Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I've combed through this thread and looked at a lot of builds but not seeing what I'm looking for. I'm set on having my aux battery in the bed where I have a removable platform/storage. I have purchased a CTEK D250S rather than a MLR or solinoid which I intend to also locate in the bed as some day I will connect my PV panel to it.

What I'm looking for examples (pictures preferably) of are the way/path people are routing battery cable from the alternator/starter battery back to the inside of the bed. I would hate to go through the firewall into the cab only to exit the cab(interior) to get into the bed. It would seem running cable and wire loom to the bottom of the engine compartment and underneath the cab makes sense. Are people using boots, cable glands or just grommets to go through the composite bed floor or sidewall?

 

I don't have dual batteries, but I just used a grommet to penetrate through the bed.

 

What I would do in your case is try to make a "copy" of this using your CTEK D250S (since this product is only available in Australia, but you can easily build your own using the individual components):


Then the install is buried in this more in-depth educational video. (I recommend watching it, really explains a lot about the whole technology, but needs an hour of your time.)


As for me, I will run the wires down from the engine bay, along the frame (path the brake line takes) and then out the bed over the cubbies. I'm following this for inspiration:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/12v-bed-power-powerwerx-panel-installation.452432/

 

Run the cable down to the frame then run the cable along the frame to the bed, then drill a hole in the bottom of the bed and route the cable through the hole.

 

This very was helpful in giving me ideas for how to get things together in a semi-permanent install which is my goal. I love the idea of using a fused connection with Anderson Plugs from alternator to the input on the CTEK controller so that I can always have the cables routed without needing to keep the battery and controller on-board full-time.

 

I’m in need of some suggestions here for my setup.

I have (2) 34m AGM deep cycle batteries I have already installed but I need help deciding on the isolator or charge controller.
I like the idea of the DC-DC mppt charge controller shown in the kickass videos above but that is very expensive. I would like to stay less than $200.
Also I plan to add a 120w solar panel to keep batteries charged while running a 65qt fridge for long camping trips. (Additional cost)
I have a winch that I only use when the engine is running, so I think it would be best to have both batteries connected while the engine is running so the winch can draw power from both batteries. (Does that make sense?)

I am thinking that a simple solenoid to disconnect the batteries from each other when the engine is off should work, correct?
Is it possible to modify alternator to provide 14v of charging?

 

possible to alter the output to 14v by changing location of the voltage sensing wire..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boden-build-2015-dclb-4x4.362640/page-3#post-10274246

 

There are other possibilities for DC-DC chargers that won't break the bank. Assuming one of your batteries is the starter battery, then this could work for you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CTEK-D250S-...UT-/162586167960?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

The only drawback compared to say.. RedArc, is its 20 Amps vs 25 Amps.

 

@OneFastGeek , which batteries did you use for this? My Oem battery just died and am looking to upgrade.

 

I'm running the Dirty Parts dual battery kit and Ive been looking for a OEM style switch that'll replace the bulky 3 position toggle switch. Has anyone come across a dual pole dual throw switch that'll fit in the factory slots?

-B

 

what's the opinion on this Cole Hershee 200amp Smart isolator?

$170 Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator 200A

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-...=1507477369&sr=8-61&keywords=battery+isolator

 

Sorry, didn't see this till today. Optima Batteries 8071-167-FFP D51 YellowTop

 

I posted this elsewhere but never got a response.

I am running dual batteries, mainly so I can jump my main if I have a dead battery when camping out in the backcountry. I want to hook up an auxiliary Blue Sea fuse block, to keep the wiring clean for accessories. Should this be wired to the main starting battery or to my auxiliary battery? Anyone have any suggestions?

 

It depends on how you set things up and when you want to use your accessories. Generally people setup a starting/Winching battery for truck on accessories and a house/aux battery for truck off accessories .

 

^ Yup.

I've got everything that was tied to my stock battery still that way, and all the lights and extra power pull from the aux

 

That is what I was thinking, run it to the aux. My auxillary battery is on the passenger side of the engine but my Pelfrybilt fuse box mount is near the starting battery. Is there any thing to be concerned with having the fuse block on the other side of the engine bay so far from the auxillary battery?

 

Run appropriately sized cable from the aux battery to the fuse block, and you'll be fine.

 

Great thread! So many useful things

 

And put a fuse between the aux battery and fuse block. Put the fuse as close to the aux battery as possible.

 

Hello everyone I posted this earlier in the 2nd gen group and didn't get a reply and while i'm on a short timeline figured I would post it here.

Hello,
First off let me start by saying I went down a 4-6 hour rabbit hole last night researching dual battery setups vs single. I'm the type of guy that likes to plan and think things out but unfortunately my battery took a sh*t yesterday which is forcing me to rush. I plan on running a ARB fridge soon as well as a winch and compressor, I will of course eventually go to a full dual because of accessories i'm going to be running and the ability to jump myself if the need arises.

This is what i'm considering buying for the now situation though. the Pelfreybilt Battery cage which comes up a lot around here. I'm also looking at switching to the 31M Optima, because i'm in Montana and the other compatibly batteries aren't as available that would work in the battery cage.

Will my standard leads work switching my 2009 Tacoma Group 27 leads over? (I realize this might be a stupid question however I do not mix with electrical)

Should I change any other components out?

Things I should know about a Optima Maritime blue top in Montana Winters?

Will my stock alternator do OK will the increase in Battery Size and charging? Is this going to have any negative effect on the battery?

Thanks as always for the help as you guys are bad for the bank account but good at helping me not mess things up.