How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I have had the flashing 4x4 and 4 Low lights for like 8 years on an off now. Toyota has changed transfer cases, and front diffs and I have returned to them like 10 times for this problem. I have always figured mine was a water problem from slush or rain sometimes. I can usually get it working one way or another after some turning off, flipping switches or whatever. Well the other day I went camping and turned the 4x4 on for the first time in about a month. Of course it was poring rain out and I heard it engage and start flashing both light. No problem I can tell its in 4 high. Next day will not come out of 4 high with anything I try. On, off, battery off, fuse pulled, hitting actuators with light hammer. Nothing works! Drove to a local mechanic (ex Toyota tech) and he gets it out from the transfer case. I am guessing he popped the 3 little 8mm bolts off the triangle service port from the top of the actuator and pushed forward. My dad picked it up for me and I noticed that the front was still engaged (front drive shaft won't spin by hand) but was disconnected to transfer case. He said it was good to drive and I had no binding on my 3 hour drive home. The front must of disconnected halfway home as the lights stopped flashing. I pulled over and checked front driveshaft, and was now all good in. Today I opened up my front ADD and followed steps in post 1 (all was clean and looked new BTW). Then tried to get into 4x4 with no luck just wouldn't lock in. Ok I then opened up the transfer case actuator, again clean and GTG. put in all back together and now I have my 4x4 and 4 Low lights flashing again. Messed will the dial and now I got it locked in 4 high but all lights are flashing and won't come out. Now tomorrow I know I can manually push shaft back in to disengage from transfer case, I don't want to open up front diff again. I think I am not lining up the actuator with the rod on the transfer case. or the 4x4 ecu is not getting signal from transfer indicator switch #1 for what position the rods in? I am going to get back into tomorrow to clean up all terminals (again) check a ground wire I read about tonight on the passenger side engine above front diff ADD connecter.
Does anyone have a photo of what position the transfer case actuator dial should be if in 2wd? I think this is my most likely problem as that's what I messes with last. I think the transfer case is saying its in 4high when its really in 2wd or is off just a little. Next question: how many clinks should the rod make when you manually pull push into Transfer case? I have read that all the way in in 2wd and 1 click is 4high and 2 clicks( pulled all the way out) in 4 low. Mine today only seemed to have 2 positions, but didn't want to pull/ push tooooo hard.
Long post and for any of you still with me; thanks. I wanted to give as much info as possible and didn't want someone to tell me to try going backwards or shutting it off or changing my headlight bulb.
And yes for all you guys telling me its time for the FJ cruiser transfer case swap; yes I agree.
I am not good at testing electronics.
Thanks

 

I replaced mine with a new one and took the correct steps to install and now the transfer case wont shift in or outta gear!!! Any ideas?

 

I have a 2005 tacoma 4x4 access cab that the 4x4 light was flashing. Switch wouldn't engage anything. Took to dealer and they said it was the switch. They replaced the switch ($200) and now say it's the actuator. They want $2300 for the job. I'm thinking of having a mechanic buddy help me or paying him to do most of it. Is there anything in the computer that needs to be reset or does it just go back to working normal once the actuator is replaced?

 

they should credit the switch repair, that being said 2300 is way too high for the add replacement.
i would buy a new oem actuator online or from the camelback toyota vendor here on the TW and have your friend install it.

 

I'll do it for 1000 plus parts lol

 

how did you make out? did you end up pulling the whole thing off or just removing plastic cover in the space provided?

I was thinking the same thing because im going to hop under the truck this week and see whats going on under there.

 

alright well my 2012 off road tacoma with manual transmission has these pesky bull shit 4wd problems again.... yes, again, already, after going through all this earlier in the year...

below are pictures taken today by me from the front actuator I pulled off my truck... Please note this was installed back in March of this year and has only been on the truck for roughly 5k miles... Prior to installing I opened the black cover and soldered all the points as well as sealed the cover with rtv. This was a brand new factory toyota part purchased from a toyota dealerhsip off ebay.







I do NOT drive in deep water frequently, in fact I have really only crossed deep water one or two times in the past 5k miles....
There was a puddle inside this thing... My local mechanic is throwing blame here at the factory breather that sits in the engine bay at the same hight as the plastic engine cover... I have a hard time accepting that this much water is getting in from that breather given its location and my lack of frequency driving through water any deeper than what us found on a typical street puddle or just your typical rainy weather & pavement pounding commutes...

 

So here is the kicker.... Before removing the actuator pictured above please note my following symptoms:
I did Not have the blinking 4hi light issue while in 2wd.
I did have a rotary dial that would go from 2wd into 4hi, confirming I was indeed in 4hi by way of feeling the binding in the steering wheel while turning, however though I was confirmed in 4hi my dash indicator light would not stay on solid but in fact stay blinking....
At this time (4hi engaged with 4hi light flashing) the rotary dial would not work in taking me back into 2wd. I would now have to turn the truck off and then go with (key on engine off) with rotary dial back in 2wd position, and "clank" you would hear the truck fall back into 2wd...

Today I installed a used but confirmed functioning front actuator.... Removed from another member and friends truck here on TW (ruling out possible shady used parts here lol)
I turn the truck on and guess what....
Yep, you guessed it... NOTHING
not only do I now have the constant 4hi flashing while in 2wd.... I also now have the LO dash light flashing simultaneously with the 4hi light...
and yes, you guessed it... Now I have zero function from the rotary dial, so I can not even go from 2wd into 4hi... as I was able to get even with the actuaor I just removed pictured above...


aside from the breather hose, I do not see any possible way that water let alone moisture would be getting inside this thing so easily... I have inspected the hose and it seems fine, not even some dry rot nothing...

I know I should have probably cooled down before ranting away my problems here, so if I make little sense here please note I am heated and my thoughts do not always translate into typed word as well as I had thought them up

 

since water inside these front ADD actuators is seemingly such a problem, has anyone thought about just plugging the breather up shut air tight

I understand breathers serve a purpose for releasing pressure as temperatures change.... but in this case, what the heck can be expanding and contracting with in this black cover that really calls for a breather in the first place...

 

I'm no engineer but it seems like they gave it a breather for a reason. Wouldn't it just be easier to extend and over engineer the current setup so it will be well clear of h20?

 

a breather in this location just doesn't make sense to me.... no fuel gases passing through, no oils inside, nothing expanding and contracting so this is why I am kinda thinking why not ply it shut...

I get what you are saying about not being an engineer as neither am I... but the guys who put that breather there are the same guys who slapped the rusty frames and wimpy leaf packs on their also, don't get me started on the turd gens lol

 

Only one way to find out! The only thing to heat up in there is that little motor. Hopefully that's not running long enough to really get hot. Glue the shot out of it and let us know how it goes.

 

lol, yea i will report back hopefully in a day or two after pulling off the one I installed today.
looks like i will be giving this one more shot for the time being as I start ordering an fj case and all the fun crap I barely ever need

 

alright well upon closer inspection I found a nice slice in the rubber hose that leads up to the breather

this is most deffinetly a point of entry for water and moisture into the front ADD actuator.

for anyone who is repair and or replacing theirs, do yourself a favor and inspect the rubber hoses leading to the breather!!!!!

I say hoses because there are two different ones, one leads directly off the actuator that mates to a metal tube that runs across the bottom on the engine that then gets picked up by the second and longer hose of the two that leads directly up on the drivers side ending around the hight of the plastic engine cover with the littler breather fitting on the end!


new actuator ordered, will replace the hose and install actuator next week.

fingers crossed for the time being.

 

@madmax477 fix ur 4wd

 

Any idea how that hose got sliced?

 

Yes! It seems like it made contact with a metal hose clamp. There are two breather tubes that run up together, one is larger than the other, the slice I have is in the smaller diameter hose, the larger of the two is the one with the metal clamp.

will try and take some pics shortly

 

this picture really does Not do justice

in person if you move the hose you can see a much bigger gap that cut right through

as well this picture does not show the sharp edges of that blue clamp that I believe had been the culprit

 

Hey guys, first post here.

I have spent countless hours reviewing the multiple threads beating this dead horse. I am also having issues with this 4WD system and have tried quite a few things the folks here have recommended but unfortunately have not been successful.

Basically my situation is that when I put the truck into 4HI, the transfer case actuator operates normally enabling the front drive shaft and the truck goes into 4HI WITH the 4WD light flashing. The truck is definitely in 4 because I can feel the drivetrain bind when turning. The only way I can get the truck out of 4HI is by turning off the ignition switch and turning the switch to 2HI.

So far I have removed the front diff actuator and inspected the internals, everything looks brand new unlike a lot of others that have posted. I cleaned the contacts, soldered the points for the motor and the switch both. I plugged the ADD back in and had someone operate the switch while I watched the actuator and it moves FINE. However like I mentioned, I can only get it to return to 2HI by shutting off the ignition and turning the truck back on. I did find a trigger wire that had been previously repaired, I cut the section out and re did it and its getting 12v with no issue now. To me this verifies that the front diff ADD is faulty and I would like to hear some ideas or thoughts that may further confirm this before I order a replacement $$$$$$. I know others have had a similar scenario and have solved it by performing what I've done but I'm still looking for a fix.