Official Tennessee Thread

http://stores.advmonster.com/f11-fog-light-pair/

I wanted a real "fog" pattern with a strong upper cutoff so I can run them on the road out of the eyes of oncoming drivers. These look like they'll fit the bill. We shall see.

 

I want to be impatient and put this thing on, but the paint on the bolt heads and nuts are still curing. Question for any of you dude that are familiar with hardware: am i going to be good with metric 8.8 grade bolts for this thing? I wanted grade 8, but these were all i could find at blowes in the correct size and thread pitch. Also, do they even make metric hardware in those grades? From what i found in charts and schitt like that, theres pretty much grade 2, 5, and 8, then 8.8 and 10.9 metric (i know there's more out there though.


Pic:

 

Bruh.... 12-14 weeks indefinite.

Accurate @ tag though.

Will confirm next time I'm gonna try some more shits.

 

Haha, with all the rain we got, you might be wheelin on some parts. You mind if I tag along. I've seen some vids of dirt devil and it looks like it's mostly just public dirt roads. Nothing crazy. I'll be out in spring hill/colombia area anyways. House sitting for my girls parents.

 

So this just happened. It's officially an old man.

 

http://blog.delcity.net/all-about-types-of-wire

There is a graph on there. Match up your amp draw and length to see what gauge wire is recommended. For 1 amp plus some loss, 18 ga should be fine.

 

The hand drawings and Microsoft Paint skills are on fuckin point today

 

Did my own research and figured it out. So for those who want to know/give a shit:

The 2 bolts that hold the offroad tow hook in place are 304 stainless steel, i got 12mm x 1.25, 8.8 grade metric bolts (shorter) for the shackle bracket. According to all the charts i found, 8.8 metric is stronger than 304 stainless, and is equivalent to a grade 5 SAE bolt.

Proof of findings:

304 stainless markings are circled:



Charts on SAE grades and metric



Using the above chart, proof that 8.8 metric is stronger than 304 stainless



Metric to SAE Equivalency chart

 

Question is do you want a bolt that will sheer or a bolt that will bend. On a hard pull the force will sheer a harder bolt where as the softer bolt will bend but hold.

 

Pretty sure it would bend, but using the correct shit aka: snatch strap.... i imagine that the bolts would be the last thing to worry about, since the strap takes the majority of the stress, then the shackle takes some of the shock, the shackle on the other end takes some of the shock... yes, the bracket and bolts take some. But I think it would be ok, right? Physics, it not my strongest subject.


It's got to be better than a trailer hitch shackle

 

You shouldn't rely on the bolts for a pull at all. They just create a high coefficient of friction between the pieces of metal bolted together. I'd need some good proof to see why a receiver shackle wouldn't be a strong option. Also, properly used tow straps generate less force than a snatch strap.

 

I guess i don't need to worry.... it's just going to be for pulling out @dirty deeds anyway

 

Should be fine as long as you place it in a smart location

 

Goes where the offroad tow hook goes on the right side. Pichars tomorrow when I get it on. Same spot where @beertimecontinuum had his.

 

Sooooo went to Superlift/Hot Springs ORV with some Jeep guys today! Pretty freaking awesome park, lots of leaning and tires off the ground, a little too tipsy at some spots. Scratched the hell out of my skids and landed on my rocker panel pretty hard and crushed one spot Time for sliders I guess

 

You're not wrong but all the material properties you quoted are tensile properties. Your bracket is more likely to create a shear load condition on the bolts. Well, depending on the angle of the pull when using the bracket, 1 bolt might be in tension while the other is being bent. Or both might get pulled in direct shear load (ignoring the tensile load of the pre-clamping forces from when you torqued down the bolts). If you want stainless, 304 is stronger than 316 but 316 resists corrosion much better. 17-4 stainless is far stronger than both (it's used for pins on uniball style UCAs) and it's corrosion resistance should fall in the middle depending on how it was processed. I use grade 8 SAE for most stuff I add to my truck but that's mainly because I like the yellow zinc on it for durability against corrosion. Have used some 304 SS and some 10.9 metric stuff too though.

^he's right you know. Engineers sometimes intentionally design in a weakness so that when something fails, it fails in a predictable or preferable manner.

^he may be right too. Different type of energy transmission. Kinetic, potential, impulse, blah blah blah

But I ain't giving no damn physics, material science, or engineering lesson. You all get gold stars for science today.

 

looks fun. never heard of it.

 

They actually changed the name to hot springs offroad park a few years ago. It's just outside of hot springs, ar.

 

wanted to, but they didn't have the right thread pitch for the existing nuts in the frame. Should have went to fasenal.

 

Mine was welded