Toytec install quote....high or low???

its really just loosening bolts and taking ou the old and putting in the new. the ulk qwould not be to har, i dont know abou the uca tho

 

they should all be 'stickies' at the top of the suspension page. the swaybar relocates are self explanitory, just bolt them on the ends of the swaybar, the coilovers will go in the opposite way the coils came out

here is the likn for installing coilovers, they are for fox's but its pretty much the same thing.
list of install threads
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/41222-suspension-tips-mods-more.html

 

apparently we're in the same boat.

 

What the most difficult part of installing the ultimate kit and LR UCAs? Maybe I could do everything but the most difficult part (ie. UCAs, AAL, etc.) and have the shop do that part of the install thus making it a lot cheaper.

 

ULK $398 with Alignment

In Colorado

 

The guy told me $420 and with UCAs $540. Not to far off from your price ~$20

 

the hardest part would be messing with the long bolt for the UCA, but with the provided instructions its not hard at all. If you have any mechanical knowledge this should be a fairly smooth install for you. If your uncomfortable doing it, tell the guy at the shop you'll give him 400 cash to install everything, including UCA's and alignment. the worst he can say is no.

 

The thread for the spring removal doesn't have pics anymore.

The thread for the UCAs are for the T Chaos...will it be the same for LR?

If I could locate all the install thread (with pics) I may attempt this thing.

 

Sounds like you are being quoted by a shop with about an $80 hr labor rate. UCA list in a labor guide as 1.5 hours not including alignment so he is adding $120.

I know many here think the number is high, but the quotes you are getting are in line with labor times for the truck. The issue is the overlap in times. UCA is staring at you while you do the coil overs. Truck is already up in the air so there are some time savings. Hard to quantify exactly how much. The real thing to ask is how the work is done. Will they just run it all down with an impact wrench, or will they be using torque specs? Do they set the vehicle on the rack before tightening bushing bolts, or do they zap it all in the air?

I do not mind paying good money for good work. Good money for meh work is another story.

Make sure they do not do Visine Alignments. If they just "get the red out" so they can print you a green sheet keep looking.

 

installing a new uca is installing a new uca, the instructions will be the same.

print out the instructions and keep them with you as you go along.

 

So, I may just install the ultimate lift then drive and and see if I need the UCAs. To install the ultimate lift, how do I raise the truck? Will a jack work?

Thanks!

 

lol yea, I bought a 3 ton floor jack from harbor freight and I already had some jack stands.

 

Does it need to have a certain maximum height? I was thinking I should buy one that would work on my truck and my wifes car so I was thinking about getting a low profile floor jack but it only has a 13-15/16" max lift.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950165000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Lift%20Equipment%20&%20Jacks&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

 

It's fairy easy to do it yourself, especially if you were to spend an hour or 2 doing research on this forum, lots of good write-ups with pictures.

You don't need any special tools other than a torque wrench (for the complete coilovers) and if you do a spacer you can get 'over the strut' style that require no messing with the spring.

You'll need: a metric socket set, torque wrench, 2 jack stands, your bottle jack (in the truck already + a wood block to get more lift out of it) a butter knife, pliers, and a hammer. $100+ depending on what socket set you go with.

Front: after you get the wheel off there is only about 7 nuts/bolts to deal with. The UCA is supposedly a pain (haven't done mine yet) just because you have to pop off some plastic and bend a little sheet metal but it is well documented on this forum.

Rear: 12 nuts to deal with, 1 at each brakeline, 5 at each leafspring. Plus a few more to get the shcoks off. Also well documented.

Make sure that when you put it all together you properly torque everything and the torque values should be on here somewhere, come with the kit instructions or I can give them to you.

Drive it for a week, readjust to height you want (if adjustable c/o's, they tend to settle a bit after some driving) retorque and then get an alignment: $80 private or $100 at dealership.

Plus there are many helpful members on here that can walk you through any hang ups.

 

it does but I dont remember what it was, I just went to harbor freight and got the cheap orange one.
here is the low pro one for 5 bucks more

 

Wow, thanks for all the help! I would love to print out the how to threads and use them step by step as I do this but I'm having a hard time finding the install threads for the ultimate lift.

 

I found a thread to do the AAL and the UCAs (which I may wait to do this part). The thread for the front spring removal doesn't have pics.

With the thread I could locate I think I could do the AAL but thats it. I need to find threads for doing the front spring removal, install front coil overs, rear shocks, shims, sway bar relocates, etc.

 

This one is good. You won't need all of this (skip the spacer section etc) but you'll be doing just this, minus a few steps.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/40467-how-toytec-lift-install-smtrdsport.html

 

Seriously, even without much knowledge you could do it yourself. It's pretty easy. Devote a Saturday to it and plan on it taking all day, which it won't.

When I put my c/o's on it was my first time ever dealing with IFS, granted I have alot of mechanical experience compared to the avg joe, but I had both sides done in about an hour.

The rear also took an hour (block) but that's because I did it solo and has to use the PITA bottle jack.

The only thing that will slow you down is having to refer to directions and figure out what tool and where to put the jack etc. The work itself is pretty easy and since you have new rig everything should be fairly clean and go smoothly.

Remember safety first: Always make sure the vehicle is more than adequately supported, put your wheel flat under it too incase it does drop it will be an extra barrier, and wear safety glasses; there isn't really anything that could pop off into your eye but just do it anyway. It's good to have someone nearby too, even if they just sit there and watch sometimes it's helpfu to have an extra hand there when you need it.

I can make you an easy step by step for the front coils without pictures if you want. Just basically the order in which you remove/replace boltes will make a world of difference.