Free Wheel Manual Hubs Conversion Kit

hardest part is seperating the cv from the axel. just watch a youtube video.. spend 10 bucks on the pipe from Lowes..

 

So that part list in the OP is all you need to attempt this? Along with the know how?

 

Without patents someone could just buy this kit for 1250, copy it sell it for 1150 and your out and the new guy profits.

Just hope they give you some notes in their ad as inspiration according to @ukaboy

That's what @Coot83 is kinda saying.

 

pretty much.... mine as well get a set of new boots for the inner cv side.. cv grease... the hubs... with applicable cone washers...studs.. nuts..
while your there mine as well replace brake pads and change out diff oil.

 

Already done ;-)

 

Inner cv boot is included.
I'm including grease too, just not in pic.

 

maybe i'm dum n' stuff but this converts our front end to locked via this kit?

 

i would say your package is a great deal. I'm waiting for the data on a truck with 35's and an arb that is heavy...
unless you wanna give out set of cv's for testing!

 

It allows you to disconnect your CV axles from the wheels, sparing them unnecessary wear. Also creates less drag, thus better MPG.

 

Lol

 

Ill definitely be ordering a pair of these shortly

 

Sub'd for upcoming Black Friday sale

 

May be a dumb question but does this change the strength of any of these components? Stronger or weaker?

 

I like the kit. I wont be buying at the moment due to the $$ though.

 

Just out of curiosity, is the cage/outer cv the same strength as OEM outer cages or ?

I seem to break cages and if this is stronger with the added benefit of a disconnect I could see the value for my personal setup.

 

I can't speak of the strength/material of OEM cages, but I specified a chromoly race/cage/ball assembly on these. That doesn't mean you can't break these though lol
What's your setup like, why you think you keep breaking them?

 

I know partially its due to the lack of steering stops with my LT setup (+2) so its easy to put them into a bind with no mechanical stop. I am gentile on the loud pedal and prefer creeping through things, and typically am pretty conscious of steering angle when I have the ability to. The other possibility is that I push it through things that stress an IFS setup..

I was just curious during your R&D if the material strength of the OEM was tested and these were verified of being same quality or better. The other question is if one wanted to keep a spare, would you be willing to sell just an end minus the full kit so we could build up a spare axle for trail repair?

 

When you say that you push things, what exactly do you due when crawling? I assume aggressive angles when approaching obstacles?

 

I've added a spare joint kit to the OP. It's doesn't include the steering knuckle components, as you'd install to whatever is already there.

 

Pretty much that, sometimes the line goes not as planned and I end up in a spot that requires steering angles that stress them. It is also possible that since I can only build from used OEM axles with being +2 ( I suppose I could buy brand new, but that gets $$$ in a hurry ) that I have sh*t luck and get weak ones.

Copy, good call.