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Cheapo Hi-Lift mount FOR bedrails

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by nvdeserted, Mar 29, 2010.

  1. Mar 29, 2010 at 1:29 PM
    #1
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Thought I'd make this mod. Super cheap, easy, and reliable. For Taco's with the bed rail system. You will need 2 carriage bolts, 2 washers, and 2 wing nuts.

    First get 2 4" carriage bolts with a head that fits tightly into the bedrail (slide it in at the end after popping off the little plastic end piece)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    First take the 'foot' or base off the jack. Make sure to put the pin back on the base and put the base in your truck somewhere!
    [​IMG]

    Finally, mount your jack = done.
    [​IMG]

    I've been using this for 2 years, works great.
     
  2. Mar 29, 2010 at 1:30 PM
    #2
    blackwatertaco

    blackwatertaco If you ain't stuck, You ain't tryin hard enough.

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    Nice idea...
     
  3. Mar 29, 2010 at 1:33 PM
    #3
    Capita

    Capita Well-Known Member

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    Very awesome idea. I'll be doing this as soon as I get that jack. Thanks.
    +Rep Added.
     
  4. Mar 29, 2010 at 2:00 PM
    #4
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Glad you guys like it. Helps to even out my taco lean a little too. And for you folks with the shorter jacks, they should fit across the cab end of the bed.

    Also, for those without shells you might want to rig up a lock system for it somehow or just take it out of the truck when it's not needed.

    The CARRIAGE bolts stay in place by themselves without the jack on but you might want to drill a wood block or something to put over the bolts so they don't impail your dog.
     
  5. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:07 PM
    #5
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Nice mod , for the ultra picky like me , those are actually carriage bolts not lags and they look like they are 1/10 " under 4 " :rolleyes:

    ( before I get flamed as a dick , it's an inside joke )

    OZ
     
  6. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:15 PM
    #6
    chip01822

    chip01822 Well-Known Member

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    just a small correction, a lag bolt is like a screw with a hex head used for wood applications, just didnt want anyone wanting to do this mod end up with the wrong material.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:17 PM
    #7
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Good call Chip ,

    OZ
     
  8. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:17 PM
    #8
    ToucanV13

    ToucanV13 You think I was rollin out here naked?

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  9. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:34 PM
    #9
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Ha! OZ you F-er! Yea it's a 3 and 9/10" water screw. My bad.

    I went and fixed all my posts... Incase OZ-T wants to do this mod.
     
  10. Mar 29, 2010 at 6:43 PM
    #10
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    But it definitely would have kept a couple people busy trying to get a wing nut threaded!:D
     
  11. Apr 21, 2010 at 9:06 AM
    #11
    bakerla

    bakerla Man, Myth, Legend

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    good idea. i used the same concept, but with a few additional pieces...
     
  12. Apr 21, 2010 at 9:10 AM
    #12
    Country

    Country Well-Known Member

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    I dunno fellas,those rails are not attached very well to the truck I would be afraid of it bending when wheeling
     
  13. Apr 21, 2010 at 5:22 PM
    #13
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's what I thought originally but they are pretty damn strong. Plenty strong to hold a hilift anyway.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2010 at 5:26 PM
    #14
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    This is exactly how I mounted mine in my bed, about a year ago. Only difference is I used a few more nuts- A nylock one to hold the carriage bolt to the bed rail, another nylock to space the jack away from the bed rail a tad(lets you keep the base on the jack), and lastly a washer and wing nut to easily secure and remove the jack. Should be pics in my build thread if anyone wants to have a look.
     
  15. Apr 21, 2010 at 5:48 PM
    #15
    Navigator

    Navigator Well-Known Member

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    Get me a metric adjustable wrench and I'll fix that! :D
     
  16. Sep 20, 2010 at 2:13 PM
    #16
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    :)awesome
     
  17. Sep 21, 2010 at 1:21 PM
    #17
    fjm0008

    fjm0008 Well-Known Member

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    I made some brackets and also attached them to the rail without any problems. It is very solid. I needed to lower the jack enough to fit in the gap of my UWS box.



    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jan 3, 2011 at 5:12 PM
    #18
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    That is pretty damn cool... I just bought me a Hi lift today. THanks for the insight to cheaper way to mount the hi lift
     
  19. Jan 5, 2011 at 9:54 AM
    #19
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    SO i took your idea an Ran with it tell me it if looks ok or do something else.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Feb 11, 2011 at 5:51 PM
    #20
    crf69

    crf69 scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip

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    ummm yeah
    i am glad i found this thread.......save$$$$$$$
     

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