What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Your stock engine bay fuse block is supplied by a 8ga wire straight from the alternator and I believe is fused for either 80 or 120amps. The inside box is fed from it, as is all of the inside accessories.

 

Replaced my OTRE and took an inch off the fenders. She looks great

 

Zane, you are the man! That was exactly what I was looking for!

Another question for you:

I'm upgrading my alternator to 140A. What should I do about the stock 120A fuse? I'm gonna be running 1-0 from the alt to the battery, so it should be way more than enough to handle the new alternator output.

 

That will be hard to make happen without serious stock harness mods.

Generally for a dual battery setup you let the one battery start and run the truck as design from factory. Any accessories you add go on the second battery. Amps, fridge, lights, whatever.

I'm all for leaving the winch on the starter battery as well as radios due to the closer run to the alt.

A good battery monitor system will keep them both charged just fine. The ML ACR I believe it's called is a great option from blueseas. What I'd go for.

 

Just leave it stock. The fuse is for the pull of power from all the things in the fuse box now what the alt is pumping to it

 

Thanks, Monte!

Just out of curiosity, how big of a deal is it to isolate the starter battery? Ideally, that's what I'd like to do, if possible.

As Zane said, if the dash fuse block is fed by the engine bay fuse block, and the engine bay fuse block is normally fed by the stock battery, could I not simply feed the engine bay block from my house battery, which will be on the other side of the ML-ACR (isolated from the starter battery)? Are there other loads that don't originate from the two stock fuse blocks?

I'm aware that I might be oversimplifying things here.

Understood. I thought that might be the case. Like the main breaker in your house.

 

Well..I don't see the point really mostly.

I mean if you have everything on that battery, it's more likely to die. Which is fine....unless your truck runs off it. Then suddenly you need the other battery.

Now granted, if the mcl ACR does its job...this shouldn't be a problem. But I'd rather not risk it. The whole point of dual batteries is to make sure your truck can start and run off of the isolated battery. The fridge can kill the other one all it wants. But you can drive away no problem every time.

 

Good points!

Thanks, man.

 

Been a learning experience day! Fixing a blown axle seal by myself. $400 later the axle is done - way better than $1100 dealership quoted me to do it though.

I really wish I did the rear diff breather relocate mod a long time ago, probably would've not allowed this to happen! $12 and 10 minutes could've saved me a lot

 

Sounds like a plan man. Txt me what time you will be getting after it.

 

Will do

 

maybe some ppl dont call em bullet hole wheels anymore

 

Are you calling me old?!

 

Maybe a picture would help.

 

Like these

 

Got something done today, didn't take long. Got something else on the way I should have installed by the weekend.

 

Old man

 

How dare you.

 

Pretty sure i'm older . lol

 

You are 28 aren't you ?