What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

timing belt part deux, so far everything "sounded" good. I revved it a bit and didn't hear the chatter. I now have to put everything else back together and bleed the coolant again. Once it warms up I'll give it gas and if it does it again, I'm burning it down.

 

Well from what I've read the shaft that lubes the t case is on the transmission siDE and not the driveshaft side which Mena you're not lunging the bearings that's are spinning...

 

Etrailer.com they got a great selection. Match up to number of axles on trailer. Also good tech support.

 

Hold up. Do you get the sticker from bob? Because I've messaged him a few times and no response.

 

Curious how much everything ends up running you, I’ve been kicking the idea of replacing them around, but need to save some money for my second timing belt service.

I just hit 170k on my factory bearings and they still spin fine enough to drive comfortably, but they definetly don’t spin a easily as they could.

 

Yeah I was looking on there, seems like a good selection. The Tekonsha P3 looked nice, I won't tow anything requiring more than 2 axles with my cruiser so no worries there. Wish they made adapter harnesses so I didn't have to wire my own, crusier is too old to have one.

 

cost me 110 for the fronts

 

Did my front suspension today!
- New oem otre's
- New oem lbj's
-Built Right Fabrication uca's
-King extended travel coilovers
Everything went very smooth until I decided to check the torque on my passenger side top hat, I snapped a bolt inside my brand new kings! Does anyone have any good ideas as to how I can get that sucker out of there? Also what should the top hat bolts be torqued at?

 

Looks like a nice setup! Don't forget to get an alignment... Bummer on the snapped bolt, there should be zero tension on it now so it'll be easy to spin out with an easy out or similar screw/bolt extractor, just make sure you drill a little starter hole so the easy out doesn't try to walk out on ya. I don't reef down on those bolts, they aren't under massive tension because the spring pushes up, they are there to locate and keep the shock from falling out under full droop. I'd read to see what King or Icon, or even SAW says in their instructions if you can't get it by feel. The top hat is aluminum so usually the threads in that would give before the bolt does, that's the weird part to me, that was a nice zinc coated high grade bolt. It should have ripped the threads out of the alum first before shearing off.

 

Parts and labor, or just labor?

 

Thank you, yeah I was going to try an extractor I've just never used them on aluminium before. I had planned to get an alignment tomorrow, but now I might be fighting with that bolt instead.

 

Would Kings that need rebuilt cause a rougher ride? I'm guessing the answer is yes.

How much would a guy expect to pay to get them rebuilt?

Probably should just start a new thread I guess.

 

Pull the coil/shock assembly first so you have room to work on it.
Small punch and a hammer, light tapping, might just walk it right out. There shouldn't be any torque on the remaining threads, just maybe a burr, so to speak, at the point of break that will need to rise above the female threads. Might spin out from there.

 

Yes and no, if completely blow it'll get much harsher. It'll almost just sort of feel floaty if the charge is low or the IFP is leaking past its seals. Do they make a squelching noise when you bounce the front of the truck a bit.

 

They aren't leaking as far as I can tell. I've never seen any fluid on the shock body. The drivers side squeaks like crazy.

As far as I know the shocks haven't been rebuilt, I'm the second owner of them and have put probably 25k on them.... shock abuser I know....

 

Tap it lightly from the top to try and get it out the bottom or tap it lightly from bottom?

 

He means tap it in the direction of loosening it, from the edge with a pointed tool.

 

^^This right here. Tap from the top where it's broken.

 

Cool that makes sense, I was over thinking it. Hopefully I have enough bolt sticking out to mig weld a washer and nut on there and get it out that way.

 

Question, A)what type of bolt and coating is it, ie galv zinc stainless. B) is the housing aluminum and does it have never seize on the bolt if so.