Radiator Flush...

Belt longevity will vary depending on mileage, weather, debris, etc... At every oil change (10K miles), I go over the engine components carefully, including belt, hoses, battery fluid level, air filter, wiring, etc... On the belts/hoses, look for cuts/cracks and glaze. Per the maker of SuperTech, the long life coolant has no silicates/phosphates. I've been using in my wife's 07 Lexus for about 50K miles - began using it when I replaced her radiator at about 120K; it now has 170K+. Gonna do a fresh flush on it this weekend.

 

If you do anything too a radiator when the engine or the radiator is hot,by adding anything warm or cool too them,it will pop your radiator every time.Wait till everything is cool BERFORE touching and adding anything.

 

What is the process if you find your fluid is a dark brown color. I have an 05 with 142k miles on it and at this point i fear there isnt hope for the coolant system... Im about to pay for neglecting this very important issue i can feel it

 

Drain the radiator,and refill with fresh coolant,drive a few days and then drain the radiator and drain the engine by opening the drain plugs on both sides of the block (google for their location) then just refill the radiator with fresh coolant,don't worry about the color of the coolant you have now,do the flush and be on your way.Also don't forget too purge your system for air by leaving the radiator cap off while the engine gets too operating temp with the heater on full blast.

 

Drain the entire system first. This includes the radiator - overflow tank - both sides of engine block + flush heater core. Your system is filthy.

Start with radiator - block - overflow tank. Be sure to pull the overflow tank and scrub it out. Baby bottle brush that can reach the bottom helps.

Once you have it drained - remove thermostat. You need to do this to run water thru the radiator and block. Once tstat is out - remove upper radiator hose. Put garden hose in the upper radiator hose and turn it on. Water will circulate and run out top of radiator. Let it run awhile. If the hoses are old and I suspect in your case they are - replace both upper and lower. I would also consider replacing radiator cap/tstat-gasket/radiator drain plug.

Once radiator and block are flushed remove both hoses at back going into heater core/ Flush it both ways. Consider replacing those hoses as well + any others that appear aged.

Reconnect hoses - install tstat - radiator drain plug/etc - put it all back together. Refill with Zerex Asian Formula coolant - every bit as good as dealer coolant. Owners manual shows 10 qt. capacity for most 4.0L 2nd Gen Tacomas. Check your owners manual for capacity. Pour the coolant into radiator very slowly. You'd be surprised how doing this helps eliminate air pockets. Fill overflow coolant jug to the full line. This will not overfill it. Once the engine has been fully warmed up and cooled off you will find that the coolant in the overflow tank will drop a good bit. Once it cools down - top up overflow tank 'til coolant is at the low mark. Drive truck 'til warmed up and top up coolant 'til it's at the full mark. OK for coolant to be at FULL mark if engine is fully warmed up. Monitor coolant level for the next few days. You may need to top up a few more times. If you are having to do that after 2 or 3 tops ups - check your hose connections and any other point in the system where coolant can escape.

If temp gauge goes beyond it's normal level you have air in the system. Elevate front of truck - pull radiator cap - warm up engine - blip accelerator pedal a few times. Best to first put an old sock over the radiator inlet like you would a skull cap on your head. This keeps coolant from flying all over the place. You can also buy an air bleed gadget that Lisle Tools sells. Lots of talk about this tool - maybe in this thread or others. I have one. Saves a lot of mess.

The procedure I have provided is for a cooling system that has been neglected over a long period of time. Doing all of this might help - then again - your radiator could be a mess and require rework at a radiator shop or replacing altogether.

You can do all of this yourself with simple hand tools - patience - time.

 

To restore a badly neglected cooling system flush it with a couple gallons of distilled white vinegar and distilled water. It will dissolve the scale buildup. Run the vinegar for 30 min - 1 hour, then a full flush with more distilled water, then back to coolant.

 

Thank you. Gunna take cair of it ASAP.

 

I wanted to say thanks to all of you for all your input.

 

Dam, im with Toyobluboys, i have 149k on it, bought it at 87k and havent even looked at the coolant until today.

 

Never ever, ever pour cold water into a hot engine, you're lucky just the radiator cracked, it is possible to crack the block doing that. If you must pour cold/cool water into a hot engine, do so with the engine running to minimize the risk. The sudden temperature change is what cracked your radiator.

 

Stupid question (as I'm sure all of mine are), but how is having the engine running going to minimize the risk? Isn't it going to still be hot (even more so?)
Also, wouldn't that be very bad to have a running engine with the water freshly drained out? I'm not doubting your method, I'm just genuinely wanting to know (always).

 

These guys on here are the BEST!

 

That's an awful lot of cock!

 

Not trying to be a perve or anything, but really! Who honestly read that very through answer and did not notice all that cock flying around? Almost poked my eye out!

Ok, ok, I'm done, I swear...

 

There are no stupid questions. A running engine helps to circulate the cold antifreeze and reduce the risk of thermal shock by mixing it with the remaining hot coolant. It's still a good idea to let the engine cool down if you can before adding coolant, the engine running trick helps some but isn't a foolproof method.
http://www.military.com/off-duty/autos/auto-repair-adding-liquid-to-a-cooling-system.html

 

Oh must be nice! Thanks for that input!

 

Great link! Thank you!

 

There is absolutely a block drain on the driver side. It is above, and in front of the starter, below the exhaust manifold. You have to use a mirror to see it and you can access the bolt while standing over the front driver fender.

I was gonna do mine today, but decided to hold off until I get a new thermostat. My plan:

-Drain radiator using driver side peckcock valve
-drain driver and passenger block drains
-remove thermostat from the housing
-fill with distilled water
-run with heat on max Until normal operating temp
-let cool
-Repeat steps 1 and 2
-install new thermostat
-fill with Toyota pink
-run for a couple minutes
-let cool
-top off coolant
-go for a drive
-let cool adequately
-recheck/add coolant

 

There are basically two styles. A glorified drain n fill, or where you open the hose and insert the machine.

Drain and Fill Style
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd4s4__j8DI

Full Flush
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTLDn3qErkk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4ZUNGE84iE

 

The pink is 50/50