4.0L 1GR 2nd Gen Oil Change Guide

Well the pan as designed using the stock drain plug already leaves a good amount in the pan. The Fumoto sticks up a bit more still, so indeed it leaves even more behind. But you aren't really draining all the oil even if you pull the plug instead of using a valve.

To each their own of course!

 

Does the Fumoto w/o the nipple drain faster than the one with?

I am debating which to get. Have read many say they don't need the nipple & tube becuz they simply slide pan under truck and flip open. This argument is made becuz you have to get to the valve to put the hose on anyways, so why not just go hopeless?

Makes sense I guess but I have not changed my own oil before....lol

 

Mine is without and it still drains slowly. No biggie though since I'm busy under the truck anyway looking at stuff. It takes a few minutes to drain but we'll worth it for me. I RECOMMEND the Fumoto valve for anyone who DIY.

 

Are you guy's using an OEM drain plug gasket on the Fumoto valve or the fiber looking gasket that comes with the valve? Are you torquing the valve ? Going to do my 75,000 oil change this weekend and install the valve.

 

I used the gasket supplied by fumoto. Torque per manual for oem plug is 30lbs (or is it 28?) I torqued the Fumoto to 20lbs, I went less because it is brass. It felt plenty tight. Not sure this is a good idea, it's just what I did.

 

Yea I was not going to try and put 30# on the brass. I been turning wrenches for 40 years(Retired) and I have run across the cheap gasket that fumoto supplied over the years. I will put it on and mark the valve with some white out or something and monitor it to see if it moves any. My Double cab is an asphalt only truck so I should be ok.

 

So the gasket that came with my fumoto is a cheapo? Guess I should have known. When I screwed in the valve I felt as though I got it just right with hitting 20 lbs while turning and it felt seated well. Hoping to never have to revisit it again other than with my finger to drain the oil during changes.

 

My Fumoto has been trouble free for almost 2 years and 30k. No worries at all,it's as bullet proof as the truck.

 

I've had my fumoto on for 7 years, I think - maybe 8 and have "knock on wood" had an issue with it.

 

Head slap! Changed mine own oil for the FIRST TIME yesterday(104,500 '08 2WD PreRunner). Normally I would take to a service shop. They would let me supply my own oil. However, they increased their price to perform the oil + filter change to $19.99. Thought this would be a good time to revisit the oil change routine. I followed another guy's procedure to change and their was no mention of this plug at the bottom of the filter holder. I wondered how that oil got deposited down below. Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing this procedure.

As an aside, how about a recommendation for a set of wheel chocks.

 

2005 Tacoma 4.0 V6.
Just changed my oil before reading about the potential filter reservoir mess...I drained the oil before removing the almost empty filter...one quick wipe in filter reservoir...no plastic tube, no Dixie cup, no mess, no fuss. Anyone see an issue with this approach?

 

Well, as long as no mess, then you are good to go! I wasn't fast enough when I changed mine recently(first time for me to do the change), so it was messy down below. Secured the 5/16" 5' tubing for the next time. Also, purchased a 5/16" vacuum cap to replace the missing plug.

 

This method may take a while longer, unless you punch a small hole in the top of the filter to allow air to displace the draining oil.

 

Just changed my oil this morning as I do every 6 months. I have a fumoto valve so it only takes me about 30 minutes without any tools and is mess free. I always feel good right after while I drive to autozone to dump my used oil.

I don't even check the dipstick anymore since it's so inaccurate and hard to read. I drain the oil, then put in 5.5 qt of oil. I figure the oil that remains in the engine is offset by "burned off" the past 6 months and the bit of new oil that is left in each of the 5 mobil 1 bottles ( since you can't get every drop). Close enough.

I figure if you went to the dealer, they wouldn't be waiting for every drop to drain from the engine or every drop to leave their new oil jugs.

Eazy peezy

 

@plainjanetaco, SMART! I like the cup catch method. I modified it since I didn't have a small bungee cord. I used a cut in half water bottle with 550 cord. @raycie, I did the same thing, the ol' rag method before I saw this post!

 

I don't have a torque wrench. What would be a good method to prevent over tightening?

When you loosen the plug, does it start to pour immediately or just when its almost ready to come off the threads? Just wondering how much time I'll have to GTFO from under it, lol.

 

Get a torque wrench, even the Harbor Freight ones are good and inexpensive. I had mine professionally checked and it was only 2ft/lb off. It'll start to drip out as it gets closer to the plug coming out

 

Experienced mechanics seldom use torque wrenches. Not telling you to not use them, but it's the experience that educates your sense of how tight to go. For those who lack the experience, there are Stubby ratchets available, short handles that prevent over tightening by limiting the leverage of the handle.

About when to GTFO from under the drain plug... This is a lesson you learn every time you change oil. If you get a Fumoto Valve, you only have to learn it once.

 

As well as inexperienced Shady mechanics.. How can you tell the difference.. This is why no one but myself works on my vehicles.