Yet Another ECGS Bushing Installation - 2013 Tacoma

I completed the ECGS bushing installation yesterday; 4 hours total time. After reading a few installation threads and watching the video, I was fairly confident I could perform the task, and I'm happy to say it was straightforward without too many surprises. Having the proper tools was essential, aside from the ECGS bearing puller. Here's a list of what I used that assisted me in completing the bushing installation:

• ECGS Needle Bearing puller (mine was homemade, but same thing)
• Harbor Freight Bearing/Seal Driver set
• 35mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar
• 36" crowbar
• Slide hammer (not 100% necessary but definitely helped. Free borrow from Autozone)
• Impact gun (not necessary but very convenient)
• Ball joint puller
• Metric socket set/wrench set (whatever you have on hand)
• Bernzomatic propane torch (came in handy loosening a few bolts and the dust cap)
• Hammer (a 3lb or 4lb works better)
• Telescoping magnet for installing the bearing puller (not necessary but helps)

Parts needed:

• ECGS bushing
• Axle seal (included with bushing if you opt for it)
• 1.5q gear oil if you're replacing the fluid and not just topping back off. 75w85 or 75w90. Synthetic or non, Limited slip formula or regular.
• Crush washers for the fill and drain plugs (available from the parts monkey at the dealership)

Remove the dust cap. This was a pain in the a$$ for a first time removal. After struggling with it for 15 minutes, I heated the rim where it meets the hub with the propane torch, just lightly. Then I used a very sharp flathead screwdriver and hammered it into the lip and pried away. Spin the hub and repeat about 20-30 times until it pops off. It's a tight fit!


Remove the cotterpin, safety cap, and break the axle bolt with a 35mm socket. If you have a 1/2" impact gun, this should be quick work. My 3/8" Impact wasn't up to the task, so I heated the nut with the torch and broke it lose with a 1/2" breaker bar.



Remove the two bolts on the bottom of the hub assembly (end of the lower control arm, shown in photo) and use a 3lb or 4lb hammer to loosen the cv axle from the hub. Take care here not to mar the threads! I put the nut on flush with the end of the axle shaft and gave it a few light hits and it popped out. Use the ball joint puller and remove the steering control arm ball joint from the hub. Swing away the hub/brake assemble and support it out of the way. I used my jack to keep it supported nicely.



This next step, removing the CV axle, comes down to what you have on hand and personal preference. I made quick work of it by using a slide hammer attached with a pair of large hose clamps, and a pry bar at the base of the axle where it meets the diff case. A firm push of the pry bar and a couple of slides of the hammer and the axle popped right out. In the pic below, you can see where the end of the slide hammer is attached.



Axle removed, bucket catching the gear oil. Here we have a clear view of the perpetrator.



New bushing from ECGS, axle seal, and home-made bearing puller.



A rag must be stuffed into the diff behind the bearing. Don't forget this step!



The ECGS bearing puller is installed with the flat side facing out. You'll see when you are ready to insert it, the notched side faces in; use a telescoping magnet to place it behind the bearing, then screw in the shaft, slide the outer bar on, then the nut. Tighten the nut until it begins to move. It may require some force to break the bearing lose initially.



Problem child removed!



Using the Harbor freight driver set, I used the 39.5mm driver to install the ECGS bushing.



If you're replacing the axle seal (you should), use a seal puller to make quick work of it's extrication. In the below picture, the seal is out, but I'm just showing the tool.



New ECGS bushing installed with the driver. This step took a few tries, as it's initially difficult to get in there with the tool and a hammer and line everything up straight. After a few light taps to line the bushing up straight, you can then drive it in easily. Make sure it's flush with the inner edge as shown.



New seal installed with the Harbor freight bearing/seal driver set. NOTE: the seal should be flush with the outer case, as per ECGS advice. In this photo, I have the seal driven too far in and I ended up pulling it out enough to be flush. If you drive the seal too far in, it will leak!



CV axle re-inserted. It pops back in easily.



Now is a good time to replace your front diff fluid. Here's what 58,000 mile fluid looks like... Texas tea! A 10mm hex socket is needed to remove the drain and fill plugs. Note that each one has a crush washer and they should both be replaced with new ones from the dealership.


Refilled with 1.5 quarts of 75w85 or 75w90 gear oil. Full synthetic is fine, and having limited-slip designation is also fine.



All done! Now for the moment of truth...



Ahhh! Smooth as glass at 45mph.

 

nice write up.

I will say, you 100% do not have to remove the CV from the hub, or tie rod from the hub. Simply unbolt the 2 main bolts that hold the LBJ to the spindle and there is PLENTY of room to swing the spindle / caliper / hub/ cv out of the way, Thats how i did it and it saved alot of time.

 

Agreed. I've done both ways, and I found the extra room with the CV shaft not there definitely helped with driving in the new bushing and seal. My personal experience only. YMMV.

 

Best write up i've seen yet for the ECGS, great pictures.

 

Nice write up OP!

 

Excellent

 

Want to recoop on your puller? My truck is on jacks and I need a puller. The loaner pilot bearing puller didn't work

 

Sure. I'll pay it forward. $6 shipping and it's yours. PM me.
Thanks,
Matt

 

PM sent, and I'll be happy to pay it forward after I'm done

 

Great write up and pics!

 

Good write up, looks way more involved than I want to do. I paid 200 to have it completed.

 

And why do you put the rag in there?

 

To prevent the end of the bearing puller from falling into the case, thus causing a time consuming removal of the front diff.

 

Oh shit! That is important! Thank you

 

Awesome write up

 

Best and most thorough write up for this job so far. Great job!

 

Sub'd thanks for the write up

 

Great write-up! Thanks for sharing.

 

I pulled out my driver's CV joint because the seal has been leaking since I put in the ECGS bushing. I noticed a loose springlike o-ring (arrow pointing to it). What is it? Where is supposed to go?





Is the spring o-ring suppose to go mounted on the new seal gasket? Where?




Any help would be appreciated.

 

yup that spring goes on the lip of the seal (most seals have this round spring)

Id get a new seal before putting that one back in to be honest.