ECT Mod -- ON ALL the time

I live in the country and use it all the time for the hills and curves. Basically, anytime I won't be going over 60mph, it's on. Same for traffic. It's on. I'm running 265/70/17 KO2's and always get 18-21 mpgs with my kind of driving. I don't baby it either. Also a big fan of S mode.

G.

 

google aeromotive send them a pic of the plug they will sell you the pigtail plug match I use the all the time at work

 

Already sourced them and have OEM male/female connectors in route. Playing with an aurdino mini right now so it can do auto turn on, and also have a disable mode. I'll post up pics when I get the plug and play module done!

 

Can you use a 40amp relay instead?

 

I drove about a week with the ECT switch on. I noticed more power and that I was getting about 1 to 2 more on the MPG, (sometimes 4 more MPG) I was at 17 MPG. With ECT 19 to 20. I have seen 26 MPG I think I was in grandpa mode.

I think the increase is because I did not have to stomp on the gas to get the engine and the transmission up to speed. I drive about 60 miles per day with 15 of that on city streets the rest is on the freeway commuting. My standard freeway speed is 75 and up to 8X MPH. Any slower on the 101 in Phoenix will get you pushed off the road.

I pulled the trigger on parts and built this wire harness to the OP’s spec. Except on the Red power line I put a “Return to Dealer Switch” to take it back to specs. Thanks for the idea Sig916.

Also thanks to Mesojdm (OP) for doing the research and development. I’m really stoked about this.

Adendum--I drove in to work today 24 miles on the freeway and 7 on the city streets. I got 21 MPG and enjoyed the power.


Parts
12V relay--

$10 Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A

Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A $4.14
Pac TR7 module-- PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Output Module for Video Bypass $16.50
Switch-- Gadgeter 20 Pcs 12V 20A Amps On/Off/ 2 Position Terminal Round Rocker LED Toggle Switch Blue & Red $10.98 (bag of 10)
16 awg wire
Relay connectors
(other wire maintenance consumables... positap connectors, zip ties, wire tubes, Heat Shrink, splices, etc)


How To:
1)Wire up Relay;
Pin 86: Ground
Pin 85: -->blue wire of Tr7
Pin 30:--> Pink wire on ECT button (pin 4)
Pin 87:--->White/black wire on ECT button(pin 1)

From TR7 - Blue wire to SPDT pin 85;

Blue ground to Aux Power Outlet (cig lighter) ground

green wire and red wire to red wire cig lighter power

Red power wire from the Aux Power Outlet (cig lighter) has a “Return to Dealer Switch”

Power from the Aux Power Outlet has a harness to the “Return to Dealer Switch” Not shown below.


I built the harness as shown above. It is different from OP’s, just my preference. It fit great behind the AC panel. It took about an hour to build the harness and 30 min to splice in.


Install

Step 1

Remove the bezel around the stereo control head. Use a plastic pry bar. It just pulls off.

Then pull the AC panel with a plastic pry bar. Loosen the plastic molding beside the steering wheel and pull easy. This one is a bear. Disconnect the 3 plugs for the Push to Start and AC on the panel.




Step 2

Pull the plugs for the ECT and the Aux Power Outlet. The Aux Power Outlet has quick connect prong type connections in the plug.



Step 3

Positap the Aux power wires for power and ground as per schematic

I was thinking about taping directly into this. I ended up splicing using positap connectors. This would have been easier because ther was little slack in the wires even after trimming the protective wire sleeve back.

Then positap the pink wire and the black/white striped wire as per schematic

The power lead to the TR7 module has a splice where I added a harness for a “Return to Dealer Switch”



Step 4

Drill a hole to start the hole for the “Return to Dealer Switch”. I used my drimmel to make a starter hole (my bit walked a bit. be careful) then used a sanding bit to make the hole bigger until the switch fit. Drill a little see if it fits…Wash rinse, repeat till the switch fits.

Then I fed the 18 in harness through the dash to the ECT on harness. I cut about 4 in off the “Return to Dealer Switch” harness. I wanted to be sure it reached (this was my second attempt at the “Return to Dealer Switch” harness. (The original one was too short)



Return to Dealer Switch” In a inconspicuous spot. It looks like a security system switch.

 

^ right on! I am close to having a P-n-P version, so you won't have to drill a hole and mount a switch. Just hold ECT button down for a few seconds to disable it completely.
Good write up though.

 

YES, Plug n Play!

 

The Aux Power connector has spade connectors. It would be easy to plug and play here. Female for the plug that goes to a small harness to power the
TR7 Module and a male to connect to the AUX outlet.

All we need now is the ECT plug male and female.

Wish I would have thought of this on Saturday.

 

No need to tap the CIG lighter. My new Version 2.0 will just be an ECT "T harness". Pop the button out, plug it in...snap ECT button back in the hole. done.

 

Hey Mesojdm,
Thank you for doing the work and sharing your method. I followed your instructions, but I’m having an issue. I have the red/green wires from TR7 to the positive wire of cig lighter (verified +12v at TR7 plug with multimeter) and black wire from TR7 to the ground wire of cig lighter (verified with -12v at TR7 plug).

I can’t get my TR7 to pulse the TR7’s blue wire with +12v.

I tested the relay by manually pulsing the blue wire with +12v and with the truck’s ignition on, the ECT light came on immediately. Another manual pulse would turn off ECT.

I bought the TR7 new off Amazon and pulled it right out of the retail packaging. I looked over the instructions, made sure it was NOT in program mode and still nothing. I think it has to be a defective TR7, what do you think, any obvious gaps or errors in my method and testing?
Thanks in advance
-Joshua

 

^yeah sounds like an issue with the TR7. Since it is a "universal" tigger..it can be setup for different modes. It SHOULD be set by default out of the box as a "alpine video bypass" which works for my mod. Worst case, I'd try re-programming it for that. All else fails, switch it out. Or wait for my super duper OEM plug and play module.

 

Thanks, I just emailed them and requested a replacement. Yeah I wish I would’ve skipped all the way to the last page before ordering the parts. I would’ve much rather just bought the setup from you. You might want to update the initial post with some info about your kit that is coming out soon.
Thanks again.
-Joshua

 

It's in beta testing, not yet available. Took me forever to source both OEM ECT connector ends.
It will close to the same price as buying all these components individually.

 

Believe it or not, these OEM ECT connectors were a PITA to source. But alas, coming together. You can see the mini arduino underneath for size reference. My whole goal is to have everything fit though through the ECT hole. Pop switch out, plug in and done.

 

So much like. Soooooo much like.

Please save the first one for me. Preeeeeety please with a cherry on top

 

Taking pre-orders yet

 

Me So excite! Great work

 

Are there any downside to turning On: ECT PWR while driving? I tend to forget to turn it On then I'll remember while driving because it drives like a weak, underpowered struggling old truck!!!

How do you guys use it mostly?