Long Travel BS Thread

I'm sure driving style, brands, temperature and how low you air down all have an impact on if they hold or not. Just like anything in this sport, there is not always a one size fits all answer.

I may end up with a set of real beadlocks as it's hard to justify spending $400+ a wheel for traditional wheels...

 

@tacomgee and everyone...
When you did your cv swap did you replace the snap ring on the birfield joint side? Pn? Mine looks katywhompus
Also looking for Pn on the little tin dust shield for the diff side. Found the spindle side Pn.
Love, Ryan

 

I got my Method 105 beadlocks for under $1200 for a set of 4. Really not too bad... Never had a loose bolt on the lock ring when I checked torque, they're on my daily driver and they balanced excellent with my 35" Mickey Thompsons and 8oz of beads.

 

Y'all seen the fiberglass fender/ bedside group buy right!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/feeler-advanced-fiberglass-group-buy.511408/

 

If you hit a rock at 60mph it doesn't matter what wheel your running. You don't need forged wheels on a Toyota unless your racing IMHO. But I get the cool factor. I did it myself when I put Walker Evans beadlocks on my 06 Tacoma.

I ran Methods on my last LT truck because I had 6 of them and I beat the shit out of it. They were cheaper to replace.

I agree that running cheap cast wheels on a 6000+lbs Raptor prerunner is dumb because they can't handle the weight or forces when that pig lands.

 

Maybe this one?

 

Need help. Revalved my shocks to fox chart COMP #120. Now the stover nut doesn't Thread on all the way to lock properly

 

Remove the washer that is riding on the nut.

 

Figured it was that but didn't want to put it together and find out that was a no no haha. Thanks for watching out

 

Anyone got an e-locker 3rd they want to sell. Grenaded mine trying to be a jeep today... even a core would be better than nothing. Haven't pulled mine yet but wanna do it all at once really. Would do the Currie F9 but not ok the budget at the moment...

 

Hit up this guy - he said he could get me pretty much anything within a week or so.

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/d/toyota-truck-and-suv/6318404623.html

 

I texted him, thank you!

 

You have 2 washers under the stover nut, I've always used one. If you're not in a rush, why not use a new stover nut?

 

I want to glass in some aluminum louvers off of ebay on my fiberglass hood. What's the cheapest way to get good materials for fiberglass - ebay? Amazon? I'd like to add a good amount of reinforcement to the inside of it and I have another project for the bedsides I bought as well so I don't want to buy an overpriced little kit.

 

Try a hobby shop and get a sheet of fiberglass... I used to race giant scale rc's and we went thru a lot of fiberglass

 

I just buy glass mat from the hardware store. Don't remember that being expensive at all. The surface area I imagine to glass/bondo the hood won't be too much for the louver. The bondo will probably cost more than the glass and resin.

 

Your local automotive paint supply store should have everything you would need. Like what was said above, the bondo and finish supplies will probably cost more than the supplies for the glass work.

 

Thanks a lot - I didn't even think of checking HD:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo-1-qt-All-Purpose-Fiberglass-Resin-20122/202077790

$30 for a good amount. Ready to get this on.



I want to add these to keep things a little cooler when I get my s/c:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pair-Stra...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

oh hey that's him!

 

You could always attach them mechanically, with rivets or screws.