Archery Talk

I've shot two different compound bows (twice each), so yes I consider myself brand new. Definitely do not plan on hunting with one this season.

 

You certainly could have your self ready in the next month but yes, it does take some time

 

I can do 125, bow only comes with quiver.

 

I dont know what brand but prob needs around $100 for a good ripcord rest and around $50 or so for sights and a good release that has varying prices depending on brand, up to about $80 new. Check craigslist for deals if you dont do this but Id go to some archery stores and shoot a few different brands and see which you like.

 

OK....the very first thing you should do, is head to a local archery pro-shop. By that I mean an actual pro shop. Not Cabelas, not Bass Pro, not Gander Mountain. A pro shop. One of the most important aspects of shooting a bow correctly and comfortably is having a proper draw length. A bow that is set up properly will fit to you and not you contorting to fit the bow. From there, shoot different bows, shoot a lot of different bows. Find out what YOU like and not what any one else including the dealer is pushing. Me, I'm fond of a bow that is slightly longer axle to axle (cam axle to cam axle), with a medium brace height (distance from grip to string). Shorter brace heights tend to be quicker, but are also sensitive to form and technique.

As far as brands to stay away from, any of the ones you find in pro shops will most likely shoot better than 90% of the archers using them. Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, Bow-Tech, PSE, Bear.... all will get the job done. You do not need to spend $1K on just the bow.

Just as an example, my son's Mission Riot was $399. I set it up with a Whisker Biscuit $49, A Fuse 5 pin Fiber Optic sight $39, Bohning Lynx Quiver $25, peep & kisser, 1/2 dozen Easton Nemesis Arrows $50. He had a release from shooting previously, but Scott, Tru-Fire, and others make good releases in the $70-$90 dollar range. All told I had just around $600 in his set up. I know that's a little over budget

One area I will not skimp on is arrows and broadheads. By choice of arrows is Eastons Axis or Full Metal Jacket, or Carbon Express Red Maxima's. The Full Metal's and Red Maxima's ARE somewhat pricey, but since that's actually the business end of archery hunting, I don't mind putting a few etxtra $$'s into them.

Broadheads? Again, most out there will get the job done. Some won't. For fixed, I shoot Slick Trick Standards and Vipertricks, Magnus 2 blade Stingers, and VPA. For mechanical Wasp Jak Hammers and this year I am going to try Rage Hypodermics. One thing I will say, DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT shoot mechanicals as a band aid for a poorly tuned bow. Too many archers will pick mechs because of poor arrow flight with fixed blades. One of the reasons folks see poor penetration with mechs, is they are shooting a poorly tuned bow. An arrow that is not hitting perfectly dead on, is going to suffer from penetration loss, regardless of fixed or mechanicals. Do not let any one talk you into shooting mechs because of poor arrow flight with fixed blade broadheads. Proper tuning is not paper tuning. Paper tuning is a start, that's all. Once my bow is paper tuned at 3 yards AND 20 yards, I "will walk back" tune. Some guys walk back tune, yoke tune, bare shaft tune..... The point is to get your field tips and broadheads hitting the same POI. And I haven't owned a bow that I wasn't able to accomplish that. It takes a little time and effort, but it's definitely worth it. Familiarity with equipment breeds consistency, consistency breeds success.

PM me if you have any questions... more than glad to help.

Here's a pic of my son's bow with the end result. 20 yard shot, 100 grain Slick-Trick. Complete pass thru, went 40 yards and dropped.

 

What he said above but maybe a little more condensed, LOL

 

Watched guy shoot a bear yesterday with a Rage.

The thing literally fell to the ground, dead, in 5 seconds.

Totally destroyed the lungs and heart.

 

After 35 years of bowhunting that IS the condensed version.

 

Nice
The elk cow I killed a couple seasons ago with my bow was dead on her feet in less than 15 seconds. I must have hit her in a good artery, double lung.

 

bear and deer starts this week, then archery elk 6-12 Sept!

 

What's the nonresident tags like in N. Idaho? My buddy and I are looking to do a DIY hunt for elk soon.

 

They really arent bad prices IMO...

https://idfg.idaho.gov/licenses/fees-nonresident

 

That isn't bad at all!! Elk tags draw only?!

 

My little elk spot isn't quite doing as well as I'd hoped. But it's still early asf, hopefully the weather will cool off and the rut will kick in a little before the end of the season.

 

Have you determined whether you're right handed or left handed yet?

 

So a frustrating weekend antelope hunting. Crawled 500 yards through some grass and got a decent shot at 60 yards. Saw lots of blood coming down the leg but the antelope walked for 200 yards and bedded down. Gave it an hour then tried to put another arrow in it, but it took off when I got 80 yards away. Found it 4 hours later walking around not acting hurt. So my shot must have been just high enough over the shoulder and through the neck to not hit anything important and not lose enough blood. Couldn't get close enough after that and was pretty pissed at myself for a bad shot

 

sorry to hear that...hopefully it wasnt a bad wound and it makes it.

 

I think it will be sore for a week or so, but I doubt it's a fatal shot.

 

Sorry to hear that. Sux when that happens.