I think I’m screwed?

Man or woman makes no difference. If they sold a vehicle that needed major work, than they were either dishonest or ignorant that there was an issue. The OP bought a vehicle with low mileage with no disclaimer there was major engine issues. Any buyer in this situation isn't thinking about a major engine rebuild around the corner and is assuming the vehicle is relatively mechanically sound.

If i sold a vehicle to somebody that ended up having a major issue, i'd make it right. I'd either buy it back or give them money for part of the repair. I wouldn't let that person get seriously screwed on a sale I made. What I don't like about how you're responding is it sounds like your faulting the OP more than the seller. The OP got screwed but you're defending the seller and pretty much saying, "Well, let the buyer beware. The OP should have got it inspected by a mechanic."

The fact that the seller has no legal obligation doesn't make it ok. This is a simple case of right and wrong. Is it right the OP gets stuck with the deal whether the seller knew of the engine issue or not? Absolutely not. It sounds like to me if you unknowingly sold a vehicle that needed major work, and the buyer brought it to your attention, you'd be fine letting the buyer get bent over.

OP, I really hope you at least try and bring this to the attention of the seller. If you're lucky, they're actually a decent person who was ignorant to the engine issue and will make it right with you.

 

And it sounds to me like you want to blame the seller for something they quite possibly didn't know about. What's that about?

So let's say you help this guy out with his compression issue. Then, 6 months later his ball joints fail and he comes running back to you and blames you (again) for selling him a "defective" used car, and demands you help him fix it again, because you helped him the first time. What do you do then? You've already set a precedent that you're going to help him fix his car. Do you give him some more money, buy him new ball joints, give him a loaner car?

Where do you draw the line? When does it actually become *his* car?

 

I'm done with this conversation. If you don't yet understand the point I'm trying to make from the many posts I've made on this thread, you'll never get it. I think you and I navigate through life by a different moral compass. I just hope the next used vehicle I buy isn't from someone like the OP bought from. Like I said before, I think there's a very good chance the seller knew the condition of the engine before they sold it and they were perfectly ok screwing somebody over. I could be wrong but that's my gut instinct when somebody buys a vehicle and very quickly discovers a major problem.

 

I understand your argument perfectly, I just happen to disagree with it.

 

this happened to me last year and a crack on the head was the problem on compression.

 

Hi,
My 2005 Toyota Tacoma with over 100,000 miles had oil in the head. I took it into the dealer, around 2009. The service manager stated that the head was warpped. They had never seen that. Even though it was out of warranty, my Toyota dealership (Round Rock Toyota in Austin, Texas) gave me a rental. The home office in Japan requested the part be sent to them to see why it warpped. They sent a new one back and the dealership installed it, no charge. Love Toyota! Anyway you might check with your dealership and see if they can fix it for free. Especially, if it wasn't your fault. Site my case. Jim

 

That’s what they ended up doing and finding the piston ring is indeed bad/warped. Looks like a new short block is what I’ll need.

 

Hey again - rather than tear apart your engine and possibly find it had a crack like the person above posted and I've found in other 5vz heads, I'd just get a salvaged engine and maybe keep the heads off your old truck and sell the block.

 

Man you got hooked up! It's nice to hear stories about dealerships that help their customers. I don't think that this case would end up the same way unfortunately since the truck is 20 years old. The problem he's having may have been from the age of the vehicle regardless of mileage on the drivetrain. I'm surprised that a 100k mile engine has this issue, but it being that old makes many things possible including neglect on previous owner's part possible. Welcome to TW too!

 

Unfortunately Tim we don't live in a world with a lot honest folks. I am with you on this one but there are those who just can't come clean about anything. I hope karma gets em..

 

++++Love!

 

These 12, 18, 24 point inspections that these repair shops do only catch whats on the outside of the engine, not inside. I can only say that when buying any auto to just ask the owner what he has done, see how many PO before the current owner had it, carfax ( even though it doesn't show much or isn't accurate ) and make the call on whether you can afford replacement of parts that are necessary to ensure you don't break down on the road. With the shit thats happening right now in the US being left alone on the road could turn dangerous.

 

It's looking like that what I'm going to have to do. The mechanic said it was leaking from the bottom end and that I'd need a short block. said to transfer over the parts needed after being machined. put on new gaskets and seals. Right now I'm working on finding all of the seals and gaskets I will need for the entire procedure. I may just go to Yota and see if they can give me the kits and little parts for the swap. Yotashop.com has a short block for $2k, where as yota quoted me twice that much.

If you have any recommendations for a textbook manual that would be awesome!

 

Man I'd still look for a salvaged engine - you can get a complete one with accessories for half of what that short block costs. Gasket kits are a couple hundred usually and the amount of time required to pull heads, reseal the heads, and all the related tasks will add on a couple days if you're not experienced at doing this sort of thing.

 

To give more detail on the transaction and what was said prior to purchasing. Seller stated "the check engine light in on from a misfire it had, but don't worry I've fixed that everything is tuned up. I think it's connected to the speedometer wiring." I then took it to a well respected mechanic in town to do a once over and he loved the truck and said he'd buy it if I didn't, the check engine light is most likely an O2 Sensor that went bad from the high altitude. Why I didn't insist on getting a diagnostic or a second opinion, don't know and will regret for some time. lesson learned.

However, the fact that I purchased the truck based on what this a**hole assured me of, and yet was completely not true, leads me to believe I have a case. This here is a Bill of Goods, so I'm going to try to get this guy to refund me, give me enough money to pay for a short block, or take his ass to court.

 

Hmm, wondering if it's a salvaged engine, will that make the truck have a salvaged title? Will there be any kind of machine work needed on the short block? Also, do you have any recommendations on where I could get one?

thanks @Dalandser !

 

Waste of time. You bought it used, as is.

Get another opinion on the repair....I’ve never heard of issues with the rings in the bottom end. My 350k mile 3RZ still had tension on the rings and crosshatch in the cylinder walls when I pulled it apart

 

Nope - nothing will change with the title. It's just a replacement part. car-part.com is a good place to check. Craigslist is my first go to but you need to know how to assess this stuff since there's no guarantees with anything you buy. A dismantler will give you a warranty period usually. If you buy a short block you won't have to have anything on it machined if it's from yotamasters although it wouldn't hurt to have a machinist's straight edge to test it with before spending tons of time transferring over your heads. What you really want is a low mileage long block aka full engine minus the intake, exhaust, and accessories (ac compressor, power steering pump, and alternator) although I got an engine with all of those for $850.

 

I'd say it's worth a try. this is my $6k not yours. thanks anyways

 

In another thread he said that a dealership did a compression test, but not sure if leak down test is what was done and got lost in translation. I've seen a scored cylinder wall, but I was surprised to not have it be a cracked head / leaky valve / warped head / regular old gasket fail as well.