3rd gen brake rotors not serviceable?

I'm not sure to be honest. All of the cast iron we machine has been in service for 50+ years.

New products for the same application tend to be super thick medium carbon steel.

We get the oddball order for a new cast iron, but only when custom ordered. I've seen maybe 2 in the past 12 years.

Whatever the old material is, I've seen up to 1/16 out of parallel with uniform thickness. This on a 30 inch diameter flange that is 3 inches thick. Torque spec for the bolt circle was something ridiculous like 1700 ft lb.

 

They exist, but mostly for water/low pressure applications I think. But grey iron valves are pretty rare. I usually see WCB and suchlike. Probably not a big market for big-ass gate valves that only hold 200psi.

 

I'm assuming the only people requesting them simply want to stick with the exact model that served them well. I can't imagine the upcharge for it (my employer owns Fisher Valve).

 

Cool, I've done third-party testing on some of the stuff you worked on probably, one of my customers is a big valve rebuilder down here. Cut a lot of perfectly good Fishers apart to check 'em!

 

I am going way off topic but i have a Carbon Steel frying pan which is awesome, has the same characteristics of a Cast Iron pan but is a little bit lighter.

 

I believe it. I'm pretty certain old woks are carbon steel. All the same benefits minus the superior heat retention I would imagine.

 

I had a 1997 Gen 1 4x4 with 251,000 miles and I probably changed the front disc brake pads 4-5 times I guess from the original 12,000 miles when I bought it almost new....

Never did I once take the rotors off and have them turned....Always worked perfect with absolutely no issues.

And I never changed the rear shoes at all...

 

I did the front brakes on my 94 pickup/ hilux 2 years ago... and started having issues with brakes 10k miles later.

Ripped the drums apart and they were fine. I replaced drums and pads anyway ... still screwed up.

It was the front brakes again, ha. Lesson learned.

 

I'm going to share with you the process I use for deglazing the rotors. And it is important to deglaze when you install new pads. Now, this not for removing deep groves. Are ya ready?
Angle grinder... there I said it. Before you get all bent out of shape, I not talking about removing a lot of material. It's more like pecking or scraping machine ways. In the end I will have a uniform pattern of grind marks all around on both sides. I've been doing this for years with good results and I only do it once as the next pad change I get new rotors.
Maybe not everyone can do this but it works for me as they perform like new rotors.

 

The reason for even wanting to turn the rotors in the first place was because I was getting a very harsh pulsating in the steering wheel and pedal. At highway speeds, if I lightly touched the pedal, the wheel shook like crazy. My truck has 39,000 on it and it's almost all highway. And not like the person lying in the for sale ad that says all miles are highway. I commuted from Phoenix to Los Angeles nearly every week for 9 months, so when I say almost all highway, I mean it. The pads were like new so very little wear. New rotors and pads fixed the issue but it's strange to me how it started in the first place.

 

Crazy if true. Just crack the bleeders open on the caliper and then press the pistons in.

 

I actually have a tool that presses the pistons in and they went in very easily without having to open the bleeders.

 

That's what I was wanting to hear. I have the same tool, works like a champ just haven't had to do the brakes on the taco yet

 

It worked fine. All I did was open the cap on the reservoir.

 

Keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir. As the pads wear, the level drops. It's a good indicator

 

Hey OP, when I had this exact same thing happen to my 2006 Taco, it turned out to be a corroded pin that the brake pads slide on...

I had a guy do a brake job and he re-used the corroded pins instead of replacing them...

End result was the pad would not slide in properly and I got 1-sided braking from that caliper..... Shook like crazy... especially at high speed with minimal brake pedal pressure.

Fix was to replace those damn pins and lube them properly..!!

 

I just used Channel Lock pliers...

 

C-clamp? Worked for me on my old Ranger.