What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Header is back in...


Engine fuse box harness and various accompanying wires like headlights and turn signals came out too...




Shiny new fuel filter too because I was in there anyway...

For those wondering if I did that while it was easy to reach, no I didn't. I did it that hard way, intake installed and engine in the truck haha because the shipment didn't arrive in time.

 

I tried to find the race map on there, I don't know if they took it down - do you have a .pdf of it or something still? I'd like to check it out. If worst comes to worst I can just email them. Thanks man!

 

Green stuff 6000 or 7000, I just put the 7000 series on last week, they are amazing in stopping power,

 

@Dalandser

One of these should work!

 

Where did you find the disc brake kit? And cost?? And how much difference in stopping power?
I have the green stuff 7000 and they work great,

 

Thats dope

 

Might be interested too, pm me with a photo of how and where you attached the bar to the truck

 

Its not really a "kit" that you can buy, its probably 500 a corner or so.... had them for a while so i dont remember the cost new. Its BIG willwood 4 pistons for now with custom brackets, may upgrade to 6's once i see how these do. I also put much bigger studs in so had to bore out the holes on the hat out for that aswell. The rest is spidertrax rotors and hats. It wasn't bolt on either, had to bore out the ID of the hat a tiny amount to clear. I haven't driven it with this new setup but these came off one of our competition rock crawlers so i know it will be better than stock lol. A 14 inch rotor will be an improvement over stock no matter what

 

PM'd ya buddy!

 

I could never find a tool chest/box that would fit in that spot for the Tacoma. All of them are either made for mid-size trucks or full sized truck. I had to refinish an old Delta crossover box, but the small is small and I'm going to be running a rollbar so I need the clearance on each side to mount the arms. I found a really nice Weatherguard aluminum chest, but they don't fit by 3 or 4 inches because of the wheel wells. Fit fine in an old Ford Ranger, but our wheel wells are so far forward.

I don't have the provisions to weld Aluminum plate, so I might just have to custom make my own toolbox or Frankenstein one off Craigslist. Seems like the only box that would fit are trailer tongue boxes.

 

I'm just curious, are you shoving all that emissions/EVAP crap back in there like the charcoal canister? The one on my '98 is a pain in the ass and takes up so much damn room above the battery. The '01+ ones were nice because it was mounted under the bed.

Nice work so far.

 

Yeah, 95 (only year this applies to) has a very tiny evap canister with one VSV. Every other year has the big one you're describing with 3 VSVs and a pressure transducer. I will be turning this 96 into a 95 for all intents and purposes. So it can pass emissions and such, it will look stock vacuum and emissions wise. Once I'm in Arizona I'll probably ditch the EGR just because it is a nuisance, but I'll retain all the emissions because they are a safety measure for gas tank pressure and fumes too. My evap looks like this for reference though (very old truck photo incoming)...

 

Huh. I didn't realize they came with Evap canisters that small. I hate how big they got in the following years - what's the problem with the EGR?

 

The EGR on the 3RZ is just in a really tough place when working on the truck. It also is a very rudimentary system and contributes to the overall harsh idle they tend to have. Plus it just gunks up intake tracts because it is literally the same sooty exhaust right back into the intake. This reduces the cyl temps (look that one up if you don't believe it) and supposedly reburns anything that was unburnt the first time. It is mostly a tertiary system for meeting C.A.F.E requirements of the year. Super easy to bypass though with a single 10k ohm resistor and two block off plates. It wouldn't be so annoying if its duty cycle mapping was more responsive to vehicle load and temp. But since it is basically open all the time when the engine is up to temp it throws A/F ratios off and intake mass air off enough to cause roughness.

 

Interesting. I wonder if it had anything to do with this P0171 system too lean code I keep getting on the truck, it comes back every few years and I have no idea what it is. I do have an aftermarket CAI, but I check the service history for my truck and it had the same code years back on the original air intake. I pulled off the intake and the MAF and they're both perfectly fine, no carbon buildup or anything.

My local SMOG place would probably have a heart attack if I purposely "altered the factory emissions system" or something if I do anything remotely different to the truck since I'm in Cali.

 

Stuck open EGR would cause a rich condition.

 

Would deleting and or bypassing the EGR fail say a SMOG or emissions check? I'm curious if it would show up or not.

 

It wouldn't trip the computer off if you use the resistor and hide it in the harness. But if the SMOG tech checks the vacuum diagram and sees the EGR diaphragm is missing or sees your block off plates where the EGR crossover tube used to be they'll probably fail it. I 100% think that due to the low visibility of the system you could hide an EGR delete well enough to pass as long as you obscure the vacuum diagram and the tech doesn't have a diagram of his own for the visual inspection.

 

Ah I see. It won't bring up any Evap codes?

Is the delete worth it? Thinking of doing it myself.

 

Unless the techs I've been to are godlike in their ability to check vacuum systems in a fraction of a second, the likelihood of them figuring it out would be less than the odds of you winning a game of pickup sticks with your buttcheeks. That said just have the stock parts ready to put back in every two years just in case they do fail you and get a free retest, don't have any obvious no no's showing like an aftermarket intake, and boom. No problemos amigo.