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DOOR HINGE ?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by PROseur, Nov 17, 2016.

  1. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:29 PM
    #1
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So my rear passenger door seems "slightly" sticky upon opening and closing.

    Fiddled with it, a little today, couldn't figure out why. Then I compared it to driver side, seems like the mechanism is a little different where the latch part is.

    I took pictures.

    Anybody can help or figure out what to do as preventative maintenance?

    PROBLEMATIC DOOR PIC:



    pass.jpg
     
  2. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:29 PM
    #2
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    PERFECT DOOR, NO PROBLEMS:

    IMG_3338.jpg
     
  3. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:37 PM
    #3
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    Fox 2.5’s up front, icon 2.0 rear shocks, stock leafs, !Meso map and dome lights make all the difference in the world!
    Hey idk about all this poverty spec here you got child locks !!
     
  4. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:38 PM
    #4
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got rear doors, that you guys don't have :D
     
  5. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:40 PM
    #5
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    Fox 2.5’s up front, icon 2.0 rear shocks, stock leafs, !Meso map and dome lights make all the difference in the world!
    im sure a few of those guys who have AC cabs look up to your four door
     
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  6. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:43 PM
    #6
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sure if you want to be the SLOWEST truck on the block :D
     
  7. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:52 PM
    #7
    3rYODA

    3rYODA Don’t sell to me, I don’t pay.

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    Fox 2.5’s up front, icon 2.0 rear shocks, stock leafs, !Meso map and dome lights make all the difference in the world!
    I mean shit I got your same motor lifted with "32's" and heavy rims i hardly have power to but that doesn't mean it won't cruise 90mph
     
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  8. Nov 17, 2016 at 4:53 PM
    #8
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    I don't have rear doors on my single cab so I can't help.
     
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  9. Nov 17, 2016 at 5:03 PM
    #9
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mine will cruise 95MPH all day long. Except when you hit the grade. UH OH :D
     
  10. Nov 17, 2016 at 6:33 PM
    #10
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    the one door's latch mechanism looks upside down.
    Possibly even a different latch component off an earlier 1st Gen Tacoma ?
    not sure that could work or is interchangeable. But something to ponder.

    Google and compare say '95.5 - '97 door latch - locks to your '01 Tacoma
    look at the illustrations/images to see there's even the possibility.

    maybe it's not an OEM latch.
    or was salvaged from another Toyota that crosses over ?

    I'd have stress until I corrected that. Lol
    possibly might locate/purchase a salvaged unit on ebay or at a local salvage yard.
    Or call a Toyota specialty salvage yard... pay the piper... get it done.

    likely fewer wrecked Dcabs to be had in the salvage business.
    But a new Toyota OEM unit is gonna be pricey $ 300. ish, my guess.
     
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  11. Nov 17, 2016 at 6:56 PM
    #11
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it can be earlier gen Tacoma, as this is the first 4 door Taco model.

    These are the rear doors.

    This car has never been modified, and it is all original.

    The door opens and closes fine, no issues. However, it "sticks" a little bit. Like it takes a .00001% more effort to open it. Almost like if your weatherstripping was stuck to the body. That is the best explanation I can do.

    My concern is (preventative), is this looking like it will fail, and the door won't open/close any more?

    There are tons of salvage Toyota only yards close by, I can take it to, if that is the issue.

    Appreciate the help

     
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  12. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:04 PM
    #12
    Holy schmidt

    Holy schmidt Well-Known Member

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    This is a complete guess but could you take the door panel off and see if any of the linkages are binding and/or grease them up?
     
  13. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:05 PM
    #13
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sure. If that is the recommendation, I can attempt it this weekend, since I drive the PRO on the weekend, and the 01 is garaged.

    Is there a how to , on removing door panels?
     
  14. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:15 PM
    #14
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Attached.

    Might also need to adjust the striker. Also attached.
     

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  15. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:15 PM
    #15
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thank you VERY much!
     
  16. Feb 12, 2017 at 6:27 PM
    #16
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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  17. Feb 12, 2017 at 7:25 PM
    #17
    TheSaint

    TheSaint Regular Guy

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    I had something very similar to this happen when I first bought my truck. The return spring for the latch broke. So gravity would pull the latch down when the door was open and prevent it from closing. Had to lift the latch with a key or something just before you closed the door to allow it to shut, otherwise the latch would just bang against the loop on the door jamb. I wound up just buying a new lock mechanism and replacing the whole thing, works just fine now.
     
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  18. Aug 23, 2017 at 9:10 PM
    #18
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So this exact thing started happening again

    When you say "I bought a new lock mechanism," which door of yours are you talking about ? Front or rear? Idea of cost and difficulty replacing ?

    My rear passenger door is doing it again where I can't close it. I have to put a key in the opening and lift the metal part as you said
     
  19. Aug 24, 2017 at 8:38 AM
    #19
    TheSaint

    TheSaint Regular Guy

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    It was the left rear door. I replaced the lock assembly. Mine has power door locks, the lock assembly for non-power locks is a different part number. I believe the part # for yours would be 69340-04010, but verify that with a dealer first. I bought mine from Conicelli, it cost about $125. The replacement wasn't particularly difficult, it was actually the first repair I ever did on the truck. The frustrating part was that all of the plastic in the door is old and brittle, so as I was pulling things out to remove the door trim everything was snapping off and breaking instead of coming out nicely. So I wound up having to replace other parts as well, like the window switch and a lot of the plugs for the door trim. And getting the old linkage out of the door handle without breaking anything took a lot of fiddling and head scratching. But I did get it done, door works perfectly now.
     
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  20. Aug 24, 2017 at 8:52 AM
    #20
    PROseur

    PROseur [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like I have the exact problem

    -mine is also rear left door
    -also have power locks


    Given we are talking about the female part on the door opening that connects to the striker on the body

    You have to replace the whole lock assembly for that ?


    Did you use any how to to do the work?

    Appreciate your help

     

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