What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I was thinking of using bread or wet newspaper - two other options I read about that are less messy I guess lol. How about the rear main seal - I'm thinking hole saw and plywood to get it down flush with the crank / flywheel mount and tap it in from there...

 

FWIW it was easy to clean up, two napkin job and one was for brake cleaner. The cavity behind the bearing is actually pretty big all things considered so make make sure whatever you put behind the bearing can be pulled back out if it doesn't work or it'll be hard to use this method. I didn't bother with my rear main because there was zero signs of leakage and I'd rather not screw around with it. But on the 3RZ the seal has a little housing that pulls off on the bottom and allows you to maneuver the seal into place, makes it so there isn't much work needed to make it flush too. There are seal installation tools though for making things like that flush, the crank juts out past the seal though.

 

Removed old green coolant(it wasn't me) and added Toyota long life. Drained transmission fluid and added Redline MT90.

 

Yeah I went to HF and their biggest seal driver was 3 1/8" or something and this one is like 3 1/2"+. It's not leaking at all.... I might
though.

 

Ooh and I added an oem IS300 shift knob. I was nervous when I ordered it but it worked out. New black leather boot is on the way.

 

Find the backside of something similarly sized, like a 3.5in hole saw. Most of this stuff can be done just as well with a little ingenuity and some rinky dink shit from the garage haha. I used a 22mm socket and an old crossmember nut and bolt the other day as a jig/press to fix a dished coil bucket hole. Just cranked on the bolt as it was run through the socket and hole so it would press it flat.

 

Yeah I thought of a hole saw, but they're mucho expensive for one that big lol. I'll keep an eye out for something cheap - maybe a good piece of pvc like a plug.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-PVC-DWV-MIPT-Cleanout-Plug-C4818HD4/100344823

Even better - local in stock:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/4-in-dia-PVC-Cleanout-Plug-Fitting/3130797

Thanks man I was about to just make a hack move. Motivation back up to a good level lol!

 

So I've got the PO420 code Where should I start looking to diagnose?

 

Google? LOL jk
I've never had that code but I've seen it on here and it seems that it could be an exhaust leak, a bad o2 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. Start troubleshooting and eliminating possibilities.

 

I bought one from Ebay- included new tank, fill neck, lid, motor, and hose. The description has a typo- it does not come with a fluid level float sensor(they stick all the time anyway, just zip tie yours upside down to the frame and the dash light will not come back on).

 

Mine was the O2 sensor. There are two on the 3.4l, typically the sensor after(downstream) the catalytic converter will be ok. You can check the ohms and figure out which sensor is bad. One thing to keep in mind, the O2 sensor is likely failing due to the catalytic converter stopping up(or not allowing the heat to move thru quick enough). I replaced the upstream sensor, and also bought a direct fit catalytic converter from Autozone for just over $100. You can install both parts, two bolts + 3 bolts, just wear glasses or shield cause it'll be raining dirt underneath. Pretreat the nuts, bolts, threads with Kroil or the likes, they'll snap off quick from years of high exhaust heat.

Goodluck,
Malcolm

 

I need to do this too( i need to relocate it). With the new bumper installed my stock one is peeping out just waiting to be punctured.

 

That certainly sounds better than $1000+ I was hearing.

 

FWIW when my upstream O2 (Air/Fuel Ratio) sensor went it threw a P0031 code so maybe the P0420 code is the downstream O2 sensor.

 

You can use the racing heat shield material (cut to size, and its flexible) with self-tapping sheet metal screws, or just relocate it. It's tight under the 3.4 hood, add another layer of heat shield if you get close to the exhaust manifold.

 

That's BS! O2 sensor was around $150 at O'reillys, and the cat was just over $100 at Autozone. All new parts. You could even take the cat to a muffler shop and let them weld it on for $50-75. I did it all myself. While I was at it, I put on a magnflo muffler with chrome tip for a little sound. Just watch those bolts, Toyota will put stainless bolts and parts on the exhaust system and they seize up.

 

Unplug the sensor and check it with an ohm meter. you'll know right away. It seems like the ohm were 13 or so.

 

A picture or two O2 sensor & new cat ...I put my old heat shield on the new cat. You can do this

 

I think ill go with the Kia sportage reservoir bottle or try the ebay listing posted here. Someone here did a write up showing a 93-94 Kia reservoir fits where the empty void is near the airbox.

 

The $1000+ was directed at his rear hub leaking oil everywhere, not the P0420 code:

The CEL and the hub were mentioned in the same post (#128056) but are unrelated.