the previous owner. It shifted poorly (compared to other trucks I've driven, but got into all the gears - just reverse was a little finicky at times) and I thought it was because the guy didn't take care of the truck. When I went to swap the short shifter over to my new trans from a pampered truck, I noticed that the base of the short shifter didn't fit flush on the transmission housing before I felt the shifter bottom out inside of the trans. I bolted it down loosely and tried to shift and could barely even shift when compared to the stock shifter that came on the trans. When I looked inside I could see where the bottom of the shifter had been contacting the inside of the trans. It's kind of hard to see here, but there is a line in the grease where the shifter was contacting the metal below the hole for the shifter:



I checked out what my trans looked like that had had the shifter on it for awhile:



There was a definite wear issue where the shifter was grinding off the metal below the hole for the shifter.

I then checked out the two shifters side by side and saw that the bushing on the end of the short shifter did not clear the metal ball at the end and had worn away if it had ever had material below the metal ball:



It's easy to see that the oe shifter had a bushing that extended well past the end of the metal ball and was not contacting the metal in my new transmission. Not only that, but my original transmission shifted much better with the oe shifter when compared to the difficultly shifting with the short shifter. The new trans would shift perfectly with the oe shifter, but had a hard time getting into a few gears with the short shifter.

This all leads me to believe that the person who installed the short shifter didn't thread in the metal shifter extension deep enough. The previous owner had left out the original shifter base plate gasket and used rtv as recommended by URD, but I don't think that the missing gasket would account for the extra depth that the short shifter is reaching.

I tried to take it the shifter out to inspect the bushing and of course the shift level retainer cap would not let me push it down to "unscrew" the shifter (step 2 here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Toyota-Tacoma-manual-transmission-pop-out-of-gear/). I checked the oe shifter retainer cap and it was easy to push down - just my luck.

Meanwhile, the new trans had been removed by a guy that was not really big on paying attention to details and I think he lost the spring that I found on my original transfer case shifter. I assume that my new one's supposed to have it as well since there's holes for it?



And finally, should the transfer shifter boot be an innie or an outie? They were both innies, but I made the new one an outie to see if it's supposed to be like that. I'm not sure how much it matters. Just want to put it back the right way.





Any knowl-age would be great! Thank you in advance

 

Got some new shoes!! Whoohoo! Can't wait for more wheelin!