'03 4x4 DblCab Brake Rotor Removal

I need to replace the rotors on my truck. Like it says, it's an '03 Taco 4x4 DblCab. Anything "special" I need to be aware of? Any "special" tools before I get into this? I'm very mechanical so I'm sure I can handle the process. I just didn't want to get into it and realize I didn't have the tool or tools I needed.

Thanks
Vinny

 

their are special tools but you dont have to have them. A strait srew driver will work. Just leave one side together so you have something to look at when putting it back 2gether. And welcome to TW

 

Thanks. The Haynes manual says all I need to do is remove the caliper and the rotor comes off. Is this true AND this simple?

 

yep...its a free standing type rotor. if its on there good.....tap with a hammer to break it free.

 

Good deal.

Also, is it true that rotors can warp when the wheels are put on with an air wrench? I have always heard that. I believe Wally World did this when I had them R&B my tires. Ever since I had them do this last summer the pulsing and chattering has gotten progressively worse and the bad thing about it, I had JUST gotten new brakes a month or so prior and they were SMOOOOOOTH.

 

yeah.....it can and does happen. its really best, that if using an impact wrench.......just snug the lugs up with that and then torque them.

 

could you explain how that happens? i'd think as long as you apply the same torque to all the lugs, it wouldn't be an issue. ..so what's the process by which this happens?

also, from what i've read, there is a difference in a warped rotor and a rotor with material build up caused by deposition of pad material to the rotor.. ...warped rotors won't cause pulsations. ....ones with depositon of materials will.


taking from another site.. not sure of accuracy ..but it's worth reading.

this much i know for fact. ..based on my experience.

brembo blanks and stock pads are not a good combo. ..pulsation within 1 month of city driving. this is probably moreso due to the brake pads as opposed to the rotors. when i looked at the rotors when i took them off, it was obvious that there was material transfer from the pad to the rotor ..and it wasn't an even transfer. ..this is what was causing the pulsation.

i changed up last time and went with centric premium rotors and porterfield racing pads. i've run this combo over a year and my brakes are like new. ..no pulsing ...no vibes ...it stops as if it were a sports car.

i also put centric premium rotors and ebc yellow stuff pads on my jeep w/33" tires ...i've run that combo for almost a year and have had no pulsing ...no vibes ....it also stops on a dime.

at last inspection, the rotors on both vehicles showed no signs of deposits. ..they were clean as can be and smooth as silk.

 

Loosen the lug nuts, jack up the front, place jack stand, remove wheel, take bolts holding the caliper, hang up the caliper and bang on the rotors with a rubber mallet:

http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/frozenrotors/frozenrotors.htm

 

thats the thing.........most folks....myself included, dont use the same amount of pressure with an impact gun. it doesnt matter that you have it dialed in for a certain torque....if you keep hammering on it....you aint gonna have evenness. most half inch impact guns....and the electrics are set to way the hell over what lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to....ours which is around 85 ft. lbs on the 6 lug trucks.

 

Ive used a air gun on mt lugs a few time but at a low setting and my gun max isnt all that powerful anyways. But I make sure to tighten evenly in a cross pattern and then stug them up with the torque wrench. But usually the air gun does the trick. And I havent had any issues.