Long Travel BS Thread

No, were gonna do a swing steer on a new tundra but fell through. Gonna have a new race kit for the 2nd gen Tacomas in the works soonish. ,

 

I like Those new hubs you guys made for the tundra axles, will they fit our axle housings or are they only for the new gen axles?

 

They are 2.5" Hubs for 2.5 snounts. The tundra has a fabricated axle with just weld in snouts we made. So not for the stock axles. Only make those and the ones for the Silverado.

 

damn forgot how expensive they are. im really digging their black forged ones will the milling along the lines, i emailed them about the street lock wheels in that same finish and they said another 4 months... idk if i wanna part with my OMF wheels though haha

 

Oh, thats what I kinda figured out lol after really looking at the picture, still really awsome set up.

Yea they are really pricy lol, they have wait time? So they make them on order?

 

i think its just a new finish they are doing on the 501s that im thinking about doing, same thing that they do to their black forged. then my blue omf rock domes give it some extra color

 

Def beautiful man, out of curiosity, are these at all street legal? I was under the impression that beadlocks arnt right?

 

these are their street lock ones so they are fake,real beadlocks are legal but shops around here wont touch then cause they dont wanna be liable. im not about beadlocks after all the crawlers mounting 42" tires on them and it gets old haha i couldnt imagine doing 6 but i would opt out for some real walker beadlocks on my truck

 

Damn I thought they were real for the price. I guess anodized aluminum is hard to come across for a beadlock.

 

Would it be something you guys would be interested in?

 

Gentleman and Volcomtaco did yall find a "best" way to remove the rivets in the frame?
I cut one side off with a disc , ground em flat and used a BFH and a punch to bash em through. That worked but time consuming.
Tried to air hammer them out and that didn't work.
Any of you pro's got a faster way? TIA.

 

Cut the head off then air hammer them through.

 

Not drill and grinder I'll tell you that

 

If you drill them out some it weakens the grip it has in the frame. Then air hammer.

 

I tried that today, tomorrow I'll try a bigger air hammer

 

Just did all of mine last weekend. I ground the heads off with a flapper disk and then used a bfh and big add pry bar to pop whatever was coming off off of the rivets. Then ground the rest of the rivet flat to the frame. If what's left falls out then great. Wasn't worth my time

 

I tried a couple of things. What worked best for me was this.

Remove the head of the rivet. Some if the heads are awkward to get to, some I ground, some cut off with a wheel, some I was able to air chisel off. Some took a combination to get them off.

Repeat on all rivets for whatever you are removing.

Using a pry bar pop off whatever component you are removing.

Grind exposed stubs flush to the frame.

Air hammer remainder out.

As already stated some if the rivets have a washer on top and are welded, those are the worst. The whole job is significantly easier with the bed removed. I tried drilling out the centers of the first rivets but it never seemed to help, and stopped after that.

 

did you try turning it off, then turning it on again?

 

Basically what I did. Remove the head however you can. Remove the component. Grind down the rest. I didn't care about what was left