Home Improvement Today?

45 the tops....and opposite 45 at bottom... didn't think of that. For 400 board feet....should be fun

 

thanks man! I'm happy with how it came out... minus the builders not putting the electrical box in the centre of the wall. it's off by about 4"

to be fixed in the future lol

 

Huge improvement - looks good!

 

Thanks!

 

Rabbet joints along the edges so they overlap, and when they shrink the gap will not be all the way through - will just look like tongue and groove (which is also an option) with a little space in between. Like a french cleat but rabbets instead of 45s.

 

Dry the wood

 

Applied rainscreen plywood blocking diamonds and top / bottom drains / vents and then we started putting on the metal roofing / siding on the back wall

Now you can see the effect of the roofing cascade on the same wall that has the ceiling to wall 2x6 t&g fir cascade on the opposite side

 

Lol... I am...but I have a feeling my wood burner is going to dry it even more. The wall the wood is going on, is directly across from the wood stove.

 

Board on board , board and batten , t&g or shiplap

 

@OZ-T ... is construction adhesive strong enough to glue down rafters on a covered patio? The rafters will have seat cuts and be sitting on 4x6 DF beams. The rafters are DF. I would toe-screw each side on top of beam so it's not easily visible, after laying each seat cut in a heavy bed of adhesive.

Reason: I cant find (locally) any decorative ties (black) that I like, so I thought maybe glue them instead along with a couple toe screws just to hold them while glue dries.

All framing is exposed, no ceiling will cover the bottom of rafters. The silver Simpson ties are just too ugly in this application.

Seattle area, 9' x 16' roof area, sheathing on top of rafters will be 1-1/8" CDX, standing seam roofing, 2/12 pitch.

Thanks for your input, big man.

 

Have you checked out any of Simpson's new Outdoor Accents line ?

https://www.strongtie.com/outdooraccents_decorativehardware/category

You could add some PL Premium but I would probably run a GRK RSS screw through the rafter to the beam

http://www.grkfasteners.com/products/structural/rss

 

I saw the APA6 on an arbor at a business I drive by every day... I like them but my angle is not 90 degrees, plus that's what got me thinking about glue... if that little one hole thing is good enough, then glue must surely be even better. But, it was an arbor with no roofing to create lift in the wind, so in my application, when the wind gets under the roof, I need it to be stronger than just the APA6 I think.

Instead of the screws you show (no idea where to get them local) would these work? (I already have enough of them)...


So would a bed of glue plus one of those, pre drilled, from top of rafter into top of 4x6 2.5 inches suffice?

 

Simpson products are available everywhere. And those screws you link would be fine, the only issue is going top down outside allows for water to work it's way in.

 

Like I said in first post, the Simpsons are just too fugly for this application, plus I'd have to cut the end two to remove the tails lest they hang out over the end of beam.



Water won't be an issue because there'll be sheathing and roofing on top of the rafters.

 

Work and repainting my house room by room, to remove some bad juju

 

Nice to see you working on your own. It’s hard when your in the business.

 

Planning on moving next year not sure where, I am now in flip this house mode, my custom cabinets ect cone out and all work will now for into the price range of the neighboring houses. So I'm dialing back on what normally do.

 

The glue would help but the screws are going to provide the resistance to uplift

 

We're roofed and flashed on the lower section of the roof around the eave skylight and part way along the insulated raised area , roofers should be done entire roof and sidewall work by end of next week