Cab mount chop on a brand new truck?

Is it crazy to get a cab mount chop on a brand new truck? Does it void the frame warranty? Who's done it?

Unfortunately it seems the best option to get rid of all rubbing issues. I have a boss 2.5 coilover with 275x70x17's and its still hitting the cab mount off-road, when the wheel is turned over bumps. Driver side wheel locks up for a second when this happens and that is no good. I could move the caster forward instead, but that might affect handling.

I can't believe toyota hasn't redesigned the cab mount by the 3rd gen, knowing many people want to upgrade their wheels.

 

Positive caster is what you need from the alignment

 

oh duh, thanks for that. I've corrected it.

 

@DiffLock , I have a 2017 trd sport 4x4, upgraded to 33x12.5r17 toyo's; had to take it in for cab mount chop and completely took off any rubbing from tires. I can do a full U-turn with no rubbing, high speed turning when off-roading, etc.

Did the positive caster for the alignment resolve your rubbing or you still have issues?

 

Haven't done it yet... not sure where the caster is currently.

 

don't shy away from the cab mount chop. it'll definitely give you lot of clearance. and after it's painted black, you can't even tell you had it done! cost around $200 here in southern Cali.

 

If they notice you did it, yes. You can't just cut pieces off your truck and weld on it and expect them to still warranty the stuff you cut and welded.

 

I'm pretty sure the Toyota engineers decided it was better to have a cab mount designed to keep the tire, wheel, brake rotor and axle out of the front seat in the event of an accident than make it easier to put on big tires. Everyone has their priorities. Toyota made safety one of them instead of ease of modding. The cab mount is designed to keep all that rotating mass out of the cabin when you have an offset front crash.

 

Did a chop on my 2016!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-build-bs-thread.427983/page-26#post-15758821

 

Where did you get yours done? Did you regear after adding bigger tires?

 

A chop isn't as bad as you think... it wouldn't void a warranty if the cab mount caused the failure. It's actually fairly easy and could be made stronger with a 1/8" plate welded properly.

Positive caster and wheel back spacing is key to remove rubbing issues.

 

If you want something easier buy a Jeep next time, knock the fenders off and lift it with parts found in a dumpster.

 

Who does it for $200?

 

I did not have to regear my taco. Runs smooth, haven't had any issues. Got it done at Southbay truck and four wheel in Hawthorne, CA. and just to add, I did not have to hammer my pinch weld flat either. only minor fender trimming.

 

Oh, nice. That is just down the street from me. Thanks for the tip! You got 33s? I assume you are happy with the work. Welds look nice? Did you supply the inserts for the chop or did they cut their own?

 

Did you do UCAs? Setting alignment properly with the SPC/LR UCA’s gained me 1/2” or more of clearance from my cab mount when I was rubbing my 285s. You get the distance by maxing out the factory alignment cams on the LCA and then making your adjustments for caster and camber with the ball joint on the UCA.

Now I don’t have any rubbing on the cab mount. AND I didn’t hack up my new truck! (not that I would have hesitated if it still rubbed...)

Cutting metal (especially frame and body) creates potential rust spots on these trucks and being from snowy and salty New England, ya can’t have that!

Pelfreybilt bumpers arrived today to take care of the rubbing on the fender liner!

 

@bradshawnh yeah I have total chaos UCA's. I'll see what I can do alignment-wise before the CMC. If you got 285's to fit, surely my 275's should. Nice inferno BTW!

 

Just do the CMC. A skilled shop will be able to do it and nobody would ever tell.
Don't feel bad at all.. try chopping off your front bumper, drilling holes in fenders and cutting the back queterpanels

 

Thanks! Yeah, I would suggest going to an alignment shop that specializes in off-road stuff...your average tire shop or whatever probably doesn't have the know how other than putting the arrows inside the green boxes. You can go outside the factory specs to get your fitment correct. I did absolute 0 degree camber (factory spec has it not at 0 for some reason) and about 3-3.5 degrees positive caster. Toe sticks with factory spec.

Also help us out, what offset/wheels are you running? Offset is a big piece of the rubbing picture.

And @mesojdm you aren't wrong...just senseless to do a CMC if you don't need to, sometimes you just need to get your alignment straightened out! Start with the easy first.

Back to the original question...the only thing I think you might have an issue with is the "corrosion perforation" part of the warranty. They'd call out any rust in that area as attributed to your modification in an instant. The frame is dipped, you can't get paint into the inside of the mount after you chop the cab mount and patch it back up.

If you live in a place with no rust, chop on and never look back!

 

Wheel width and offset?