Rack replaced, ball joint question.

Replaced the steering rack with a unit from Detroit Axle. The rack looks just like the OEM part thought the out tie-rods are a bit slimmer, seems like good quality parts though. Anyway, the left ball-joint worked perfectly, hit torque and the key-hole aligned fine but the right side didn't hit torque until the key-hole is above the castle nut. There is wasily more thread showing above the knuckle. Is this an issue? Should I drop that ball-joint and look it over? This side was loose when I pulled the rack, the ball-joint wasn't pressed into the knuckle so I wondering if it may be slightly egged out allowing the new bj to press higher into the knuckle?
I'm open to suggestions on how to proceed.

 

Picture please? The castle slot is below the cotter pin hole?

 

I know I once put the tie rod nut on the balljoint. Both were the same thread but one is a deeper nut.

 

I'd post a picture but I dumped PB and haven't migrated to another host yet. But yeah, the nut slot is below the hole enough that the key wouldn't contact the nut for a turn probably.

New castle nuts came with the new rods (I had initially thought that too).

 

Are the holes drilled the same if you count the threads up from the bottom/boot?

 

To the right of "Post Reply" is "Upload A File" Upload your picture there.

 

Hey that must be new.

Both castle nuts torqued to 67ft/lbs
Here is the good side.


and the bad?

 

almost seems that the "good side" is not far enough into the knuckle. looks like the boot is more expanded than the passenger side?

 

That ain't right. Have you compared both sides of the rack for uniformity in the length and girth (get your head outta the gutter)? Or maybe a crack in the knuckle on the bad side that is allowing the shaft to sink too deep (see my prior suggestion)?

 

It's probably a manufacturing defect and the threaded portion of the "bad" side is just too long. I would look at getting another new end. Just to cover this, it's my opinion one should never stack washers to make up any difference to fit the cotter pin into the castle nut. Too much chance for something to go wrong. The other thing is the knuckle is bad. I would give everything a good look over.

 

I can pop these back out and not have an issue with re-use right? If so I'll just leave it together long enough to flush the system and then drop the bj's out to compare them and check that knuckle.
Thanks all, I appreciate the advice on this.

 

No problem reusing them. Just use caution around the boots and try not to mushroom the bolt hammering on it. Should come apart easy since it's brand new.

 

the only issues i can think of is the seat for the ball joint is stretched or it's the wrong tie rod. i say just put a grade 8 washer or 2 under the nut to space it.

 

Are those spindles the same? They look a little different, maybe check the thickness is the same on them. Looks close but hard to tell with just pictures

 

Pulled the LBJ's today and replaced them with Moogs, yeah I know but the price was right and they look/fit great. Anyway the Driver's side looked OEM and the Passenger side (the problem side) looked newer and powder-coated black. Also the tapered hole ( for the TRE BJ) was almost a millimeter larger than the older and new Moog parts. That explains that issue and I feel better not having the wonky BJ, thanks for all the replies.