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1997 Tacoma Extended Cab Power Window Problem

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by kgt0001, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017 at 5:06 PM
    #1
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello. I purchased a 1997 Tacoma Extended Cab 4x4 earlier this year. Been going through it and feel great about the progress- except I have struggled with getting the power window switch to be operational. Neither switch on the drivers door works and the lone switch on the passenger side does not work. The power door locks do work. I have replaced the switch assemblies originally thinking that was the issue. The master plug connections in the kick panel going to the wires in the door are good. I have ohmed the wires and they are good. I have checked the grounds- they are good. I checked the fuses in the fuse box- all look good.

    Is there a main fuse somewhere or a relay that I am missing? I have reviewed wiring schematics I have found online- but have not found the specific ones for a 1997. What I have found shows the color of the wires compared to what I have found online are different.

    Any thoughts? Odd that both power windows don't work. I did a search trying to find a prior thread on the issue with no luck. Thanks for any help you can give.

    image_01.jpg
     
  2. Sep 16, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    #2
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thoughts
     
  3. Sep 16, 2017 at 3:21 PM
    #3
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Flux Capacitor
    The wire colors changed slightly every year, a 1995 schematic may be different from a 1997 schematic. Try cleaning the master switch connectors.
     
  4. Sep 16, 2017 at 6:11 PM
    #4
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    How do you know if the window motors work?
     
  5. Sep 16, 2017 at 6:41 PM
    #5
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    Well to start off with, I'm not an electrical man, but have tinkered a lot through the years. When you say you ohmed the wires, are you just checking for continuity? The reason I ask is because a while back I had trailer lights that the wiring all showed continuity with the respective end of the wire, but wouldn't work, I finally checked for voltage and there wasn't any, not enough to work. Turned out to be corrosion under insulation on the wiring,,, maybe this will help, if you check voltage.
    It was like just one strand in the wire was enough to show continuity but wouldn't carry the full voltage.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2017 at 7:00 PM
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    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the response.

    I ran a hot wire- got them to go in one direction only. I assumed that since they would move the motor is good (only tried this on the drivers side).
     
  7. Sep 16, 2017 at 7:02 PM
    #7
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply.
    I checked for continuity.
    I am not getting voltage at all from what I have been able to tell.
     
  8. Sep 16, 2017 at 7:25 PM
    #8
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    hmmmm, seems like I've heard of this before. What about the other direction, over and over. Do they get hot fast?
    What I'm getting at is your giving all you got and they work....begrudgingly. But in circuit protected mode, it's just not enough power to overcome a worn motor......maybe? I've got one on my van that works sometimes. Sometimes not. I say the motors about to bite it. Prob. next time it's raining hard and it's down.
     
  9. Sep 16, 2017 at 7:33 PM
    #9
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good thought. I used the hot wire to rule out the motor being the issue.
    I don't seem to be getting voltage through the harness.

    When I bought the truck neither window worked- I ruled out the motors thinking surely both could not have gone bad. Maybe that was bad trouble shooting on my part.

    I will try a window motor from my other Tacoma (those work) to see if I can get it to function in the 1997.
    I appreciate your assistance- spent a lot of time up to now trying to solve the issue.
     
  10. Sep 16, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #10
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    really, I would think you'd see some voltage probing the wire while hitting the button though.

    I just worked on a car though (Hyundai) that shows voltage to things and when you press buttons (windows) it completes to ground. I don't know about Toyo Windows. Never probed them.
     
  11. Sep 17, 2017 at 1:32 AM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    It happens that the wire harness going into the left door starts to break with all the door cycles.

    Then it only takes one strand of wire to ring out but will not carry enough to operate the motor

    It does not hurt to lube the regulator and tracks .

    Help might be close at hand if you tell us were you live
     
  12. Sep 17, 2017 at 6:02 AM
    #12
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the reply.
    I am going to take the regulators and motors out today- clean and lube them. I will study the harness to ensure that no wires are broken. I cannot get either window to operate- no matter if I use the door switch on the drivers or passengers door.


    I am in San Antonio, TX.
     
  13. Sep 17, 2017 at 8:24 AM
    #13
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    It's 20 yrs. old now. Nearly old enough to drink so cleaning certainly will help. Nice truck BTW, looks like someone cared for it.
     
  14. Sep 17, 2017 at 10:50 AM
    #14
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Another thing all your testing is with the engine running or a battery charger on the battery .

    I have seen old tired motors fail to work due to just enough added resistance to cause enough line loss

    enough to drive you crazy
     
    cruxofthebisquit likes this.
  15. Sep 18, 2017 at 8:03 AM
    #15
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    True and how many times you see a car starter dragging along, failing to start, you jump start it and think "Oh, battery". Buy a new one and it still drags. The starter was going bad but worked fine with 13.5V.
     
  16. Sep 24, 2017 at 8:29 AM
    #16
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    After testing the motors and swapping with my other Tacoma- realized the motors were not the problem. Broke down and bought the factory Shop manual - whole section on isolating power window issues. After running through the tests- I isolated the issue to the relay integration module that plugs into the in dash fuse box. Swapped in a test one from another truck- windows work. Going to buy a used one (new is $300) - hopefully that takes care of the issue.
    Thanks for all the assistance- once it gets outside of suspension, and underhood mechanical I am in uncharted territory.
    Have a great day.
    Kyle
     
  17. Sep 24, 2017 at 12:16 PM
    #17
    Dek Ngo

    Dek Ngo Well-Known Member

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    What's the part number for the "relay integration module"?
     
  18. Sep 24, 2017 at 2:37 PM
    #18
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Part # is 82641-35

    Have one?
    Thanks
     
  19. Sep 25, 2017 at 7:09 AM
    #19
    Dek Ngo

    Dek Ngo Well-Known Member

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    #19
  20. Sep 25, 2017 at 11:41 AM
    #20
    kgt0001

    kgt0001 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. Bought one last night off EBay- appreciate the link.
     
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    #20

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