Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

Got my RatioTek shift kit today. Here are the install instructions...

 

It also came with a nice additional info packet for easy identification of parts and torque specs for every bolt...

 

Great instructions . I never did ask if you found sediment on your magnets ?
Was the transmission fluid starting to change from red to brown ?
I have never used the Ratio Tech kit , just the Trans-go along with the Sonnax kit .
With this said , I dont see an issue combining both kits . The Sonnax kit restores and improves the hydraulic integrity of the valve body
and the ratio tech kit firms up the shift points and does a partial correction of the converter application .
Thats going to make one tough valve body

Did you take down the Sonnax instructions ?
I dont see them listed anywhere ?

 

I have to wonder how doing this compares to what IPT does for upwards of $600.

 

Did you get your upgrades done yet? @Jeffy Bobby

 

Yeah I finally finished it. It took a bit longer since I didn't order enough ATF the first time around.. or more drained out after flushing and having the pan off overnight than figured. It's sooo much nicer than stock. After the initial battery disconnecting for the relearn and taking it easy / checking level, I disconnected it again for another relearn and drove it aggressive. It's shifts fast and solid at higher RPMs now. I love it. It's ready to race when I want it to, but not too aggressive when just cruising.
During the install I noticed a couple things. The Sonnax zip kit comes with a new Boost Valve Kit and Accumulator Control Plunger Valve Kit which didn't mix well with the RatioTek shift kit. The RatioTek kit comes with springs that are calibrated for the stock Boost Valve Kit. When you put the stock boost valve next to the Sonnax boost valve, the face of the valve where the springs sit on the Sonnax are ... if i remember correctly.. like .074" taller than the stock boost valve, so the springs would compress more than designed too. So after calling the RatioTek help line, and getting a call back from Steve Younger himself (the man that designed the kit) he said just go with the stock boost valve.


We also talked a little about other kits. He said he would never ask somebody to hand ream a valve body (as is required with some other kits), and that it should only be done in a milling machine. He said the RatioTek kit is all you need for a shift kit. It increases clutch clamping power by 38% with the HD kit, which he was glad I went with being I'm running 33" tires and off-roading. He also does not recommend turning up the SLU for correcting shutter for reasons that went over my head. He started explaining why and how doing so causes some other side effect but yeah.. the engineer talk was a little much for me at that point. He instead recommends just adding Dr. Tranny Instant Shutter Fixx. I also wasn't sure about using the Sonnax Accumulator control plunger valve kit vs the stock one. They looked a little different but If I remember right it did have the same length measurement at the spring face as the stock valve, but I went with the stock one since the Sonnax's outer body was not anodized and would thus wear faster, and because the RatioTek was designed to be used with stock parts so I played it safe.
@gearcruncher There was some fine sediment on the magnets but not too much or alarming. The fluid was a darker red but not brown or burnt/varnished looking. All my solenoids and valves looked and felt tight with minimal wear on the anodized coating. Haven't had another 'somebody just rear ended me shift' at a stop yet and no trouble codes so I'm thinking maybe.. just maybe there might have been a small piece of something that could have jammed the SLT from operating for a moment before freeing up again. I didn't replace it because I did bench test it and it passed at 5.7ohms at 70* and the internals looked fine. I did ask Steve at how many miles do the SLT's start to act up, and he said typically 120-140K miles. I'm only at 75k so figured I'd throw it back in and see what happens. If it acts up again I'll know what to do. Thanks again for your help with this.

 

Hey @Jeffy Bobby,
I am also following your upgrade and choose to use the same kits. How did you purchase your ratiotek kit? They are based out of AU and can not purchase through their website. Did you email them or find thr kit through somewhere else?

 

http://www.oregonperformancetransmi....mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RTK-RT-A750E-HD

The Lubegard I got off Amazon.. like $10 a quart. Took 15 quarts but I also added a cooler and flushed with the pan off and let it drip overnight so I went thru more than I thought I would. I poured all the new ATF into a new 5 gallon bucket and ran vinyl hose up to the new filter's pickup and sealed with gorilla tape. Bought a large rectangular feed bin at Coastal Farm Supply for draining into but still made a mess. Don't rev the engine when flushing or holy poop stain you'll make an even bigger mess. The bucket is like 11 gallons or so. Might buy an old pan at a salvage yard to use for next time if I do it again this way, which I think is the best way.. but maybe I'm wrong about that. Id drill a hole in the salvaged pan for the feed hose to slip thru and maybe drill another 1/2" or two next to the drain plug for easy draining and make less of a mess.

 

I don't see the point of a pan off flush, I've had good success flushing two or three quarts at a time through the cooler lines, just stop and refill the pan after you've got two or three quarts out of the cooler line by letting the engine idle. At idle you'll get about a quart out of the cooler line every 7 seconds.

 

It was my OCD flaring. The pump is the first point of pickup, so I wanted to start there in one shot and let the old get completely pushed out without chance of any getting sucked up again. More work and mess but whatever. I put 11 quarts in the 5 gallon bucket after the valve body rebuild and additional cooler install for the flush. Also flushed the Radiator and factory cooler with Kooler Kleen beforehand.

 

Great write up Jeffy Bobby Not bad for a new member !!
Good call making a telephone call and getting to speak to the " MAN " himself on the phone .
Steve younger knows more about valve bodies and their associated circuits than I ever will .
This is what those guys do all day every day .I didnt know he split with his fathers company ?
Never even realized he was part of the " shift kit " family . I have used Gill Younger kits for years and years and I swear I have never rebuilt a transmission without using their kits .
The Ratio Tech link I posted in the write up was listed only because I found it in a search a few years ago and decided to add it to the information . Never thought anyone would try it .
The sonnax product is also well known . If you had higher mileage on your truck , I am positive you would have seen more wear . Usually the end plugs with the o-rings drop straight into place ...no reaming .
Glad you are happy with the results .
Thanks for posting back .

 

@gearcruncher "I didnt know he split with his fathers company ?" - I read something to that tune on another forum but who knows for sure the details. I do know he favors RatioTek shift kits over other brands of shift kits, He didn't say much about the Zip kit. The reaming part was for the Transgo shift kit. I do think the Zip Kit sure is a lot of coin for the parts you get. If I was to do it over I'd see if I could get the parts individually and get everything but the Boost Valve Kit and Accumulator Control Plunger Valve Kit (steps 8 and 9) since I didn't use those anyways.

 

Okay, sorry you two but i really need some help with this one. While trying to source a donor low mileage valve body for my A750E for my 4.0 2008 2WD. I found it to be just as much as a used trans. Does anyone know Why do they sell these transmissions in year groups of 2008-2011 and 2012-2015 For the 6cyl 2wd trucks??? Is it a change in the rear tail housing, a sensor...? I'm after it for the valve body mainly. I thought the a750e were all the same... but it seems not for these years I've pointed out earlier. Can anyone chip in with some knowledge on this matter?

 

Transmission fitment by year:
2005-2007,
2008-2011,
2012+

If you are looking for a valve body , 2008 - 2011 works . Youve got 3 years of second hand transmissions that will fit .
Dont be afraid to call around to a couple transmissions shops . They have these valve bodies in storage
I am not sure what the difference is between years .
I suggest asking ATSG . Thats where I go when I need help
https://www.atsg.us/atsg/

 

Having a hard time sourcing one I can go look at in person for that year group. Yea, i'll give them a ring, thanks.

 

Ask these guys

 

I think there's a difference in the valve body, some of the years use different size connectors I think.
http://www.valvebodypros.com/a750.html

 

@gearcruncher your thoughts on Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF fluid.

Thank you.

 

Thanks Jeffy!! So if I just do the RatioTek HD kit I should notice the difference right away or is it more of a subtle impact?

Gonna chat with my local tranny shop and see when I can get them to do this for me and how much $$ it will cost. Initially they aren't excited about doing this for me since they said they usually see minimal changes for shift kits on electronic trans and people aren't happy with $$.

I've got a S/C and hoping to get rid of some of the lag in between shifts that feels like it may be slipping but i think its just the eco factory shift point settings.

 

You'll notice the difference right away. Even leaving your driveway at a normal pace you'll feel the snappy quick firm shifting. Pretty sure your local tranny shop will change their mind after test driving. Also, I remember learning on other forums that a mechanical shift kit is a better way to go over an electrical reprogramming type.