Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

The t100 did come with a hauling package but the years are very specific and debated on. I think the problem is most people buy the wrong master cylinder and it's not the actual one ton version. The T100 tons MC has a 1"1/6 bore and has a good size resevoir. I knew some more specifics when I did the actual swap a couple years ago but some of that information has fallen out of my head. There was one website out there that I was trying to find last night but I couldn't and I think it was a 4x4wire article. It had all the mechanical advantages listed in some big crazy chart for a bunch of different setups the guy tried. Pretty sure he was running GM calipers dana 44/60 combo.

 

It is the 4X4wire article. I was looking into it the other day and it still has all the good info.

The part # for the aftermarket T100 MC I have clearly shows "1 ton". The bore size is 1.063.

Doing a quick search online I cannot find any aftermarket T100 1 ton MCs that has a 1 1/6 bore size. In only see either 1.063 for the 1 ton version and 1" for all others.

Could it be only the OE ones came with the 1 1/6? Dunno....

 

I'm guessing it was a typo and he meant 1 1/16".

1/6th is an odd fraction to use on something.

 

Oz,
1.063 equals 1-1/16th so you have the correct MC.

 

I recently did the same in my 02 tacoma. Still running the stock drum brakes, but running Tundra brakes in the front on a diamond axle. I barely have any pedal movement before braking. I barely touch the pedal and it comes to a stop. Any clue on what causes this? I am running a manual proportioning valve, but haven't had a chance to mess with it yet.

 

That makes sense!

Damn apparently i suck at math lol

This confirms I have the correct one. TKS

I believe that pedal stiffness/softness is directly related to how much fluid the MC is pushing in relation to the size of calipers. Could it be that the MC bore now is too big for your calipers? How much bigger are the tundra calipers?

Also, according to that article, if your pedal is too hard after swapping to a larger MC a dual-diaphragm booster can fix that because it draws more vacuum to assist. Do you know what booster do you have? I have a T100 dual diaphragm booster I could sell you

Some say our MCs are not designed for rear disk brakes. So a manual proportioning valve is needed. It should work also with drum brakes? Dunno...

I've been told it takes a while to adjust the proportioning valve until you get the right amount of pressure going to the rear brakes. You want more pressure in the front than the rear.

 

The stock Tacoma mc works fine with fj80 rear discs, not using manual prop valve or a residual valve that everyone on the internet says you need. I installed both and the residual valve caused the brakes to stay engaged, and the manual prop valve leaked like a sieve so I pulled it off.

Moral of the story don't believe everything you read on the internet.

 

I know for a fact that my rear brakes engage before by front brakes. It feels weird and I don't like it how the truck behaves during sudden stops.

I believe a manual proportioning valve could help solve that. I am not wanting to get one to be cool

 

Obviously they are needed in some cases, just trying to temper the whole "if I have discs of any kind I need to gut the entire system" mantra. I fell for that and spent money and time on parts i didn't need to. My rears just barely lock up which is nice.

 

I'm swapping in a FZJ80 axle into my rig now so I'll find out what the deal is with the brakes soon too. Excited to have disks instead of drums that have to be cracked open every time you want to pull an axle shaft.

 

Agree. At times people just go crazy buying stuff to fix things that don't need to be fixed.

If you had bigger disk brakes in the rear you would probably have the same issues that I have.

But it is good to know your MC does the work well for both front/rear brakes without any other modifications.

 

Bolt them up, bleed, slam on the brakes a few times, park in the garage and slam a beer.

Drums suck total ass, good riddance.

 

im Running a 97 T100 MC with a 94 pickup booster i want to try the T100 booster to see if it will give me a little more assist past that im super happy with the way my truck stops. Oh and i did do ther 14 bolt disk brake swap which made my pedal sink a little less.

 

My 14bolt came from factory with disk brakes. The axle came from a HD 2500 chevy truck. The calipers seem big...but I do not have a point of reference to compare them with other 14bolt calipers. I am wondering if part of the issue is that my rear brakes are really big and draw a bunch of fluid compared to smaller calipers. Not having a manual proportioning valve to control pressure to the rear brakes is probably not helping either.

Having said that, the T100 MC made the pedal a bit firmer, overall better braking response. I just would like to have that factory feel again at some point.

By the way...I have a T100 dual-diaphragm booster available that I did not use because I already had a dual diaphragm in in my truck. I could sell it to you if you are interested.

 

I supposedly have a t100 booster. The one I ordered from RockAuto looks similar, but it has a different vacuum valve so I'm unsure. It's a reman unit. How much do you want for your booster?

I wouldn't think the proportioning valve would have much impact on pedal feel, but I still need to adjust that. It's driveable, but I'm unsure how it'll act on the trails.

 

As Oz knows, I have the OEM MD (13/16) with a Wilwood PV and everything is perfect. It did take a bit of time to dial in the PV. The brake pedal feel is as OEM.
I do have the Tundra 231's up front with discs in the rear.

 

My comment about the proportioning valve was more about whether or not is really needed with rear brake drums. I did not mean to imply it would affect brake pedal feel directly.

Check your PM about the dual diaphragm booster.

I am really curious to see why is it that my 99' base model came with a dual-diaghragm booster and 1" MC. It seems like after 2000 they changed to smaller booster and MC?

Your set up is really cool. I like how clean and functional it is.

 

I am wondering if the difference has something to do with a manual or auto trans.
Dunno.

 

I'm curious now about my 98 base 2.7 manual truck....

The 02 4Runner I had before had a really weird booster to work with the ATRAC system.

I think Toyota just wanted to do their best Ford impression and took whatever was on the shelf.

 

If it's like mine it should have a 1" MC and dual-diaphragm booster already