DCLB with 885 springs, 5100s at 0 and 3 leaf AAL

i ordered 5100s for all 4 corners. OME 885 springs and icon 1.5 AAL for the rear (=

 

Let me know if you need the tools for the ECGS bushing if you ever decide to do it unless you decide to drive to Raleigh.

I think you'll be happy with the results.

 

you have the tools? you did it yourself?

 

Bought the tools to provide to the shop that would do the work, ended up going with Eastern Offroad as they could get it done immediately, charged me just over $235.00 with me providing all parts and tools. Pungo Offroad was looking for at least a month out before they could get it in. Production Offroad was a 2-3 week wait.

Yes I have both extraction and insertion tools to loan.

 

i could pay you to use them? or your favorite case of beer

 

Don't need to pay, just return them when finished as I'm not using them anytime soon. Just let me know when you're ready and we'll PM a place to meet up.

 

sounds good i called eastern and they act like they have never heard of it

 

Print the procedure off and take it with you, they knew what I was talking about once they looked at it to determine a labor charge. I talked to them face to face so the guy on the phone might not know but they can ask someone if you're there in the shop. They just did mine last month. I'll see if I can pull a copy of my bill and who I talked to or if the tech who did the work is listed. I even have the old needle bearing so I know it was replaced.

They may not recognize it as the "ECGS bushing" but if you say "replace the factory needle bearing with an aftermarket bushing sleeve to in the driver's side front axel for a Toyota Tacoma" it might jog their memory. They told me they'd done a few of them in the past before my truck and had a guy there who was very familiar with it.

 

I ordered my 885s, I have my 5100s on ice at home. Did You buy new top strut mounts or use the oem? I guess I have to get the ecgs bushing too. Hmmm what else... wheels, tires...

 

Used the OEM, mine only have 20k miles on them.

 

Sorry I am a little late to the party but what is a ECGS bushing? I am looking to build up this exact project on my 2011 and wondering if I need this also?

 

The link contains the details but in a nutshell, it replaces the OEM needle bearing in the front driveshaft with a more robust aftermarket bushing (sold by ECGS) to prevent vibrations associated with needle bearing failure when lifting these trucks.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-vibes-ecgs-bushing-fix.464941/#post-13883949

 

Got my parts together, thinking about taking tomorrow off and tackling this project. Decided to go with 885's. With nothing in the rear. Gonna see how much bro lean I have from there.

 

Complete Newbie here - first post on TW! Just brought home my 2017 Inferno DCLB TRD Sport... have been eyeing wheels/ tires and possible lift before I ever got the truck. Have skimmed over dozens of pages of different threads but seem more confused than when I started! I am still unsure of the lift but seem to be leaning towards some 17X9 wheels with a 265/70R17 A/T "sport" tire that isn't too aggressive (no mud terrain type tires). Sounds like that package will fit the stock setup without any mods needed. If I go lift, I can't break the bank and I want the truck to ride as close as possible to stock (Sport seems to be stiffer on the road, and I actually prefer that feel, will this setup preserve that or will it likely get cushier and closer to the TRD OR feel?), and be as low maintenance as possible (and I don't need anything more than this minimal lift height). Your package seems popular and fits those criteria.

Couple questions... Do people tend to order all their parts online and then take it to a local shop to install? What is a reasonable amount to pay for the install? I saw where you mentioned how much the bearing replacement cost, but not the rest... Thanks for the simple answers to the newb questions in advance!

 

Welcome to TW and congrats on the new truck.

Since tires and suspension affect ride comfort I'D recommend you only change your wheels and tires first. I'm not familiar with the wheels you plan to run but a 9 inch wheel should fit with that tire size without any rubbing depending on the offset of the wheel. Once you've driven that around for a bit, decide you like it and still want to add height then consider changing the suspension.

Yes most people will price parts and order online, I would guess 50-70% then do their own install but you can still go to a shop and price kits and install or order online and take it to a shop.

If that's the route you take shop around for quotes on the install. If you're changing both front and back I would estimate getting charged $125-200 per corner in labor from most reasonable shops. You would also need an alignment which could run about $85-150. Labor rate would depend on where you live, some areas cost more than others so get some quotes from different shops.

Having a lift like mine installed with the bushing and alignment for should run anywhere from 750 -1100 for a reasonable estimate.

 

Thx for the feedback... Think I will just go wheels n tires first and see how I like it. I've also seen where people on here are running the 5100's up front with stock coils just to get the 1/2"-1" to truly level the truck and get the rake to a more desirable look... and I think people are doing it themselves pretty easily without needing a spring compressor. Seems like a cheap ($200 in shocks) and easy small fix to the stock setup. Anyone know what Bilsteins come on the truck? People getting a similar ride with the 5100's and stock coils? And what is the background on different generations of Bilsteins? Some better than others? How do you know which one they are? Part Number sequence?

Side question... seems obvious that anytime you mess with suspension, you're gonna need an alignment or should get one to confirm everythings straight. If I'm just doing just wheels and tires, is there something I'm missing that would make me think about an alignment after install? Or is that just shops ways of trying to squeeze more money out of you unnecessarily? Or does the extra inch of tire affect how the truck's suspension works enough for an alignment check?

 

The problem is you are getting your lift (leveling) from a compressed stock spring...so you are going to have a harsher ride and less travel than stock. If you set the 5100s at 0 and use a longer coil to get the lift you will have a more compliant ride than stock with longer travel than stock and the increased height (leveling) you're after.

 

Anytime you play with the front of your suspension you're like going to need an alignment. If you're just doing tires and wheels your alignment should be good but you'll need to have the new tires and wheels balanced, figure about $20 per corner for mounting and balancing.

Stock shocks on the OR are Bilstein 4600 hd.

Bilstein 5100s have an adjustable perch to use with stock springs to add up to 2.5 inches in height. Some people do adjust the front to either 0.85 or 1.75 inches to level. This preloads the stock spring resulting in a firmer ride. In order to do this you would need to disassemble the shock and spring to change the perch so a spring compressor would be required. Some people will remove the shock and spring combo and take it to a shop to get them adjusted and reassembled.

 

So it truly sounds (from what you and speedtre are saying) like the OME 885's and 5100's would be the ideal starting point if I want to do anything lift wise, even just truly "leveling" the front. It would fix my rake, and could still be adjusted out to get me 2+" in the front if I decided to add your parts to the back, correct? Seems like good for a minor front lift and for a later overall lift if I want to go that route later...

 

Pretty much...check this link out or better yet call Headstrong and tell them exactly what you want to do and your budget...

http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/uploads/1/1/8/4/11846658/lift_guide_shock_and_coil_selection.pdf