FIrst Tacoma! 2000 and I'm happy

Got my first tacoma the other day. Super stoked.
2000 2.7 4x4 197k.
Besides changing all the fluids right away I am going to replace the shocks and struts.
That has lead to some issues though. The tacoma has TRD stickers on it but it is the I4, which my reading threads on here means it does NOT have a locking rear diff. I looked on the rear diff and saw no actuator. Boo. I pulled model numbers off the rears (737949) which seem to relate to Gabriel 63494. I hear praises of Bilstiens 5100 left and right on here but also found a good deal on some KYB Gas-A-Just (KG9024). p.s. I don't really have a question here but if this information seems wrong please let me know.

I do have a question on my front struts. I was looking at front coils to go with the Gas-A-Justs and am unsure if I have the "off-road package" or not. I read various threads on here about the TRD on model year 2000 and have not come to any solid consensus. Some say "no locking diff=no TRD" others say I4 doesn't have locking diff but still TRD due to upgraded suspension. That leaves me at a blank on what struts/coils I need for front.

All that to say I am excited to finally have a tacoma!


Front struts: rust isn't as bad as picture indicates.

 

The TRD package was offered on 1st gen 4cyl Tacomas for a couple years, they aren't common but they're out there. They didn't have the e-locker unfortunately, which is the most common and biggest difference between TRD and non-TRD. Basically you got the same suspension and trim as the v6 TRD trucks but without the locker.

 

Well that's too bad about the locker for me. So, If I look at suspension for the v6 it would be compatible?

 

Should be, it all bolts on the same way. The 4cyl may have come with lighter springs but I doubt it. Bilstein 5100s are a good upgrade over stock and allow for height adjustment (0 - 2.5") if you ever wanted to lift it.

 

How does the adjustment work? Seems to me that, all things equal, the switching between 0" and 2.5" would screw up drive line angles.
If I went with bilsteins is there other mods that are necessary? The KYB has me intrigued as it is cheaper and I have heard good things. Also I don't plan on making my Tacoma an off-road rig ( I already have one).

 

Staying within 2.5" of lift of stock keeps driveline angles within comfortable ranges for the u joints and cv's.

 

Good to know. Almost seems too good to be true!

 

Most builds I like on here stay low and wide - here's one of my favorites that takes that concept pretty far - further than is practical to most. The point is that with shorter tires you can stay pretty close to stock and get good articulation w/o rubbing - but if you want 35's well, gotta start cutting

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mrbeggins-04-tacoma-build.269822/

You can upgrade that 8.4" diff to a multitude of lockers and it's a good starting point - lsd all the way to air locker depending on what you want to invest.

The trucks are the same between the V6 and 4 banger minus the driveshafts, trans, ecu / wiring harness, and (obviously) engine.

 

That looks super nice! I'm not sure I will go that far. My Tacoma will be for daily driving /light off-road. I have my Samurai for my more extreme off-road adventures.

 

Lots of good ideas in the trucks for that here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/1st-gen-builds-1995-2004.102/

 

It seems with Bilsteins that I would need to add a leaf on the rear pack... would that not raise my back end no matter how I adjust the shock?

 

Yeah shocks don't add lift - look at 3 leaf add-a-leaf packs at Wheeler's Offroad, Toytec Lifts, All-Pro Offroad, Headstrong Offroad, and Down South Motorsports.

Wheeler's has the least expensive good 3 leaf pack: If you're looking for oem parts (not for shocks / springs - not worth it) but for anything else, @gunny1005 on here works at Camelback Toyota and can get you discounted prices on oem parts

 

I like discounts!
I was thinking of doing shocks/struts first then eventually replace leafs. Just not sure I want it lifted much if at all.

 

If you stay 275/75 with 15-16" wheels you should be fine with minimal 1-1.5" lift. Your u joints and mpg will be happier too. Just get shocks that will work with what you have for leafs now and what you might like to go with later on. Calling any of those vendors will help you hear what options will work for your wants / needs.

I like that camper shell too - gonna need some more poser pics up on here

 

I think it may be lifted a bit in the rear (maybe leveled?). I don't know Tacoma's too well but it seems that way to me based on distance from top of tire (30x9.5) to top of wheel well.
I'll get some pics up soon for sure. Waiting to get it road ready and going to take it out for some pics.

 

Just take pics of the leaf pack and the distance to the top of the wheel well like you mentioned, but mention your tire size too.

 

To get any questions like that answered quickly just post them in the "what I did to my Tacoma today first gen edition" thread in the stickied section in the first gen section. It's got a lot of knowledgeable members posting each night (and day while they should be working lol).

 

Thanks! I will get pics of the leaf pack tomorrow! Tires are 30x9.5 though.
Here is a picture of the rear wheel well...

 

I did a compression test last night. 150-140-125-135. I did a wet test on cylinder 3 and it jumped up to the 145-150 range. I really don't want to re-ring it. I haven't owned it long enough to know if it is using oil but the plugs don't look too bad. The picture shows the cylinders from left to right. Number three looks dirty but the electrode isn't fouled. Granted it is well rounded.

 

Welcome to TW!