Swapping brake lines

Does anyone have some info on this for third Gens? Is it identical in every way to 2nd Gens?

Looking for flare wrench sizes needed as well as what brake fluid to use. And possibly the process/what to watch out for (I hear the OR is super easy on 2nd Gens).

Any other useful tools are welcome.

 

You can measure the nut size by placing an open end wrench on it, then make sure you have the right size flare.

The master cyl should have the spec for the fluid on the cap. Guessing, but likely DOT 4.

My biggest concern would not be allowing the master to drain out during the process, which is difficult to do. Because once it's empty, the bleeding process is a pain, as the ABS system comes into play, and it takes something like Techstream to cycle the solenoids to get the air out of it.

 

That really doesn't sound like a fun task. I appreciate the logical answer for nut size though. I feel dumb lol.

 

Should be a 10mm flare nut on brake line and it easier to access the rear line if you drop the spare

 

So 3rd and 2nd gen are the same spec then? Same process as well?

 

Im not 100 percent sure but I think so. @Trident904 can you assist

 

10mm flare wrench. DOT3 Brake fluid. Super simple. I recommend clamping the stock lines with 2 lengths of steel tube and a couple pairs of vice grips so that the lower lines can be disconnected first and no fluid will run out. Once clamped, disconnect one of the lower connections and immediately connect the new line. Then undo the upper and immediately connect the new line. Repeat for the other line. See cave drawing below:

 

Leave the lid on master and vacuum will keep from draining to fast. Just work quickly.

 

Also, on the 3rd gen OR model, the master cylinder does some magical self bleeding thing on start up that makes self bleeding really quick and easy.