Stumble misfire condition

Does switching out the cps fix:

The flutter/stumble when cruising at speeds (almost feels like a misfire or tranny slipping slightly)

On aggressive acceleration the "stepping" feel of the engine where it seems to accelerate in steps. I don't really know how to describe it. Once you hit 3500 the vvti shit kicks in and its a different story but the acceleration up to that point is not smooth.

 

What RPM are you at? If I shifted out of 1st too early and got into 2nd below 2500 RPM or so, yes serious loss of power and at least a few seconds of time until I reached 2500/2800+ RPM and things were ok.

I think it's just the power band of the truck. I got the impression that the engine needed to be driven between 2800/3000 and 4500 RPM as much as possible. Felt counter intuitive for a truck.

 

It's not the shifting with lack of power. It's being in second gear accelerating and while your ramping up in rpms all the sudden it's like someone cut your gas and the engine stutters. It's a split second and then immediately takes back over. This is not in the middle of or going from a shift. It's also not the delay with the drive by wire response as that is felt on initial foot to pedal acceleration and I'm used to that and ok with it. It's the other that is frustrating. This sensor should be pretty easy to replace?

 

Yes, the CPS is easy to replace, just a couple small bolts after disconnecting the connector. Put new one in, reinstall bolts and click on the connector again.

 

Great. Could someone take a pic as to where it's located on my truck? Would be appreciated. i actually replaced this on an old Tundra but it was very visible and easy to get to...and someone showed me where it was at. Thanks.

 

(and i mis-spoke earlier, it is one bolt not two)

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-check-replace-your-cps-sensor.497659/

 

Thank you!

 

Exact same way I'd describe how mine feels, mines still at the dealer for the diff recall but I'm also getting the cps changed so once I get it back I'll post how mine feels

 

Is it possible that my cod sensor is bad even though I have a build date of 5/17? If I order the part from Toyota won't I be technically replacing existing sensor. I def have the stumbling cut out feeling when moving through the rpms in 2nd gear. I have a manual tranny. Sometimes it's very noticeable and other times it's barely there.

 

Update: After replacing the sensor, resetting the ECU and putting approximately 600 miles on the truck, it has returned to driving like complete garbage. As a matter of fact, it might be worse. It now idles noticeably rougher than before.

 

FWIW, replacing the sensor didn't get rid of that symptom for me. My truck is a very early 3rd Gen build, and as I found out, too early for the recall... yeah... so I replaced the sensor anyway with a "98".

 

For those of you fed up with the way the truck drives stock consider OVTune. While the truck will still stumble if you give it just enough gas to hold too high of a gear and lug it, the tune completely changes throttle response and eliminates delays, slightly increasing power and vastly improving drivability. It's very hard to quantify just exactly HOW the truck drives so much better, but it absolutely does. I've never HATED driving my truck, but certainly would get frustrated with many behaviors and lack of response to what my foot was telling it to do. That's all gone now. It drives like you'd have expected it to and if this was the stock map, I don't think we'd have any real complaints.

 

THIS^^^

JUST DO IT

(as I wait for my kit)

 

I second this advice.

 

Third. They should include OVs card in your owners manual folder when you buy the truck... cost of ownership. ha

 

Reviving this thread ... everyone still set on OV for curing the transmission stumble/stutter? $700 is a decent chunk of a down payment on a Tundra...

 

He's not fixed it yet, but he's working on it. He's fixed the stumble in several other areas of the map but the low RPM stumble's fix is still pending.

 

Wow - informative thread. I haven't even updated my profile pic or stats yet but I just traded my beloved 06 ORDC 6MT for a 17 ORDC 6MT and I simply cannot believe how horrific this thing is to drive below 2500 rpm. I have less than 70 miles on my truck and was hoping it might have been just working it's own bugs out and learning my driving habits but I simply can NOT drive this truck like I drove my 06. I like to shift early, ease into the throttle and tool around most of the time but this truck simply won't allow it. I'm in disbelief that this is just the way my truck will always behave and if I want it to drive worth a crap I have rev the snot out of it. I'm used to that from my 4cyl days of Hondas and VW's but damn. I'm trying to read more into this software fix but as mentioned above, 700$ is a steep price to pay just to get the truck to drive like I would expect a new vehicle to drive. Super bummed.

 

I hear ya, it's not a good situation. The problem, from what I can gather, is that the stutter/stumble gets worse as the computer "learns". It's really learning how low in the rpm range the truck can run without stalling. So it sounds like the more we drive, without resetting the ecu, the more zeroed in on the "near stall" - aka stumble/stutter - range the transmission program becomes.

Someone please jump in and correct if I'm wrong but I would think unless the entire learning/tranny programming 'goal' is shifted, the truck will always work it's way back to this condition. I hope this isn't the case.

Edit: Just saw you have a manual ... nvm.

 

Also, some general commentary: having driven a 2017 for 9 months now and having slowly come to the conclusion that my truck is operating as it was designed ... I honestly cannot believe that this product was released to the public for sale. It's mind boggling. I bought a tacoma because I just trusted Toyota and trusted that the value was there. Not anymore