Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Very true. Drive shaft choice (CV vs single joint) plays an important factor. Another important factor is the rotation of the pinion during flex - which might be more of an issue with leaf springs? Dunno...

My Caster is just about 6* on a Dana 60. That seems to work fine and I've heard anything between 5*-7* is good. Can't remember now what my pinion angle is at the moment. Will measure and report back.

 

Any reason you aren't going for a 9.5" center?

Guessing that you are carrying over all your components from the current front housing aside from the inner shafts?

 

6*ish of castor. Pinion angle is setup so it's parallel with the tcase output since I have a non CV upfront. It looks like a rock magnet but I haven't hit it yet.

 

Order one with me. Maybe they'll cut a deal haha

Sounds good. Diamond was saying anywhere from 10-12 for pinion angle. I have Dual cases with a low pinion 3rd and a cv on the tcase side.

If I was to do a 9.5 id do 80 shafts and he'll fire knuckles. Don't habe that coin and you said exactly why I won't. Everything carries over and will pretty much be a bolt in swap. I don't intend to go bigger on tires but if I do, can always get a high pinion 8 for the front and do a tundra/t100 or 80 rear axle. Plus I'm not hard on the gas and a pretty moderate wheeler. I know when to call it quites when stuff starts binding

Sounds good. I have a cv with the stock pinion on the mini truck and smash the 3rd all the time.

Anything I should tell Brian when/if I order this thing? Going pretty much all out if I do. Knuckle ball gussets. Rcv inner shafts. Their perched and u bolts. Etc.

 

Malburg,
I have 62" WMS Diamond with the IFS hubs. My high pinion DS drop diff is pointed at the TC flange. I do have a D.C. Joint in the front driveshaft.
IIRC, my angle was 6.34. Note that I'm running a 4WU 3 link.
Wheel base is soon to be 105.5", currently @ 106".

Hope this helps you.

 

I ended up with a non CV drive shaft up front as well. So my pinion is parallel with the tcase output too, but I have a high pinion so that helps with some additional clearance.

 

Good to know Oz...
I have zero issues for clearance... the driveshaft is tucked up quite a bit.

I might add, the DC is at the TC end of the drive shaft.

 

I'd go for the billet knuckle balls

 

I wish haha I have an extra housing laying around so I'll just cut the balls off them and send em in.

 

Totally get it, it's not a bad way to go since you have all the running gear already. The extra width will be awesome

I'd be asking what the lead times are from FROR and Ruff Stuff before pulling the trigger too. I know they can get pretty backed up depending on the time of year.

 

Did they ever start making those? I only saw "spy pics" of them.

 

Hi pinion differentials help with clearance for sure.

If your pinion is pointing at the TC output you definitely need a CV or double cardan on the end of the drive shaft that connects to the TC. I have single joints on both ends because my front pinion does not point straight to the TC output.

 

Yup you just tell brian u want em

 

Lead time for a diamond was 4-6 weeks. Ruff stuff said 4 weeks but their pretty busy so probably 6. I'm gonna go with the diamond I think purely because i can buy everything from him. Axle, shafts and Atleast I would hope his will bolt right in.

Everything I've read says if you have extra stock knuckle balls, use those. Or get their billet ones. You save 150 by sending in yours. It's 300 on top of the 1025 for their billet balls. I have an extra axle I'll just cut the balls of and use

 

How much are those diamond axles these days?

 

Around 1100 with me sending in the knuckle balls without the inner axle shafts. but that includes the perches, u bolts, u bolt plates, knuckle gussets, steering dom etc. still a big chunk but cheaper than building another set of axles.

 

My rear axle was right around 5k. Complete axle 3" .5 wall tubes. 9.5" land cruiser chunk with 4.88 and ARB. Full float outters with the drotor setup (4Runner disc with internal ebrake). 30 spline custom double spline chromo shafts. But its the last rear axle I have to buy. Now for the front

 

I actually called them to price out that exact same rear. I'll pull the trigger eventually...
I forget what it was before shipping, but my front was nearly $7K shipped to Hawaii...
Complete axle, but without brakes. It was built it to reuse the stock 2nd gen calipers and rotors.

 

Brian makes some gorgeous hunks of metal that's for sure!

 

... yes he does.
Here are my front & rear Diamonds: