Long Travel BS Thread

also very easy "fix" to get that bish toit like a toigah.

 

@jberry813

 

In the machining world .01 is huge

 

.......as you can see by the video of the loose uniball

 

Sorry but it does not change the fact that the cup was machined improperly. Did you watch his video ? I don't think I would define that play as " very very slight ". I am not aware of any kits that require the use of a shim to secure the uniball ? Uniballs generally have to be pressed in and out because they fit so snug. If you reference the video he posted it appears as if the uniballs were free floating in the cup. Now, that either happened because the cup was machined with too large of an ID ( in addition to the clip groove being incorrect ) or it was caused due to the free play wallowing out the cup ? Either way it just does not seem like a solid long term " trust it with your life " component.

 

Sorry, but it is not addressing the real problem. Did you ever replace the uniball in your TC kit ? ...can't be done without a press or at least a large c clamp and sockets a.k.a bubbas backyard body shop bearing press

 

not that it helps anything, but the uniballs fell right out with the snap clip removed. There was no side to side movement, only up and down. Now there is zero movement.

Not arguing either way, just along for the ride.

 

Sorry bro, don't mean to " rag " on you or direct any of this at you. IMO they should be recalling those arms and replacing them.

 

i did not, they were still in good condition when i sold them.

Also note that im learning as i go on this so im not saying one way is right or wrong. You all know far more than I and i am soaking it up like a sponge.

 

Yeah I tried the method of pressing the uniballs out with a mallet and a socket and that was not happening when I was replacing the uniballs in the tc arms. Needed a press and a lot of pressure.

 

Sounds like they messed up on the inner diameter too

 

Called Advanced Fiberglass to ask if they still make those hoods and they didn't buy the mold from Glassworks - looks like you have a collector's item now lol!

 

im kinda dumb an all, but ID should be 0.001" / 0.002" smaller than OD of race (BEARING/uniball OD). Shimming vertical clearance to stop Z-AXIS play wouldn't be a big deal imo.. i'm sure there's lots of UCA's out there with a gap between race and lock-ring/snap ring/spiral retaining ring etc and it goes un-noticed as bump stops are hit before any real upward pressure reaches the UCA cup.

 

Pretty big difference between thousandths and hundredths

 

None of mine are that loose at all. They all had to be pressed in.

 

I don't really understand the meaning of your response but thanks i guess?

 

I don't think i've ever met a suspension related bearing that didn't need to be pressed in!

 

First of all, you're talking about OD and ID on the uniball and cup in thousandths, while the issue here was the height of the uniball in relation to the cup it sat in required a .01 spacer to seat firmly, which is an issue.