What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

Waiting for my new coil overs to come in. Question, do they really settle much? if at all? Don't want to get alignment yet if they do...thanks

 

can I add a tuff country aal to stock rear suspension for xtra load capacity? or do I need to upgrade rear shocks?
thanks

 

How high can you raise the rear without having to buy new shocks? 2016 TRD off road 3.5

 

needa know this answer and only because ive been getting mixed answers....2017 dbl cab 4x4 trd....if I add a 2in leveling it in the front, would it come level or would I still have a back to front rake??

second with that 2in leveling kit for the front, am I able too run 275 70 17 without it rubbing?? please and thank you very much for your time and answer...

I am very greatful..

 

I have 2.5 front and 2 rear and it's only very slight rake. If you go only 2 front I think it will be slightly lower in rear. With 2.5 front I'm running 275/70/17 ko2 no rubbing but very close. Some tires are slightly larger than others so I can't guarantee another brand of same size won't rub.

 

With 2" lift in the front you will most likely have a bit of the "bro lean" or as you say, front to back rake. You should also install an add a leaf (AAL) or, even better, install a full OME Dakar leaf pack in order to avoid the reverse rake.

As far as the 275/70/17 rubbing issue... I have 2.5" of front lift and 2.75" of rear lift and have no rubbing. However, when I had a recent alignment done the tech adjusted the Castor to factory spec (2.7 on each side) and I had terrible rubbing on the cab mount. I had to take it back and have them increase the castor to 3+ in order to stop the rubbing. That said, your alignment will play a huge role in whether you have rubbing or not.

 

thanks guys Imma go with the bilsteins 5100 route seems to be a lot better in everybodys opinions...I appreciate the feed back

 

at what height are extended brake lines needed?

 

I believe if you lift more than 2.5” it is a good idea to go with extended break lines. If you won’t be flexing much or doing significant off roading you can get away without extended break lines. But if you plan on flexing much it’s always a good idea.

 

Great thread! Just have a few questions.

Ive got a full ADS kit (2.5 shocks with external reservoirs) with Total Chaos UCAs and an All-Pro leaf pack ill be installing pretty soon.
Is there anything else that you all might recommend doing as well?
I was considering doing the clamshell bushing replacement. Not sure if im missing anything else.

 

Quick question for you guys.

With Bilstein 6112 adjustable front shocks the coil that comes with them is approximately 14" long and has a 600# spring rate.

My question is can the 6112 be used at the lowest setting height with a 16.00"x 3.0" 700# coil spring in place of the ones provided?

In theory this is no different than running OME coils on 5100s at the lowest setting. You still achieve the desired lift without the preloading..... Am I correct or am I off in my thinking?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/eib-16003000700s

 

Great question! I would imagine they would work but then again I can not promise nor guarentee that they will work and how much lift you will get from that setup...

We personally do not recommend pairing up OME coil spring and Bilstein shocks here, yes they will work together just fine but they are not proven by manufacturer to work with each other.

 

Y'all mind doing some R&D?

Seems to me that it would work better than preloading the 600# coils to the upper couple of grooves. In the top groove under full compression it is pretty close to coil bind. Even with extensions on the bump stops.

I am going to have to change spring rates anyway because the 600# springs don't like the weight of the armor. I figured I'd ask if anyone has done this. Don't really want to upgrade to Fox or Kings with 700# springs.

 

Why not go 14"

Why not go with a 700lb 14" spring? Thats what I run on my ICONS with very little preload.

 

On the 6112 the 14" 600lb is to close to coil bind at full bump for my comfort when they are at the upper adjustment grooves. That is why I was wanting the longer coils at the lowest groove.

If I had a set of tradition coilivers that is the route I would go. Thanks for the insight.

 

I have a question. A while back, someone here said, it's not the shocks that gives the lift to the truck, it's the springs that gives the lift. Is this statement still true? Because my purchase depends upon it.
Thanks

 

correct, shocks do not lift the truck, springs do.

 

Great. I wanted softer shocks, not stiff ones. I am not going to off-road anywhere, my truck is a pavement truck.
So is it possible for me to use stock OR shocks with some longer/taller springs/coils to give the lift? Or do I need 'longer' shocks to go with 'taller' springs?
And if so, which springs/coils should I be in the market for? I am looking for approx 2" lift.

 

You will need longer shocks. Putting longer coils on the front would max out those shocks causing premature failure.

 

oh. crap. oh well. fine. somebody I know is selling his Bilstein 5100s for just $130 bucks. Just two of them, and if I buy those, which taller springs should I buy to give me the 2" lift?
And in the back, I do not want another leaf. I just want a block, and which block do I get?