What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

No clue on the type of bolt or coating, yes the housing is aluminium, and no anti seize on there.

 

Stainless will corode and seize the bolts in aliminum, straight isnt much better. Using never seize on bolts going into aluminum allow you to removed the bolt and not the threads.. that looks like a standard grade 8 zinc hardware bolt to me. Like Zane mentioned.

I have lots of wall charts this is one.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

That says the threads are galled and seized up on the bolt, or the bolt bottomed out. In my experiences Heat "welding" will expand the bolt and take more threads making it harder. Aluminum has a higher flash melting point then steel. But when you breach the melting point its got a lower liquid state. So it takes more amps to start melting aluminum, but you drop down temp to keep it rolling.

I would skip the welding and use a tap and easy out. If it doesnt want to go, drill a hole.in the bolt and use dust off to freeze or contract the bolt for removal without heat. Or drill 3 small holes and one large center to let it collapse on itself.

Your type of hardware matters for a application. Good luck man.

 

All OME...881's on the front and they seem to be fine with the weight of the new bumper. I was concerned that I may have to upgrade to 882 or 883.

 

Got some shots of the truck

 

Parts and labor

 

After installing my CV axles, I have come to realize now I have a leak from the passenger side. Wasn't leaking before, is that the diff seal or is there something else I should look for? If so, any have the part number handy?

 

I'd do it yourself, if all threads aren't stuck to bad takes no more than a couple hours.

 

The PreRunner I was looking at buying is a no go at this time. The guy won't budge on the price despite it being for sale for damn near six months. I offered him $500 less than the asking. He wouldn't even counter

I did grease my driveshafts today and hosed down the underside with some fluid film

 

Got her back on the ground finally! Ass end sure looks high with these Dakars.

 

Double check that it is seated all the way in. I had that problem. After a late night of putting everything back together the next day I had a small leak. After taking it out and then cleaning everything up there have been no leaks after re-seating it.

 

Well I was able to get some time today and put in the rear end with 5.29s and ARB. Now front and rear are matching. I still need to hook up the ARB lockers. Only driven a short bit on the street so far I like them. I have 295/75r16 on and at GPS 75 I am turning 3000 RPMs with my speedo saying 90mph. I also have 315/75r16s that I need to put on and then

 

They aren't to hard to rebuild yourself man. I'd do it first with someone that knows what you are doing and after that you should be good to do it on your own. And as far as getting them rebuilt price depends and also depends on if someone local to you is gunna do it or if you ship them out. If you can't find anyone local, a couple well known ships that youbcould send em to is downsouth motor sports, dialed up shock prep or D.C. Shock services. That being said I'd still say it's worth it to try it yourself.

 

Got my bed bar / toolbox finished. Still have to cover the box in the same material that's on the inside of my camper though.

 

Adding HP

 

Fully installed the jerry can holder I made:

 

Get the 33 tooth speedo gear.

 

Thanks. I was going to start searching that info. I knew I saw talk of it some time ago.

 

Is the 33tooth speedo gear for 488s/33s also?

 

Yes

 

Awwwww, shit!

Post up some pics as you do your cutting. I'd be interested to see how much you end up taking off.