What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

You are needing/using a 2"x10' flatbar or 2"x10" flat bar? If its the 10" use a straight edge, scribe, and 4" dia cutting wheel.

 

It's a rear bumper yes. It's not channel it's just a cut tube. I would love to have it flush and had thought about welding the inside but I don't think I can get weld deep enough (not to mention I'm no professional) so what I wanted to do was cut the 2" plate down to about 1-3/4" so that I have a Sort of "bevelled" weld on the outside. I don't have any fancy equipment here either lol I think I'm gonna see if I can either find 1-3/4" plate or cut the length with an angle grinder and a scrap piece as a guide to keep the cut square. It needs to be pretty solid so any sort of tack welds would be out of the question as far as I know. Thanks for all the advice

 

It's a 2"x10' but the actual lengths I'm using are like 18" per side or so I believe

 

Don't need an alignment and yes it's very straightforward but you may need a press. Don't get anything but OEM of course. A lot of guys say to replace them at around 100k

 

I think I get ya.

If it was me welding those together, knowing the band iron is thicker than the tube steel, I would cut a strip 2 1/4" wide. Apply most of your weld media to the band iron. Its thicker and will resist burn thru much better. When done, grind the 1/8" overhang and weld down to match the flat of the bumper. It won't be very noticeable unless you kneel down and sight down the length of the bumper. (who would do that?)

 

Also another note, I suggest stich welding so you don't warp the material to bad.

 

Shoot me a message when you get out here. Great camping on the local mountain about 1.5-2 hours away (flagstaff)

 

Beveling the flat bar allows you to keep a nice straight edge, putting a fillet weld in allows you to keep that 90* edge. No cutting except for length. Then flapper wheel the slight convex high of the weld down and done. Clean edge solid weld.

 

wow great idea, hadn't thought of this!

 

@RedManRocket
Catch up with the man

 

I bet if you pull that rubber cover up and push on the ball joint boot there will be no resistance, thus meaning they are out of grease and metal on metal. Did you try the pry bar test?

 

Other than counting on "melt through" you're on the right track haha

 

Why do I bother posting on here, always at work when I read through these real quick and can't keep up with everyone else

 

Mine broke too, when I replaced all that! Also, I had my cam sensor hanging to the side and something broke it ! Lucky Amazon had OEM's. Now it's all

 

x2 this will work the best for ya just remember to skip around don't run a continuous be down the whole thing it'll warp the hell out of it with all that heat

 

This is a good example. Just remember, bevel does not need to be perfectly 45 degrees. Grind a bit of an angle and weld it.

We are welders, not finish carpenters.

 

Grinder and paint will make a welder what he ain't

 

a picture is worth a thousand words...nice work Adude

 

That's some fine looking dogs! check out this TW thread...your pic will fit perfectly - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-dogs.2844/

The plasma cutter is on my list...I've looked at the knock off china model at harbor freight just can't pull it yet. I took a summer welding class at the local FFA Chapter and had access to the Lincoln plasma cutter, that was a mistake! After seeing what it'll do, so cleanly, without needing to grind edges....You can turn out high quality cuts with the plasma... made propane tank grills, weight racks, grill tables, replaced bush hog decks...

 

I need that on a T-shirt!!