Higher Output Alternator Possibilities

I have a 2004 Tacoma 4x4 3RZ 4 cylinder. I want to upgrade my alternator to avoid issues down the road when I start to add lights, stereo, etc. I see the ones from LCE but I don't like the price. I also read where an alternator out of an MR2 would work. Any truth to that? If so what year MR2? Any other ideas?

 

@NightProwler @BamaToy1997
@mechanicjon

 

You hear everywhere about how good Mean Green hi-output alternators are, but they are VERY careful NOT to tell you just how much "output" they actually put out at idle or low RPMs as opposed to running RPM which they say is 200amps. I think that's really strange.

 

Well for a true performing h/o alt, yes you can expect to pay around that much. I've heard better things about Singer alts than anything else. Mean Green seems to be good too but idk all that much about them. But any of those top tier brands, even rewound denso types like what LCE and bamatoy offers, are only needed if you have the demand for it. As in lots of lights/accessories/stereo... I just got bamatoys 250a recently. Even then, depending on how demanding your electrical system is, you may end up needing to run a dual bat setup as well. I really don't have all that much running either, but it's on the verge of needing an isolated dual battery. If you plan to have a stereo system/sub, that'll affect it much more than without as well, especially with a solo battery. Even my D.C. Power Engineering alt struggled a lil(and that thing was a beast). It's too bad their mounting solution is garbage... So don't get a D.C. alt btw.

Bamatoy offers great options though including wiring kits that simplify everything and is all literally plug and play. I got his stage 1 kit as well(big 3). Check him out here. (He's hit some rough spots with his business in the past, as you might discover, but think he's got it all ironed out now)

On the other hand if you're just looking for a lil more juice than what stock offers, then a budget swap may work for ya. The GM CS144 is a more popular option but does require a couple little modifications iirc. Like some basic washers for spacers, and I believe some slight mods to the wiring. You can find all the info here on the forums, just do a search. I found a write-up on it and briefly skimmed thru it.. Seems easy enough. But keep in mind that, again depending on your needs, it may not be the best option as they probly don't perform much better at idle under load than stock. Not sure if anyone's tested them or not. But if you have a winch/lights/stereo/anything that will be demanding at idle, it may not be sufficient. Maybe someone can chime in on that? Certainly not an expert, just what I suspect and don't have any facts to back all that up.

I think @Blackdawg has some experience with the cs144?

Never heard of the mr2 swap. But I imagine the same rules/ideas would apply to it just like the gm option.

 

been running a CS144 for 3? years now. No issues.

I have a write in my build

 

Good info - waiting on a guy on here to hit me back about an overwound alt. Starting to look in this direction. A lot of the links are compromised due to photobucket's epic fail or just old forum business. Doesn't sound too hard to swap minus which belt to use and which wires to connect where.

 

@Blackdawg

Any shortcut condensed write up version? The links don't show the wiring and I didn't figure out what belt to use

Also you said you got a core return? Where would this be? I have an extra alt out of my donor motor...

 

I didn't send in a core. I kept my stock for the OSK for trail repairs if needed. I've never needed my own, but have swapped the OEM one on the trial back on mikes rig. Good to have on hand.

If you buy this one: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ate&utm_campaign=2206300&utm_content=10711125

you just reuse the stock alt belt.

i wired mine like this: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...trail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-153#post-6560625

 

It's kind of like audio companies advertising their powered speakers ans amps at 1000 watts when it's really 1000 peak watts and 500 watts RMS, or what they're more accurately rated at. I guess automotive manufacturers do that to - don't think anyone would want to pay for a Lamborghini if it advertised 150 hp (at 1000 rpm lol). Alternators are more important than hp at low rpm from a functionality standpoint so I agree they should be more forthcoming with their specs.

 

The cs144 alternator is a direct plug n play with this adapter, bolts right into the stock location on the 3.4 liter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200850434281

 

That's awesome! Pretty reasonable price and I can always modify it if I want to change anything. It is a good idea to have it wired so you can use a stock as a spare.

 

Yeah, I didn't know about this plug at the time but I splice a harness into the stock one so I could still use it if I had to

 

Would it work with a 3rz?

 

You could check the part numbers of the stock alternators for the 5vz and the 3rz and if they're the same, it seems like there's a strong possibility the GM alt. would work.

 

no. Different mounting.

 

Oops guess we missed that. Even said that in the op.

 

I've got a GM three-wire cs144 alternator on my 3RZ. It's not terribly hard to swap. Couple washers in the bottom bracket and a welded on upper bracket. There are a few write ups if you google it

 

Do anyone knows if it would cause any damage to the wires or fuses if I upgrade the alternator from a 100amp to a 130amp?

 

No not really, voltage is more of the amount of "force" being pushed through the wire. That's what is more likely to damage wires and such. And amps is considered the amount of current going through the wire. Which still can damage things, that's why fuses and such are measured in amps. But in short, no 130 amps is fine.

 

im sorry, but no.

Amps are much more likely to damage wires. If you over draw current on cables you risk melting them. literally. or anything that they are touching. voltage won't do anything to wires. Thats why wires are rated for amps and same for fuses. Higher voltage means you end up drawing less amps for more power as you are "delivering" more power at a higher voltage. so to speak. Lower voltage means you need more amps for the same power.

that said, a 30 amp jump isn't going to hurt. but if his alt fuse is set for 100amps, he will just blow it if he end up with a higher load.